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T/S 368E
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Installed all new brakes, everything, lines, MC, drums, rotors etc etc.

Having a fade issue and I think it's down to being an ABS issue.
Tried google, and it seems I need some code reader/scanner that will open all the ABS valves, so I can re-bleed the lines and eliminate the fade???

Am I reading it wrong, is there a way to bleed the ABS system without a scanner??
Drove around the industrial park for 1/2 an hour and everything is fine,
but before I start towing a big ass trailer or hit the streets, I really want it done right.
Not a fan of having this fade on my mind every time I drive the thing.

Thanks guys.


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Trump Voter NRA Member
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You don't need a scanner. There is a bleeder on the RABS valve that is on the frame rail, just bleed it there. If you pedal is still low check the rear brake adjustment and make sure the parking brakes are FULLY released, look at the top anchor point and make sure the shoes are fully seated to it.
 

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T/S 368E
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Discussion Starter #3
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Sweet, thanks. I'll check that asap. The pedal fade makes me nervous.

I'm not sure if I even put the parking brake on. It was messed up by some local goof when I was still working, and I had to chop it.

Thanks again, appreciate the help!!


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Subscribing.. We bought a 95 F-250 PSD and when you shop pedal is decent but it slowly fades to the floor as your stopping. Was like this when we bought it.

Is this what you truck is doing?
 

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T/S 368E
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Discussion Starter #5
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Absolutely, pedal is great, drives great, zero air anywhere, but it's the fading I'm worried about before towing, hitting the streets.
Checked google, and got a bunch of stuff about the ABS needs to be bleed when replacing all the lines.
That's where I got several different answers about opening all the ABS valves with a scanner???


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I think the fade is normal with the original booster. IIRC there is a "No Fade" booster that you can buy at the dealer.
Do you mean the master cylinder? Booster is vacuum assist if they go bad the pedal gets hard.
 

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A low pedal is usually air. A fading pedal is usually indicating a leak somewhere.
 

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Ford has a new booster (F5TZ-2005-CA) called a "zero-loss) and there is also a TSB to address this issue. I know some guys have used the hydro-boost unit from a F450 also. I drive a 97 F350 4x4 CCLB 7.3 and my brakes are "ok", I was going to use the F450 set up on it, I have the parts just haven't done it yet.
 

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T/S 368E
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Discussion Starter #11
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Hurt my arm, so haven't touched anything.
I did finally get plates and insurance a week or 2 ago :)
Drove it around today and the ABS light is on solid, and the pedal still fades at stop signs.
Will try and bleed it this W/E!!! Thanks again for the replies!!!


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As mentioned before, get the Zero Loss brake booster. These OBS Fords are all I own, and had the issue with a few. The zero loss booster is the cure.

Ford Part #F5TZ-2005-CA and it should be right around $191
 

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Gdogg, I'm sure you know this, but the hydro boost is from the F-Superduty which in later years turned into the F450. I can't remember which forum it was, but there is a SOLID writeup on the swap with pics, and part #'s
 

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T/S 368E
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Discussion Starter #14
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Thanks, I will definitely check that part if bleeding the ABS doesn't fix it.
Ran to the store yesterday, and it runs and stops fine, it just bleeds out at the stops and I hate having idiot lights on.
Heading to the wheelie contest this W/E, but I will crawl under there next W/E.

For the record, this does not have the hydraulic booster.
It is a super duty with the big springs and rear end, but has a normal master???

Thanks again for part number, google it right now :)


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Gdogg, I'm sure you know this, but the hydro boost is from the F-Superduty which in later years turned into the F450. I can't remember which forum it was, but there is a SOLID writeup on the swap with pics, and part #'s
I'll have to look for that write-up, I have the complete hydro-boost setup from a F450 OBS that I'm planning on putting on my 97 F350. There is also a good write-up on using Econoline rear disc brakes on a OBS, I'm looking for the parts to do it, I wouldn't use the Eldorado calipers that some people have tried, I don't see how a little single piston caliper setup is better than the drums that came with originally with the truck.
 

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i ran into this exact same issue with a 95 f350 at work, we talked to ford numerous times about it. and we replaced every part that they suggested, basically the complete brake system and even used the short travel booster that they suggested. nothing helped. and it still had the low pedal.

i fixed it last week and it now has better pedal than it did when it was new, my fix was a bigger master cylinder. i used a master cylinder for a 96 F Super Duty, it has a much bigger bore and more fluid capacity.

the lines connect the same, the only modification needed is to elongate the bolt holes toward the center. its pretty easy and guranteed to fix your problem, hope this helps.

here is the one i used. http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/C...e-Master-Cylinder-New/_/R-NMAM3240_0358751891
 

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T/S 368E
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Discussion Starter #17
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Made a 100 mile trip yesterday, and I made it home :)

1st problem was the fuel filter light came on once, and flickered a few times.
I was expecting needing 2-3 since it sat so long, so I'll swap that after the game and take another ride.
I did notice both tank gauges are way off :(, so I'll have to deal with that next.
Front tank is reading way lower then actual, rear tank is reading way higher???
Screwing around with A/C, just to check everything, lumbar still works, and the compressor isn't kicking on,
so I'm hoping the freon is low and some sensor won't let it kick on???

Thanks again for the replies.


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