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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Application is Comp Eliminator.
It is a door car that weighs less than 2000 pounds with small block V8 race ready with driver.
 

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Application is Comp Eliminator.
It is a door car that weighs less than 2000 pounds with small block V8 race ready with driver.
The gain could easily be calculated with the weights of old and new lug nuts, the bolt pattern diameter and gear and rpm info. Gonna be minimal but on a Comp car you do all you can and eventually thousandths add up to hundredths.
 

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I used Champion Alum. on my streetcar with steelies. NP for 6yrs and counting. Knock on wood.
Reason, i have Moser axles with Ford ends on my 12 bolt and 1/2 studs. Front have stock 7/16 studs.
Both use 13/16 12 point socket that i welded to my stock jack handle.
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
My concern is threads siezing with removal and installation often.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
Minimum weight for class will be 1920 pounds.
Object is to get it as close to that as possible.
 

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In comp we eventually started breaking titanium studs after a little while and went to steel. However, the aluminum lug nuts we left alone.

Always torque and NEVER impact any of them. Anti-seize is important.

Broke a titanium stud during tire shake… then one day at a divisional we were standing in the pits with the car on the stand and heard a “pmmmffffff” - and the damned stud and lug nut fell out of the wheel opening… just sitting there. David Nickens was close by and shared his experience and said yep that’s why we run steel on our lug studs. From then on we ran steel. We pulled wheels in comp a LOT and it just wasn’t worth the bs of worrying about it. But the aluminum lug nuts with the built on lug washer is nice.

Hope this helps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
Thanks JBAutoman.
Real world experience.
If using steel studs, aluminium nuts and antiseize, what did you torque them to?
 

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I'm sure the next question comes into someone's mind, What's the rotational mass weight savings worth? There is variables with distance from the center of the rotational object to C/L of the rotating mass, such as counterweights, and more specifically lug nuts and studs. The average denominator for some to most automotive purposes is around 1.7. Example... Meaning 1 lb of static weight of rotating weight is removed is equivalent 1.7 lbs of non-rotational weight removed from the vehicle. In my opinion, this area seems to be overlooked quite often. Best bang for the buck.... Just another angle to acknowledge
 

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Thanks JBAutoman.
Real world experience.
If using steel studs, aluminium nuts and antiseize, what did you torque them to?
80 or 85 I believe. Torque may also depend on the aluminum lug nut being used.

And you’re welcome!
 

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I’m coming out with a line of anti gravity lug nuts if anyone is interested. The only detail I’ll post is they are made from Moscovium, don’t need people stealing my idea..
If you're running a car at the minimum class weight that would actually be a loss of performance everything being the same. If they don't weigh anything then you would have to add weight to the car somewhere to get back to the minimum weight. Since those lug nuts still have mass, you will still use some of your power to accelerate that mass forward along with the rotational acceleration.

It ain't weight we're fighting, it's MASS. :unsure:
 

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If you're running a car at the minimum class weight that would actually be a loss of performance everything being the same. If they don't weigh anything then you would have to add weight to the car somewhere to get back to the minimum weight. Since those lug nuts still have mass, you will still use some of your power to accelerate that mass forward along with the rotational acceleration.

It ain't weight we're fighting, it's MASS. :unsure:
For the same reason we don’t run 70 lb crankshafts, 30lb rear wheels, and factory size brake rotors on all-out drag cars. The engine has to tout it either way, but when it’s rotating weight it has to rotate it also. Not a good recipe for all-out racing where we want to accelerate the weight as quickly as possible. Kind of like putting a 30lb backpack on and touting it is easier than putting on 30lbs of ankle weights - both may suck but one affects the motion in more than one way. There may be a better explanation. I dunno.
 

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For the same reason we don’t run 70 lb crankshafts, 30lb rear wheels, and factory size brake rotors on all-out drag cars. The engine has to tout it either way, but when it’s rotating weight it has to rotate it also. Not a good recipe for all-out racing where we want to accelerate the weight as quickly as possible. Kind of like putting a 30lb backpack on and touting it is easier than putting on 30lbs of ankle weights - both may suck but one affects the motion in more than one way. There may be a better explanation. I dunno.
We DON'T accelerate weight. We accelerate MASS. Gravity acting on mass creates weight. ;)
 
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I am currently under the witch’s spell of a racecar that gets whatever it wants despite the cost. That said, I decided against Ti studs for the sake that my particular wheel choice requires a very short stud anyway so the weight savings would be extremely negligible. As for the nuts, they are so close to the axle centerline that I’m really not worried about reciprocating mass. Titanium nuts & studs might be cool to talk about in the pits, but I’d rather talk about about the smiling girl in short shorts that just walked by.
 

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It's not a matter of doing one thing like replacing lug nuts, it's doing lots of little things that all add up. Iv'e taken about 250 lbs out of my car doing lots of small things.
Was it that @aaron p dude?
Yes, I believe that's the guy, not to be confused with Aaron6061, who also does lots of aluminum stuff,
 

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Everything adds up, I've taken around 250 lbs out of my car just replacing lots of little things with lightweight stuff.
 

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Everything adds up, I've taken around 250 lbs out of my car just replacing lots of little things with lightweight stuff.
I thought you were going to say by getting out of it..
 
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