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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I have a V2203 in a skid steer that I believe the lift pump went out. Can't I put an electric FP on it to make sure that's the issue?

What pressure?

Short story, son borrowed it and ended up putting fuel in that had a lot of water in it. It died within a few seconds after he started it.

I drained/flushed the tank, replaced the filter, primed the system and it ran fine for 3-4 hours then I parked it. It sat for a few months before I needed it again. When I cranked it, It started fine, reved up fine, and when I went to move it after idling for just less than a minute, it died and I can't get it to prime now (cracked injectors, no fuel while cranking, or running with WD40 thru intake).

New fuel filter, filled with fuel.
3/4 tank fuel (verified with measuring stick).
Good flow from fuel line to filter.
Replaced fuel line from tank to filter.
New line filter to lift just in-case the lines may have been bad allowing it to suck air.
Fuel shutoff converted to manual and returning to run position.

Thanks in advance.
 

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I think they have a fuel shutoff solonoid. If it runs with you putting fuel in the intake then thats probably the issue. My boss had a kubota skid steer (no idea what model.) He ran 12v to it and it would work. He never did track down the issue with wiring. He just ran a toggle switch to it.

Water might have just screwed up the solenoid.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I think they have a fuel shutoff solonoid. If it runs with you putting fuel in the intake then thats probably the issue. My boss had a kubota skid steer (no idea what model.) He ran 12v to it and it would work. He never did track down the issue with wiring. He just ran a toggle switch to it.

Water might have just screwed up the solenoid.
Thanks, should have added that I removed the shutoff solenoid a couple years ago. Manual shutoff with cable now, and it's returning to "run" position fine.
 

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Oh i also learned dont use your bosses skid steer. Bc of course the front axle seal decided to shit the bed and I was obligated to replace it.
 

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To answer your fuel pressure question, they vary, I see some running 4 psi, some 20. I like to see them around 7-10 at least. Low pressures are sometimes the pump, but the way the return fuel is setup there should be an orifice in the return line, some have it, some don’t. You’re not going to over pressure one ( but with that, don’t stick a EFI pump on it or anything crazy, it would run but you’d fry the pump ), and I’ve never seen an injection pump fail due to low fuel pressure.
 

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I agree with colt on the lift pump but if water made it into the injection pump it could be done, no lubrication in water.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
To answer your fuel pressure question, they vary, I see some running 4 psi, some 20. I like to see them around 7-10 at least. Low pressures are sometimes the pump, but the way the return fuel is setup there should be an orifice in the return line, some have it, some don’t. You’re not going to over pressure one ( but with that, don’t stick a EFI pump on it or anything crazy, it would run but you’d fry the pump ), and I’ve never seen an injection pump fail due to low fuel pressure.
Gotcha, thanks!

I was kinda leaning toward 5-7 psi with one of those vibrating pumps, just wasn't sure about over psi possibly damaging something in the inj pump. I'll grab a pump at the parts house (maybe this weekend if I can get time) bleed it and give it a try. If that doesn't cure it, I have another identical machine with the hyd pump down on it. I'll pull the complete inj pump asm and swap em out... Just really didn't want to spend the time to re-time the inj pump in the machine, pretty cramped...

Return orifice(s) are between the "banjo" style return manifold and the injector top (washer with 2 small holes for each injector in pic below). I figured that out when I rebuilt the engine a couple years ago. I damaged one of the "washers" and couldn't reuse it, so I found another copper washer (lol, without return orifice in it) and slapped it together. Fuel knocked a little and was missing on that cyl until I figured it out.



134704


134698
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I agree with colt on the lift pump but if water made it into the injection pump it could be done, no lubrication in water.
That's typically my luck, but in this case (I hope anyway) I don't believe the inj pump failed, it ran fine after I drained/flushed and re-bled the complete fuel system (but anything's possible I guess).

Being it's a tappet style pump, I can't see all 4 pistons sticking at the same time. If it had sat with water in it for a while, I'd be concerned, but, I ran it hard for 3-4 hours after flushing.

Hoping lift is my issue, we'll see...
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Did you try searching or posting on orangetractortalk.com?
No, I spent a few hours searching and found several sites where people are putting these in small pickup trucks and Willis jeeps (lot of info there), but none regarding primary fuel psi.

I believe Colt gave the answer I was looking for.

Thanks for the site.
 

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The fuel solenoid...

You have a pull in circuit, should be activated by the starter ( it might be on a white wire from the starter. I dunno on a skid loader. I’m very familiar with that engine, it’s installed in a lot of stuff ). You should have power on one pin during cranking and it drops when the starter disengages.

Then you have a hold circuit, which is powered by the ignition switch. And ground of course.

So when you crank the starter the rod pulls in, then your hold circuit holds it there.

There is a square plate under the injection pump held on by 4 bolts that take a 10mm socket. Some are just a plate, others have a lever ( it’s the stop lever plate basically ). Look or feel in there, you’ll see/feel the linkage. Should move towards the front of the engine during cranking.

If it’s a bad solenoid be careful installing the new one. If it’s not perfect and you tweek the rod, the engine won’t shut down, its surprising how little pressure it takes to fuck one up.

There are of course several different setups for that engine, I’m describing the one I’m thinking you have. Small solenoid, about 1 1/4” -1 1/2” sticking out of the front cover? About the same diameter?
 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
The fuel solenoid...

You have a pull in circuit, should be activated by the starter ( it might be on a white wire from the starter. I dunno on a skid loader. I’m very familiar with that engine, it’s installed in a lot of stuff ). You should have power on one pin during cranking and it drops when the starter disengages.

Then you have a hold circuit, which is powered by the ignition switch. And ground of course.

So when you crank the starter the rod pulls in, then your hold circuit holds it there.

There is a square plate under the injection pump held on by 4 bolts that take a 10mm socket. Some are just a plate, others have a lever ( it’s the stop lever plate basically ). Look or feel in there, you’ll see/feel the linkage. Should move towards the front of the engine during cranking.

If it’s a bad solenoid be careful installing the new one. If it’s not perfect and you tweek the rod, the engine won’t shut down, its surprising how little pressure it takes to fuck one up.

There are of course several different setups for that engine, I’m describing the one I’m thinking you have. Small solenoid, about 1 1/4” -1 1/2” sticking out of the front cover? About the same diameter?

This is in a Thomas T153 skid, it had an external solenoid similar to the pic, but had a spring between the solenoid and lever instead of a solid rod. It pulled the lever toward the front of the engine when you turned power on. I removed it a few years ago and installed a cable that you pull to kill, and it returns to run position when it's released.

134731


I unhooked the fuel line from the lift, to the inj pump and wore my thumb out on the primer trying to get fuel, no deal, I'm convinced the lift itself gave out.

134729
 

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This is in a Thomas T153 skid, it had an external solenoid similar to the pic, but had a spring between the solenoid and lever instead of a solid rod. It pulled the lever toward the front of the engine when you turned power on. I removed it a few years ago and installed a cable that you pull to kill, and it returns to run position when it's released.

View attachment 134731

I unhooked the fuel line from the lift, to the inj pump and wore my thumb out trying to get fuel, no deal, I'm convinced the lift itself gave out.

View attachment 134729
Tried to edit my post and it turned into scrambled shit. Lol screw it. Yup, I’d say bad pump as well.
 

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Similar deal I just grabbed a lift pump from a common rail Cummins I had and modified it to work. $30 and easy to get/replace.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Similar deal I just grabbed a lift pump from a common rail Cummins I had and modified it to work. $30 and easy to get/replace.
Good idea, thanks.

If the lift/primer were easier to access, I'd be all for replacing it, but, it sucks to prime when it runs out of fuel, it's never in a good spot (terrain) to jack with when that happens. As long as the electric pump does what it should, I'll bypass the lift/primer which will make it a lot easier to re-prime when it runs out of fuel.

Yeah, I know, fix the gauge, or don't run out... Seems like it's never me that runs it out, but I do get to go out to get it started again lol...
 

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I have used these little edelbrock diesel pumps with success on several yanmars and Perkins diesels. 38 gph i believe and no idea what pressure.

134809
 

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I have used these little edelbrock diesel pumps with success on several yanmars and Perkins diesels. 38 gph i believe and no idea what pressure.

View attachment 134809
Looks like a mr gasket. Id look towards the facet solid state pumps. They have a choice for just about anything pressure and gpm. And you can usually go to napa to get them.
 
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