Yellow Bullet Forums banner
1 - 20 of 22 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
705 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
HEY I'm a new member this is my first thread. I have a 80 mustang that i use mainly as a hobbie & lowest ET possible.

My problem is i just installed a edlebrock progressive controller, and the car slowed down . normally i run 6.40 et @ 108 1/8 mile with a 150 shot, after the progressive installation car runs 6.75 @ 104 mph. listening to the video you can hear the car surge no matter the changes i make to the settings the surge is still there [On motor i run 6.85 @ 100 mph].

I'm Thinking alt amps, My electrical system is run with a chevy 1 wire 80 amp alternator, black magic 13.9 amps, perma elec.trans fan 7.0 amps, csr elec. water pump amps?, nos cheater system amps?, msd 6al , not sure of total amp draw. Could the charging system be part of the problem? Any help is appreciated if more info is needed just let me know..... thanks tony
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
578 Posts
One of the most over looked things in an electrical system is the battery kill switch. Most of the switch are only 25 amp rated. It will have a sticker on it with a UL rating and a amp rating, I would check that before going any further. My Jerry Haas built pro stock car had one of these in it and I chaced my tail for half a season before finding it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,435 Posts
I'll be surprised if that was the issue. I took my Nova out two weeks ago for some shakedown passes. I have a single 12V battery with no alternator (for now). I have an edelbrock progressive controller, a MSD digital 7, RPM products data logger, Prologger wide band 02, elec water pump, elec fuel pump and a fogger running with no problems. Data logger showed 11.75v going thru the lights. Yes, I know it needs an alternator and I'm adding one today but this seems like it might be something else. Did you check the plugs after the pass? In my experience, surging on the bottle is caused by a over-rich condition.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
705 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I took the battery cut off switch loose chasing down the problem and surge is still there. No, I did'nt check the plugs after the 2 passes i lean the fuel down from n82 f82, n82 f74 and the surge was still there. could n82 f74 be too lean?....any suggestion is welcomed............. thanks tony
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,435 Posts
I took the battery cut off switch loose chasing down the problem and surge is still there. No, I did'nt check the plugs after the 2 passes i lean the fuel down from n82 f82, n82 f74 and the surge was still there. could n82 f74 be too lean?....any suggestion is welcomed............. thanks tony
Hard to say if it's too lean or not. The only way to really tell is to read the plugs. What's the fuel pressure? How much trouble is it to disconnect the new controller? If you didn't change anything else, it might be worth it to rule that out....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
705 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Fuel is set at 6psi and the engine is set at 6 psi also. I did'nt have this problem until i installed the progressive controller. I'll disconnect it and see what happens. frist i'm going to the shop and do a amp check with everything on including the progressive controller [off course with the bottle off ]....
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
71,969 Posts
If the rating for your alternator is 80 amps - thats at high rpms. It will be putting out much less than that at idle or part throttle.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
705 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Did amp test but still not sure of totat amp draw with car under load. I was told you blow a meter to space if meter is,nt strong enough..I did get a amp total by testing one component one at a time. It totated 32.5 .... I'll take it for a full test load tomarrow.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
26,607 Posts
With NOS 80amps is not going to cut it. You need to address that, most likely I would be looking for a 120+amp altenrator. (Typically we lean towardss 130+amps for NOS applications, depending on how many solenoids you have now, and for the future). Dont know if this has anything to do with your surging, but it is an issue none the less.

It is important to know your voltage, as that will tell you if you have a defiencey some where. Doing an voltage drop test will tell you exactly where: http://www.svapowerproducts.com/html/voltage_drop.html
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
705 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I did a volt test yesterday also, At idle I get 11.26 volts, at 2000rpm it's 12.84, at 3000rpm it's 14.10 and does'nt get any higher. The readings were taking with all accesseries turned on except the nitrous system being activated . Hearing that 80 amp alt, won't cut it for NOS is new news for me, so i will address this issue with a alt from sva...THANKS I'll post more once the problem is solved.......tony
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
26,607 Posts
Hey, we can always use the business. But... I think there is something else going on. You need an alternator forsure, but I dont think that is going to be the end of it. You may have a bad battery too, or one that is going bad. Or it could be wiring, but I suspect the battery. Do you have time to pull it and have it tested?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
705 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I can pull the battery and give it a good check up. I really want to find this problem so having the battery checked is no problem. Checked out SVA web site for a alternator, so many to choose from I need help with choosing the the correct one for my set up. thanks tony
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
26,607 Posts
If 80amps get you over 14volts at full rpm without nitrous. Then one of our CS130ACSE units should cover you fine with the 150shot. We will adjust the pulley size to fit your idle and crank pulley size so you get 100amps at idle. They are 120+ amps in the top end, so the extra 40+amps will cover your NOS system. (YB price $120)

However if you think you might get another kit or go to a fogger at some point in the future, I would suggest considering going to the CS130ACSE Thunder Series now, instead of later. They are a little more expensive (YB $160) but have 160amps.

Both will work well on the street as well and compare to the older 10si's they have dual fans, double roller bearings (larger size too), avalanche diodes, etc.

hope that helps, and I can also be reached at 1-888-214-7774 (though not often can I answer during the day, sorry)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
821 Posts
You don't have an amperage problem, you have issues with the 71900 controller. They are very sensitive to RF noise. Does the screen look blurry when the controller is on with the car running? If you used the supplied wiring that came with the controller you have a few problems to start with. The activation wire is onlt 22ga. and acts like a antenna... it picks up every little noise in the car. I had to move our controller to the back of the vehicle.... it is very important to run both the power and the ground directly to the battery w/ 12ga. wire. I have fixed alot of these problems for others in my area. if you need any help shoot me an email...

[email protected]

Later, Keith
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
26,607 Posts
Since when does 11.26 volts while the car is running not represent a lack of amperage???????????????????????????
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
821 Posts
Amperage

Since when does 11.26 volts while the car is running not represent a lack of amperage???????????????????????????

11.26 sounds like a Voltage problem to me. I know for a fact that one of your SVA altenators will help his program, We have 2 of them!! His problems will not be solved with an altenator. he has a problem with RF noise... I have seen this 20+ times in the past 6 months... he stated that his problem started when he installed the 71900 EDE controller. you can put 5 200amp altenators on this car and still have the same problem. Until he isolates the controller and upgrades the wiring he will continue to have problems. I am not in no way arguing with you Ray, you are the sharpest person I have run across on Alt., and Battery, and electrical Shit!!! BTW the Sears Platinum battery was a great suggestion, what a nice piece....

Later, Keith
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
705 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
As for the wiring i'm pretty good with it. I replaced all the wiring with 14 ga. The screen is clear with no signs of interference.

RAY, CS130ACSE 160 amp sounds more like it , $160 is well within my range. I plan to spray as much as 250 shot once i get everything up to the task, so i will contact you this week to make a purchase...Is there any additional info i need to have ready when i call ?... tony
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
26,607 Posts
I will need to know crank pulley size, which type it is (v groove or serpentine) and your idle.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
26,607 Posts
11.26 sounds like a Voltage problem to me. I know for a fact that one of your SVA altenators will help his program, We have 2 of them!! His problems will not be solved with an altenator. he has a problem with RF noise... I have seen this 20+ times in the past 6 months... he stated that his problem started when he installed the 71900 EDE controller. you can put 5 200amp altenators on this car and still have the same problem. Until he isolates the controller and upgrades the wiring he will continue to have problems. I am not in no way arguing with you Ray, you are the sharpest person I have run across on Alt., and Battery, and electrical Shit!!! BTW the Sears Platinum battery was a great suggestion, what a nice piece....

Later, Keith
Keith,
My apologies for reading your post wrong. One of the reasons he has a voltage problem at idle is because the alternator is not producing enough (or any) amperage at idle. We can see that by the voltage going up as the alternator (and engine) increase in rpm. So that is one problem for sure.

I think there is another issue as well. Possibly not, but the battery dropping to 11.2volts right after start up is very low. I would have expected to see 12-12.4 volts and then it fade from there. It could be something as simple as the battery not being fully charged when the car was started and the voltage tests done.

We will see how things go with a new higher output alternator in place. It may also help with interference too. As the older style alternators have regular button diodes (200volt spikes possible = noise) where as the newer units have avalanche diodes (nothing higher than 32volts = computer safe).

Thank you for the compliments, there are lots of guys that know more than me (I have their phone numbers), but they detest the internet so you are stuck with me.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
821 Posts
Keith,
My apologies for reading your post wrong. One of the reasons he has a voltage problem at idle is because the alternator is not producing enough (or any) amperage at idle. We can see that by the voltage going up as the alternator (and engine) increase in rpm. So that is one problem for sure.

I think there is another issue as well. Possibly not, but the battery dropping to 11.2volts right after start up is very low. I would have expected to see 12-12.4 volts and then it fade from there. It could be something as simple as the battery not being fully charged when the car was started and the voltage tests done.

We will see how things go with a new higher output alternator in place. It may also help with interference too. As the older style alternators have regular button diodes (200volt spikes possible = noise) where as the newer units have avalanche diodes (nothing higher than 32volts = computer safe).

Thank you for the compliments, there are lots of guys that know more than me (I have their phone numbers), but they detest the internet so you are stuck with me.

Hey Ray, being stuck with you is alright in my book!!!! you should throw those other #'s away... you know enough to get us all in trouble!!!! I will be needing another 160 in the near future. If we did not have to cool down the cars we would never need a battery charger again!

Thanks for your help as well.

Talk soon, Keith
 
1 - 20 of 22 Posts
Top