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It has been my approach to activate the 2nd (or subsequent) stage of n20 just before the point in the Run where the gmeter (accelerometer) starts to dip. I couple this by observing via the logger graph (Racepak) what the DRPM (driveshaft speed) is doing at that same point in the Run.

What is your approach to applying 2nd or subsequent n20 stages?

My Combo is 69 Camaro 2885# backhalf 25.2 cert Fulton 718 4.61 bore x 5.375 stroke 1.58 1st gear & 3.70 rear gear & MT Radial 295 tire.

Thanks.
 

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It has been my approach to activate the 2nd (or subsequent) stage of n20 just before the point in the Run where the gmeter (accelerometer) starts to dip. I couple this by observing via the logger graph (Racepak) what the DRPM (driveshaft speed) is doing at that same point in the Run.



What is your approach to applying 2nd or subsequent n20 stages?



My Combo is 69 Camaro 2885# backhalf 25.2 cert Fulton 718 4.61 bore x 5.375 stroke 1.58 1st gear & 3.70 rear gear & MT Radial 295 tire.



Thanks.
Whenever I see a glimpse of the bumper by my side window thats when I grab the next kit. Jk

Actually, That makes alot of sense Fofo about using the gmeter.
Looking at adding one this winter and that gives me something to think about its use.

Sent from my RS988 using Tapatalk
 

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With less SLR you are going to have to feed more power in sooner. It's all dependent on the car. You're just going to have to figure it out, but you'll be getting after it sooner than ever previously.
 

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Fo Fo, were you 1.80 before? That's a big difference and it's going to be much smoother off the line, even with the kits activated sooner. I can't wait to see the results. We should be getting some decent air over the next couple of months! Good Luck! I know you'll get it figured out.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
^^^ Thanks thanks & thanks. LOL.

Yes we were 1.80. & now 1.58 Sonnax.

We will be testing this Saturday on the 295 Radials, in advance of going to SGMP, leaving Monday midnight.

Sooooo many changes, but to summarize...

1- Took car to original car builder Rick Stevens Racecars in TX, & he found numerous serious chassis / suspension issues with the car...rear steer, anti roll bar in a bind, crank centerline way too high off the ground, wrong 4 link settings, etc. He lowered the car with 2" drop spindles, & put on new TRZ upper control arms, & fixed the rest of the issues;

2- Fresh engine, after we pushed an exhaust valve stem through the valve cover;

3- Rebuilt Glide with 1.58 Sonnax gear;

4- Steve Johnson went through the Intake completely (earlier this year);

5- MT 295 Radial vs. a MT 33x10.5Wx16 Slick;

6- Split carbs sent to DC Carbs David Cook after we found out that two on the butterflies / blades were bent, & the engine would not idle right;

Saturday will be our first time testing since these changes. Baby steps, starting with 1 kit at a time.

Yes, I agree, the car should have way less mechanical gearing than before, with the tranny & rear gearing & 5.84 SLR. I am hoping I can get the 2nd stage on at .4 seconds, & the 3rd stage at .8 to 1.0 seconds.

I met Kevin Neal at SGMP a number of years ago, & he is the one that told me in order to go faster, focus on the Accelerometer trace, which makes sense, since THAT is the measure of acceleration...and THAT is the objective.

We think we have the right gearing combo now, & the car's chassis tuned in, & the power to roll, but as they say, "Talk is Cheap". If we fail, it is not from a lack of effort (or funding)...

Incidentally, I have a Leash n20 controller, so it is very easy to select the order of the n20 systems & activation times for each, while sitting in the Drivers seat.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
4 link is 38" out & 10" up with bottom 4 link bar UP 5.5*...pretty standard Radial tire setup. Weight is 54% Front & 46% Rear.
 

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Might need a tad more weight up front. Is your fuel tank up front?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Fuel cell & Chiseled Performance water intercooler both up front, & only 10# Go Lithium battery at the rear. Santhuffs front & back.

If the front wants to come up too much, I can always add more power for more initial wheelspeed. 2 step now at lowish 3800, so that can be raised. 1st kit is Viper spraybar 37n27f with -10* (total 20*) AND 6* Launch Retard flat for .50 seconds, & then ramped back in for 1.00 seconds. These are "starting points", until we get some meaningful baseline data to build on. Air & track should be good.
 

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Fuel cell & Chiseled Performance water intercooler both up front, & only 10# Go Lithium battery at the rear. Santhuffs front & back.

If the front wants to come up too much, I can always add more power for more initial wheelspeed. 2 step now at lowish 3800, so that can be raised. 1st kit is Viper spraybar 37n27f with -10* (total 20*) AND 6* Launch Retard flat for .50 seconds, & then ramped back in for 1.00 seconds. These are "starting points", until we get some meaningful baseline data to build on. Air & track should be good.
Are you going to be using wheelie bars?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
To test this weekend Yes, with them (single WB) set "out of the way" at about 8". After that, NO, since they are not allowed in LDR at Duck's race in SGMP.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thank you. We are due for some good luck & good results. Baby steps...
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Yes. Saturday.
 

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^^^ Thanks thanks & thanks. LOL.

Yes we were 1.80. & now 1.58 Sonnax.

We will be testing this Saturday on the 295 Radials, in advance of going to SGMP, leaving Monday midnight.

Sooooo many changes, but to summarize...

1- Took car to original car builder Rick Stevens Racecars in TX, & he found numerous serious chassis / suspension issues with the car...rear steer, anti roll bar in a bind, crank centerline way too high off the ground, wrong 4 link settings, etc. He lowered the car with 2" drop spindles, & put on new TRZ upper control arms, & fixed the rest of the issues;

2- Fresh engine, after we pushed an exhaust valve stem through the valve cover;

3- Rebuilt Glide with 1.58 Sonnax gear;

4- Steve Johnson went through the Intake completely (earlier this year);

5- MT 295 Radial vs. a MT 33x10.5Wx16 Slick;

6- Split carbs sent to DC Carbs David Cook after we found out that two on the butterflies / blades were bent, & the engine would not idle right;

Saturday will be our first time testing since these changes. Baby steps, starting with 1 kit at a time.

Yes, I agree, the car should have way less mechanical gearing than before, with the tranny & rear gearing & 5.84 SLR. I am hoping I can get the 2nd stage on at .4 seconds, & the 3rd stage at .8 to 1.0 seconds.

I met Kevin Neal at SGMP a number of years ago, & he is the one that told me in order to go faster, focus on the Accelerometer trace, which makes sense, since THAT is the measure of acceleration...and THAT is the objective.

We think we have the right gearing combo now, & the car's chassis tuned in, & the power to roll, but as they say, "Talk is Cheap". If we fail, it is not from a lack of effort (or funding)...

Incidentally, I have a Leash n20 controller, so it is very easy to select the order of the n20 systems & activation times for each, while sitting in the Drivers seat.
Definitely will be following the progress you make with these changes as i will have a similar combo. Good Luck
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Thank you. BTW, Neal Chance converter.
 

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Hey fofo, I follow gmeter trace also but I try and turn them on as soon as possible. I also found a lot of times when we had 3 kits we would just make 2 of them bigger and use as much nitrous as did with 3 and it would be faster if track held. On stock suspension radial tire car. When track wasn't there would use 3 kits.
 

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Hey fofo, I follow gmeter trace also but I try and turn them on as soon as possible. I also found a lot of times when we had 3 kits we would just make 2 of them bigger and use as much nitrous as did with 3 and it would be faster if track held. On stock suspension radial tire car. When track wasn't there would use 3 kits.
Were any of your kits banked? I have a progressive for the first stage and the second stage is banked.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Thanks Anthony. Good stuff. My first two systems are "sporty", with 37N & 36N jetting. Those two should make about 750HP, plus the engine. The 3rd system is also sporty, with a 35N jet, but is single noid fogger, about 300 HP. Hope to get 1st on at .00, 2nd at .40, & 3rd at .80..."hope".

We can, but have not, banked our systems.
 
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