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Lol, nope, I'm around 200, and fairly shredded for an old fucker,I thought you were going to say by getting out of it..
Lol, nope, I'm around 200, and fairly shredded for an old fucker,I thought you were going to say by getting out of it..
I was being facetious..but you know there is a 300 LBS dude buying Aluminum lug nuts..Lol, nope, I'm around 200, and fairly shredded for an old fucker,
So you’re looking for approximately 50lbs or less? I realize in comp every ounce is precious, but I would look somewhere else rather than deal with aluminum lugs.I really don’t agree with the acceleration of mass on a driveshaft, axle shaft, ring and pinion etc.being reduced to the point where there’s a real world advantage.Other than the physical weight removal I see no benefit.Minimum weight for class will be 1920 pounds.
Object is to get it as close to that as possible.
Do you have some detailed pics?Suggestions for anywhere else to take weight out of a less than 2000 pound with driver door car?
Smaller fuel cell, if it’s a stick, lighter bellhousing, no alternator, 5 lb lithium battery, aluminum block and heads, non steel braided lines, can you get by with one chute instead of two?scalloped brake rotors. A picture of the car would help.Suggestions for anywhere else to take weight out of a less than 2000 pound with driver door car?
What car manufacturer? What class?The car has all that except steel block for class rules.
Smaller battery, smaller fuel capacity, ditch the tachometer if on a burnout limiter (you're not watching the mfer going down the track anyhow), carbon brakes (consider Lamb brakes), ditch the water pump and cooling system (just fill the motor up with water if possible), get an aluminum rearend yoke from Frank Parks (Neil & Parks; he may sell a u-joint style, but I'm not sure - but do check with him), smaller co2 bottle, aluminum dzus fasteners (ditch the steel ones), put battery closer to the front so you dont' have to run heavy gauge battery cable the length of the car, etc etc etc.The car has all that except steel block for class rules.
From the “ Champion Wheels Has Copied My Lug Nuts” thread. Another classic.Nobody remembers the lugnut guy on here years ago? Someone "copied" his aluminum lug nuts and he lost his shit over it,
All depends upon the speed. Which of course directly influences the rpm of components that spin. I used to do servo tuning on CNC machines. In the early days when they were going slower I would have to do different tunes depending upon how much mass was being moved. The mass would consist of spindles, dust collection, tool changers, other axis etc. But as the machines went faster and faster with higher acceleration rates it came to the point where the mass, being laterally moved, no longer mattered. Within reason the machine itself could weight whatever, it was the weight of the ballscrew, pulleys and rotating part of the motor that consumed all the energy. Now does this directly relate to a car? I don't know as I've never seen the equations, much less run them, but it wouldn't surprise me. Not on your street car barely breaking 100mph in the 1/4 but perhaps on the higher speed stuff.So you’re looking for approximately 50lbs or less? I realize in comp every ounce is precious, but I would look somewhere else rather than deal with aluminum lugs.I really don’t agree with the acceleration of mass on a driveshaft, axle shaft, ring and pinion etc.being reduced to the point where there’s a real world advantage.Other than the physical weight removal I see no benefit.
I think as the mass moves to the center of rotation, it becomes less effective.The interesting thing though is that a lighter crankshaft, rods , pistons and flywheel /clutch/ converter make a significant difference.It seems as though the advantage stops once it’s applied to the transmission rearward.In my own car , I changed from a standard 3” steel driveshaft to a 4” aluminum unit and saw absolutely no change in 60ft or e.t.All depends upon the speed. Which of course directly influences the rpm of components that spin. I used to do servo tuning on CNC machines. In the early days when they were going slower I would have to do different tunes depending upon how much mass was being moved. The mass would consist of spindles, dust collection, tool changers, other axis etc. But as the machines went faster and faster with higher acceleration rates it came to the point where the mass, being laterally moved, no longer mattered. Within reason the machine itself could weight whatever, it was the weight of the ballscrew, pulleys and rotating part of the motor that consumed all the energy. Now does this directly relate to a car? I don't know as I've never seen the equations, much less run them, but it wouldn't surprise me. Not on your street car barely breaking 100mph in the 1/4 but perhaps on the higher speed stuff.
I had a steel small block ford block lightened by 28 pounds. They machined off all the motor mounts, oil filter boss & then machined both sides of the block & valley. I could of had a few more pounds removed from the back & front of the block but it was a few thousand $ for only a few more pounds.The car has all that except steel block for class rules.
Absolutely the difference in radius makes a huge difference. In a vehicle the axle, wheels and tires though are spinning slower than engine speed by whatever your final drive ration in transmission if it is not 1:1 and of course the rear end ratio, which is where the big reduction in speed is for those parts relative to engine speed. This is why it really comes down to top end speed whether any weight reductions are significant. But again, having never run the equations I don't know if it ever really becomes significant. As for distance from centerline think of the old "pukalators" you played on as a kid. We would get them spinning as fast as possible from the outside and then everyone but one guy would pull themselves into the middle and the thing would accelerate like crazy and usually the one guy would fly off. As kids we didn't understand the math behind it just the seat of the pants physics. Now I do and it's conservation of energy. If it takes less energy to spin a kid close to the center and the energy must remain the same then it has to speed up when you move to the center.I think as the mass moves to the center of rotation, it becomes less effective.The interesting thing though is that a lighter crankshaft, rods , pistons and flywheel /clutch/ converter make a significant difference.It seems as though the advantage stops once it’s applied to the transmission rearward.In my own car , I changed from a standard 3” steel driveshaft to a 4” aluminum unit and saw absolutely no change in 60ft or e.t.