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Discussion Starter #1
Local wrecking yard has a core return LC9 for the same price as what people are asking for iron block 5.3's.
Other than the block being cracked any reason to not use it?
They do not know why is was exchanged but my plan is to have whatever I end up with gone through, bored, new pistons, and heads freshened up at a minimum anyway.
Thanks
 

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5.3 life has 2 choices 馃
1) NA aluminum block= re-sleeve big bore 4.0 to 4.185 or typical DD rebuild and not having the extra weight
2) FI - turbo,s/c = iron block
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Will be NA.
Low horsepower, 480-500, bracket engine was my line of thinking.
 

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if it's in a yard then it ran when it was brought there, why take it apart and waste money
 

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Yeah a bunch of them, not sure why all of a sudden they won't hold up.
Cheap cast iron sleeves with X amount of boost, that are trying to be saved by Hard Bloc and running from det路o路na路tion 馃
 

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Cheap cast iron sleeves with X amount of boost, that are trying to be saved by Hard Bloc and running from det路o路na路tion 馃
Yeah, but people doing that do that doesn't mean aluminum blocks won't hold power. Those people will kill an iron block.

There are plenty of fast ones out there.
 

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Yeah, but people doing that do that doesn't mean aluminum blocks won't hold power. Those people will kill an iron block.

There are plenty of fast ones out there.
I believe you...not into FI btw. But do know LS blocks. Killa question is why should one care if going this far with a Junk 5.3 long block with Maxx Boost 馃 build for boost or go the easy route and pray for the best. Key is not trying to save a 5.3 from the salvage yard @ Maxx boost levels. Get another or build it properly if cash allows.
Hard Bloc with:
bigger head studs, also add the extra studs on the factory 5.3 aluminum block = 6 bolts like Lsx,dart,rhs,etc...blocks. Cool thing is if 22psi with a salvage 5.3 sounds good, you know 35+psi sounds even better. Yeah we got this POS, filled it, added a few tid bits and yeah fuck you and your $$$$$ engine.
IDK 馃槃
 
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ls1 s/s notch on 28s
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stock head stud size works fine if using the stock heads..alot are now saying if u go to 1/2 studs, the stock casting flex around the head bolts an cant transfer the extra load to the block.

you dont even have to fill a alum 5.3 to make it take 1500hp..
 

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With you brother....was thinking about when Zach was adding darton sleeves and the extra bolt/bigger studs on 5.3's
Hate he screwed everyone and myself he was damn good.
 

ls1 s/s notch on 28s
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Will be NA.
Low horsepower, 480-500, bracket engine was my line of thinking.
thats pretty simple..the lc9 has 799/243 heads..you can sell them for $400 an put some 862s to bump half a point of compression.the 862s flow a tad less but the small bore of the 5.3 shrouds the 799/243 valve so with that an the extra comp the 862s will make more power an 862s run from $100-$200 a set.then take extra cash an do a valve job an bore match the 862s an you be way a head of a 243.

then do some btr .660s springs,push rods,dod lifter delete and pick a cam an intake for your rpm range..if the bottom ends good leave it an run it.

carb a shelf cam motion deal in the 230/240 dur range,holley split intake an a good hp750 would be what id do..stay away from vic jr intakes..

efi something like a btr stage 4 deal,used fast 92mn intake or a edelbrock proflo intake..
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I like your thinking.
706's and 862 are basically the same head?
I know the 706 heads with the battery looking logo have issues with cracking.
Any experience with cutting for larger 2.00" valves and port work?
Unneeded expense at this power level?
 

ls1 s/s notch on 28s
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yes they are an correct stay away from the batt logo 706s..hence why i say to people find 862s..

you can port an go bigger valve but at that point just keep the 799s..youll be shrouding the valve again some..most the work is in the bowl area an valve job on ls heads.

if you do a good valve job to the 862s youll pick up flow threw out..then if you open the chambers to match your bore,youll pick up mid flow...its easy to do,old gasket your bore size,black marker,scribe,sanding cartidge.

lay the gasket on the deck of the head.trace the gasket around the area next the edge of the valve..then take your sanding roll an lay that area of the chamber back till you get to the edge of your bore size..now your chamber will match the bore in that area hence un shouding the valve an giving u better flow coming off the seat.

that an valve job should get u there..compressions always a good thing..you can mill heads an fly cut the pistons..
 
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