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Thanks for feedback on me questions on this great fourm ,what kind activation for nitrous does everyone like i use button on steering wheel at moment what advantages to using microswitch on throttle verses button on steering wheel also some guys talked about digest timer and settin it up .2 off a sec out off the hole this would have to be used with micro throttle activated switch correct?
How far out hole would car be aproxx at .2 of a second i thought drag radials like to be shocked out off hole instanly or do they like to be out off hole a few feet first the juice is applyed? thanks victtor
 

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ls1 s/s notch on 28s
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micro and digest will work..when the micro is hit it then goes threw the digest and gets the delay and then bam you are on juice once the time is up.

as far as the car being out it all depends on the combo .2 is the norm i think most start at..then work your way up and down till you figure out where your car is best at..you might be able to hit it out the hole full on a good track but come a shitty track you might have to use the digest .1 or .2..
 

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I always run a full throttle switch AND a button near the shifter.

I use the shifter button to test the system and purge into the motor before a run.

The throttle switch only works when my foot is on the floor... and just so happens, that's the ONLY time I want the nitrous on when I'm going down the track.
It also acts as an "instant-off" switch if the car comes unhooked... since the very first instinctive reaction to traction loss is lifting off the pedal.
 

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ls1 s/s notch on 28s
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some use a switch on the wheel to kill the juice for a second if they go into a huge wheel stand that way they dont have to lift out the gas witch would make the car come crashing down in some instants
 

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some use a switch on the wheel to kill the juice for a second if they go into a huge wheel stand that way they dont have to lift out the gas witch would make the car come crashing down in some instants
Yup - that's what I wired up, just haven't used it yet.

Mine is on the WOT switch plus the system is off if I have the transbrake button pushed in (that way I can be WOT on the TB when staged and the system won't come one until I release the TB.

The steering wheel button is an interupt to turn the system off like if I need to come down from a big wheelstand gently or if spinning massively or loosing traction, I can kill 1/3 of my horsepower.

I can also use it if I race a foot brake class. I'll use it to turn the nitrous off when staging and then release the button to launch.
 

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I wired mine so at full throttle its armed and with the release of the trans brake it activates. But you need a 3 wire trans brake cord to do so. But there is more to my system then just that...Safety. On my car fuel pressure, WOT, and the bottle pressue all have in check so the system will work. If one is not right the system will not activate. FYI for ya
 

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I wired mine so at full throttle its armed and with the release of the trans brake it activates. But you need a 3 wire trans brake cord to do so.
Don't "have" to. Mine is a 2 wire, but I do it all with relays.

The safety circuits mentioned are a good idea as well, but do your research on them. Some do not like the FP shutoffs unless they are on the high pressure side (and some don't even like that.)
 

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Here is another system for the wheelstand/wheelspin problem.
You will need one of the 7531, 8979 or other timing control box's available to use it.

On my first car, early NMCA super modified/outlaw 10.5 with a .046 jet single stage fogger, I used two buttons on the wheel tied to the MSD 8979's (I told you I was old school) violet and tan wires to activate two stages of retard I would usually use the first to pull 2-5 to control wheel spin and set the second one to another 5-7 for situations where I needed to pull a lot more power out of it. This system allowed me to pull 100-300 hp out of the 550hp or so that the .046 jet provided (activated of the transbrake) without totally killing the nitrous or closing the throttle.

Richard Gavle

One note: the pink wire pulled the base timing from 32 to 15 when the music was on, the wheel buttons were only to kill a little power when needed.
 

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I thought about doing that also Richard - it's a good idea.

My 7AL-3 (non digital) has inputs to trigger timing retards also (up to 4 I think) so that type of box works too.
 

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I thought about doing that also Richard - it's a good idea.

My 7AL-3 (non digital) has inputs to trigger timing retards also (up to 4 I think) so that type of box works too.
The 7al-3 can be used in this manner, but it would require a redundant nitrous solenoid or a relay to ground in order for the box to see a ground and not activate the retards full time. The retard functions in the 7AL-3 function when ground is removed.

Martin
 

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Martin,
The 7AL-3's retard when they are removed from ground, or 12 volts is supplied to it...

1. Connect the supplied Brown/White wire from the RET-1 terminal to the 12 volt source
side of the number one nitrous solenoid. With the solenoid not activated, the wire will
be grounded through the solenoid. When 12 volts is applied to activate the solenoid,​
the ground will be removed which will activate RET-1.

Just my two cents... SJ
 
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