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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Cold track. I made three passes. Prep was still pretty good. Ran my 29.5x10.5's stiff with tubes at 12lbs. Car is 4k weight with me in it. First pass was an easy pass. Car pulled like in the video but did it slow enough I could drive out of it and it ran a [email protected] on 18lbs of boost. Next two passes I tried to leave on less boost but tried to run 22lbs total and ramp rate a little quicker. It did what you see in video. What do I need to do to my arb. lengthen passenger side? Other than pulling the first pass was smooth so I think shock settings are good. My 7 year old runs Jr's and is my crew guy. I have friends watching him to ensure he stays safe and in the yellow zone. I love his disgusted look when I don't make a full pass. lol


 

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Did it only do it once? Looks like there’s a ton of preload in the right rear but it acts like there’s a ton in the left rear. I’d be surprised if the chassis was that far off and it wasn’t a fluke. The setup would have to really jacked to make a move like that.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I did a quick glance over this morning. Everything "looks" intact and in good shape. I will pull the shocks to make sure they are working. I have also had one bind on me before a couple years ago. I did talk to some other racers today and they said they kept forgetting to put water in the burnout box. New crew. In my first pass it did it a little but you can definitely tell my burnout was better. With the temp in the low 40's outside I may have just not been getting the tires hot enough or even enough. I will look it all over.


For a rule of thumb though. If the car pulls left a little, do you extend the passenger side ARB? And vice versa if it pulls right, extend the drivers side?
 

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Have the kid hold you in the water longer, don’t just drive through the burnout. Beyond that, you need to check every suspension point. I’m surprised the track didn’t suggest you go home. Kudo’s to your kids, tell them both great work!
 

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I also add... I think 12psi is on the low side considering the weight and power. Not that that would make it drive right. Corner weights would be provide a lot of insight.
 

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Is this a 4-link car? Here's how I was taught to set up a 4-link. Use the upper left to set the pinion angle. Your u-joint angles should be the same at each end of the driveshaft. (This is all based on the housing being square to the car.) After that, you place the bottom bars. Always start with the bottom bars either horizontal or angled slightly up at the front. The bottom right gets one-quarter to one-half turn of pre-load. The left rear should be dead neutral with you in the driver's seat. I believe your anti-roll bar should also be slack/neutral with you in the driver's seat. Start there, and you should be able to get back on track. I don't make as much power as you, but mine leaves almost dead straight, and you can go from the stripe to the turn with your hands off the wheel.
 

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I would guess that the rear is not square in the car or the mounting point for the suspension members are worn and have slop. That will make the car do bad things like yours is doing. Also I would not burn across the line like you are doing. By the time you are staged the tires have cooled off especially if the weather is cold. Plus you are backing up and picking up all of the rubber that you just scrubbed off of the tires. Don’t do a dry hop in the water before the burn out. That just slings water up into the wheel wells and drips back on the tire after the burn out. Burn then stage as quickly as possible.
 

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May have broke the plug weld at the axle tube to the center section. The tube will spin and go right back into place after it unloads. Hard to see but look close.
 

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Is this a 4-link car? Here's how I was taught to set up a 4-link. Use the upper left to set the pinion angle. Your u-joint angles should be the same at each end of the driveshaft. (This is all based on the housing being square to the car.) After that, you place the bottom bars. Always start with the bottom bars either horizontal or angled slightly up at the front. The bottom right gets one-quarter to one-half turn of pre-load. The left rear should be dead neutral with you in the driver's seat. I believe your anti-roll bar should also be slack/neutral with you in the driver's seat. Start there, and you should be able to get back on track. I don't make as much power as you, but mine leaves almost dead straight, and you can go from the stripe to the turn with your hands off the wheel.
Bottom bars set the wheel base, top left sets the pinion angle and TOP right sets the preload.
 
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