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I just pulled my heads off and cleaned up my copper head gaskets. Im getting coolant in the oil and i cant figure out from where...For the hell of it i mic'd the gasket, its .060" all over except in between the bores its .0585"- .0582" is this something i should worry about? The block is o-ringed and the heads are aluminum and dont have reciever grooves.

Thanks In Advance

Corey
 

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I had the same problem with mine. i used some new sce gaskets they offer. I think the titan series. they have a o ring around all the coolant ports. i used those and coper coat and no leaks. mine is the same as yours o ring block and no reciever. the only other thing to check is how high the o ring is out of the deck. i have heard that causes problems to.
 

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I just ran into the same issue.

My old 505 used 13:1 pistons, with a .100 thick gasket to knock the compression down to 11.5:1. O-ringed block, and iron heads. Never had any coolant leaking issues.

New 568 uses 10.4:1 pistons, .050 copper gasket, o-ring block and alum heads. Damn thing will leak all of the coolant into the pan.

Always used RTV on both sides of the gasket on the old motor and never had an issue. Did it the same way with the new motor, and it leaks.

Only thing we can think of is that there's no receiver groove in the heads, so the o-ring is keeping the gasket from properly sealing the water jackets. The .100 head gasket probably had enough crush space for the o-ring, but the thinner .050 gasket does not.

I just put the heads back on the motor yesterday, after removing the rtv, and using Permatex spray on Copper Coat (4 coats). Going to run it dry block the rest of the year, but after we know we're done racing, I'm going to fill it with water and see if it still seeps, or if the copper coat filled the voids.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I just ran into the same issue.

My old 505 used 13:1 pistons, with a .100 thick gasket to knock the compression down to 11.5:1. O-ringed block, and iron heads. Never had any coolant leaking issues.

New 568 uses 10.4:1 pistons, .050 copper gasket, o-ring block and alum heads. Damn thing will leak all of the coolant into the pan.

Always used RTV on both sides of the gasket on the old motor and never had an issue. Did it the same way with the new motor, and it leaks.

Only thing we can think of is that there's no receiver groove in the heads, so the o-ring is keeping the gasket from properly sealing the water jackets. The .100 head gasket probably had enough crush space for the o-ring, but the thinner .050 gasket does not.

I just put the heads back on the motor yesterday, after removing the rtv, and using Permatex spray on Copper Coat (4 coats). Going to run it dry block the rest of the year, but after we know we're done racing, I'm going to fill it with water and see if it still seeps, or if the copper coat filled the voids.
let me know what you find, im getting tired of trying to find a way to get these to seal...

corey
 

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If we are talking BBC don't forget there also is coolant going from the heads to the intake manifold in 4 places. If the angle(s) doesn't match up, the screws aren't pulling the manifold down enough, or the lip in the front or back have interferance the intake gasket will not seal and the coolant will leak in.
 

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Good point U.P...

On the last set of intake gaskets which blew out at 30 PSI, we were using nothing, other than clamping force, to hold them in place.

The next set will have Edelbrock Gaskacinch applied to them, with a liberal amount of RTV around the water ports.

My issue may have very well been in the intake gasket. But, since both head and intake sealing has been changed, I'll never know. As long as it don't leak, I dont give a rats ass.
 

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The other thing you need to look at that I have 1st hand experience with is, if the slots or holes in the intake are big enough to allow the manifold to be pulled down when you tighten the bolts. After heads have been milled and blocks decked everything changes.
WJ If you didn't use any sealer or check the bolt holes I would suggest you pull it back apart and check that out. Being your running big boy boost everything needs to be tight and sealed or things can go in the crapper real fast. :cool:
 

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Put those gaskets and manifold on dry first and look down thru the intake manifold bolt holes. Make sure there is enough room in there so once it starts to pull down they don't bottom out. I ran into that problem and was lucky enough to catch it before I fired the motor up and found out that water don't mix well...
 

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This is my first post here, I am the Tech Support guy for Valco Cincinnati Consumer Products Inc.
The Best thing to put on your copper headgaskets to eliminate leaking of compression/oil/water is Hylomar Aerosol spray. It is used by all sorts of motorsports and even some top fuel cars.

It was invented around WWII for use in aircraft engines both piston engines and jet turbines. Today it is widely used in powerplants for use in power generating turbines and its widely considered the flange sealant of choice.
We carry both the Aerograde and racing formulas of Hylomar. Hylomar comes in many different forms. Tubes, brush top cans, cartridges, tear open packs, Aerosol.

Even some exotic european engines use Hylomar in place of a traditional head gasket. The Product is totally impervious to oil/water/fuel/ & most automotive chemicals.
We make a Solvent called "Solvent 184" for removal of the product.

Hylomar will fill gaps up to .010" ten-thousands of a inch and remain steadfast against combustion pressures and blow out.

It is rated at 600 degree's constant temperature and is considered "reusable" until that point....Almost like velcro in a liquid form. I have seen Hylomar seal above and beyond 900 degree's with zero failure. To find Hylomar go to www.valco-cp.com and check out the where to buy page...There are distributors all over the USA.
 
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