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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a question regarding my suspension set up and if there should be any difference between running N/A and with nitrous. I have run the enitre year so far N/A and will be testing the nitrous tomorrow, only 100 and maybe a couple 150 shots. I have a 72 Monte carlo that weighs 3725lbs with me in it. It has stock front suspension and springs with Comp Eng 90/10 shocks. The rear is all adjustable, with double adj. TRZ upper and lower control arms, Anti-roll bar, and stragne double adj shocks. I am running 315/60/15 radials with 15lbs of air pressure. My 60s are consistant 1.620 when it hooks, which it usually does all the time early in the day and in the afternoon, but when sun is directly on the track it doesn't hook worth a shit, like 1.70 or 1.72. I am launching the car at 3600 off the brake, and have a very consistant approach to every time i go down the track for water temp, burnout length etc.
So basically my question is, I am new to the whole double adjustable thing, I was given some advice to start out with real easy compreesion and hard extension to help plant and shock the radials, however I would go one pass of hooking, and one pass spinning with a 8 click setting on compression, and 2 click on extention. For the past two weeks I have run 6 clicks compression and 4 clicks extenstion and seems like it has liked it better, and has preformed the way I described above. So now this weekend I am going to be hitting it with the juice, and want to know if I should change my suspension accordingly??? I have a digital 7 and will be retarding it out of the hole cause I know hooking is going to be my problem. I'm not looking for any hardcore inside advice, just some general ideas to try and what to look out for.

Thanks in advance, Steve
 

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Mine

On mine and most of the radial cars in our class, the settings are dead loose or close to it on the rear on rebound, and compression is around half way between loose and tight. We all run a 275/60/15 though, but they seem to respond better to 15.5 to 17 lbs of air in them. I run mine at 16 now. That's hitting it with a 350 shot and a progressive. Seems like if you really slam it to the ground on the launch and keep it planted it really likes it. Mine went 1.47 last week, on the back tires. So I would say that it's working pretty decent like that now.

Of course every car is different, but just some suggestions.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Well wouldn't what your saying be the opposite of slamming it to the ground if your rebound is loose?? Becasue isn't rebound considered extension of the shock, and compression is when the shock is pushed back into the cylinder on launch? Maybe I'm just an idiot and had it backwards the whole time
 

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You want the extension loose to help with seperation of the car and the tire...Planting the tire.

The compression is stiffer to hold the tire to the ground while the car is transferring weight to the rear...

Does that clear anything up???????
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Ok I feel stupid asking this, however, I think I have had my dials reversed the whole time on the double adjustable shocks that I have, is the dial with the "+ and -" indications the adjustment for compression? And is the dial with just the pointer markings the adjustment for the extension? Or do I have it reversed? So i have been turning the round dial with the + and - on it to about 5 clicks to have a 50% compression, and more clicks to positive would be more compression force correct?

I feel dumb, but have confused the hell out of myself.
 

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Mr. Noisy
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once the track is hot, there is no need to do a big burnout, just turn them until they JUST smoke and roll off the throtle.

i had exactly the same problem with m/t radials. and this fixed the problem.
 
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