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I'm taking deep breaths, and meditating right now. Body work, and paint prep are at 97% done. Painter's wife is having serious cardiac issues, so I'm trying to not have a stroke, and be calm. There is more serious shit happening too, so going with the flow.
So no history with Moogs? I have used 2 sets of Moogs and 2 sets of Santhuffs. Interested in your findings compared to mine
 

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Mike
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No history yet, my old Santhuffs were making like a slinky, and rubbing the Aftco shocks when I was running the small motor(454)
 

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No history yet, my old Santhuffs were making like a slinky, and rubbing the Aftco shocks when I was running the small motor(454)

Could of been an installation issue? Thats not normal.

Hopefully I am not in a nursing home when your car moves on its own :ROFLMAO:
 

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I'm not sure how long it took them to turn into slinky's, but I did have mine slightly out of the pocket on one side and the body size of a santhuff shock was touching. I corrected it before I drove it and haven't had it get any closer since, they've been in there for 5 years now.
 

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Mike
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I did check the clocking in the pockets, it seems related to how much static compression, and the spring had a bow to it. Aftco has carbon fiber shields made for this problem. I moved my top shock hole over slightly too for better clearance. I hope I'm not in a care home before it runs, very frustrating.....The roof, floor pans, and rockers were the only parts not rotted out, so it has been a major endeavor to save this body.
 

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I run a stock style spring in the front as well, just switch to coil overs in the rear 1.24 in the 60 so far. As far as upper control arm angle I found a little trick that I'm not sure everyone can make happen but my frame had it (66 El camino). With the TRZ housing you get 3 positions at the housing, before I say this I want to state first I have had nothing but great service and awesome products from TRZ and my car has all of their stuff front to rear. With their housing and their control arms for their housing I cannot use the lower hole on the housing as the passenger side heim jount will hit the housing just enough to not get a bolt through it. My frame from the factory at the crossmember for the uppers has another hole in it about 3/4 inch above the normal hole, it just needed to be drilled out to 1/2 inch, this change took the upper bar from 15 degrees to 11, then I got rained out so results arent ready yet..... I have a lot of bracing in the car and if you would like to know what I did to brace that crossmember say the word but this post is getting long so I'll cut it off. Like offroadr said, lots of trial and error, been with many setups over a 5 year period, it goes 5.32 at 133 weighing in at 3600lbs so far.
Would you please post up some pictures of your crossmember and bracing? I've been wanting to brace mine. Was hoping Double AA or TRZ woudl come out with an aftermarket tubular adjustable crossmember but no luck. G-body's get all the love haha

Thanks
 

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No problem at all, I'll try to crawl under it and get some pics tonight or tomorrow night. I'm sure I'll get jumped on for this, but I really dont see the need to replace the crossmember with anything aftermarket, with the amount of effort that would take I feel the factory made a pretty good platform to modify from, certainly is easy to brace, just takes some time, and for sure rely's on the roll cage to tie everything together.
 

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Discussion Starter #88
Guys with still "stock" coil springs. What did you do to get your car to set level? Mine is lower on the driver side by about 1/2-3/4 of an inch. I've done some reading and it's a pretty well known and common problem. I was thinking about putting a 1/2 spring spacer under the driver side rear spring and seeing if that helped. Anyone have experience with this?
 

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Discussion Starter #91
It doesn't have an Anti Roll bar, but it will. My chassis guy is going to weld it in for me, just got to wait until the Corona Virus doesn't have everything shut down
 

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The anti roll bar will hold the drivers side down once it's installed because you adjust it with you in the car, then it holds the car there. In your case I don't know but I bring it up because before an anti roll bar mine would hammer the right rear corner pretty hard leaving and started to sag on that side. I swapped the rear springs side to side and they it sat level and didn't seem to do that again in the time it took to put the anti roll in. I get that yours sits the other way but maybe try swapping the springs side to side if it bugs ya.
 

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Buick-racer, how does the front sit side to side? In the past I swapped rear springs with no change in leveling it (or changing it from one side to the other), so I went and leveled the front and the rear followed suit.
 

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Discussion Starter #94
The front also leans to the driver side. My plan was to switch rear springs because it will take about 10 minutes. If that doesn't I'm going to put a 1/2 shim under the driver side front spring. Coil overs would make this a lot easier
 

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I shimmed my drivers front coil. Mainly to even the front with the heavy Procharger on drivers side and myself.

If you correctly pre load the ARB in the rear, the rear will not be level and it should not.
 

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Discussion Starter #96
That makes sense with the Anti Roll bar. I ended up switching the rear coil springs and now it sits level within 1/8th inch or so. It's nice to get free and easy fixes occasionally
 

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Offroadr did your sixty improve with the santhuffs and by how much if you don't mind saying?

Its really hard for me to say specifically. Constant testing things. I can tell you I NEVER got into the 1.30s until I went with Santhuffs
 
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