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Discussion Starter #1
Hello,

I am transforming my current slow bracket street strip car into a slightly less slow street strip car and wanted some advice. It's a 69 Skylark, 3500 pounds, and currently the suspension is pretty stock. Over the winter I plan on swapping out the ten bolt for a built 12 bolt with TRZ adjustable lower control arm brackets and spherical bushings, double adjustable lowers, double adjustable uppers, anti roll bar (all TRZ stuff) and a set of Viking double adjustable coil overs. On the front I plan on running stock control arms with poly bushings, a tall lower ball joint, a bump steer kit, and a viking double adjustable coil over. My question is A) is there anything you think I'm missing, and B) how should I pick what spring rate to go with on the coil overs.

The car has an 8 point Chromoly cage and will have a stroker LS with some nitrous, a turbo 400 with a gear vendors, and the 12 bolt. The goal is to run 9s but have the chassis set up for more later.

Thanks for any advice.
 

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I rather see some strange lightweight brakes up front instead of the coil overs which a lot of people say don't work proper for some reason,even if they did work a good da shock up front works great on mine ive cut 2.5 coils off my front springs to set ride height(stock springs)ive been 1.23 60"
 

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Do not use poly bushings. They bind.
Get delalum from global west.
Do not get coil overs.
Get coil springs and good front shocks
If all your money is gone by shock time
Get afco 80/20 from speedway.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I should have mentioned I have Wilwoods on all 4 corners.

Why don't coil overs work? I've heard that from other people also. Should I do coil overs in the back, or a coil spring and shock as well? I bracket race so I want the thing to hook, I've always been a big fan of having more chassis than needed.
 

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Mike
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After market front, or 6 cylinder springs with DA shocks for the front, TRZ will advise you. Coil overs do not have enough travel, but I have heard of some long travel ones. You can use stock rear springs, or people have used the coil over spring on the stock perches.
 

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Mike
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There are oval Del alum bushings for the dirt track boys if your's are oval lowers. The stock A arms with new bushing will work fine.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
That's good information about front coil overs, I'll use a Moog Spring and DA shock up front. Still on the fence about rear coil overs.
 

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Forget coil overs out back.
Stiff rear springs. Dual adjustable shocks.
The upper frame are I would not trust on A Body to carry that much load where stock shock goes.
Call trz like recommended
I have moog 5379 in rears I think it is.
Been a while. There are others if you want to lower a bit.
I know I do. But they work.
 

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I'm confused at your statement about the coilovers having the same travel. The shock making the lower spring mount makes the spring shorter and lessens the travel quite a bit unless you install those deep top pockets in the frame to correct the spring length. Is there some coilover out there you are using that doesn't have this issue?
 

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Drag Week Survivor
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I'm confused at your statement about the coilovers having the same travel. The shock making the lower spring mount makes the spring shorter and lessens the travel quite a bit unless you install those deep top pockets in the frame to correct the spring length. Is there some coilover out there you are using that doesn't have this issue?
I use an Afco shock with a Conical coil over spring in the stock location up top.

If I went to a true coil over I would probably use the TRZ upper bracket setup.


On my setup I limit front end travel or else it will wheelie alot easier.
 

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Interesting info, I use TRZ arms upper and lower with a santhuff spring and shock. Mine is in a 66 el camino which I don't think in itself is much of a difference. I have a dart block nitrous BBC in mine though so it doesn't take much shock adjustment for the front end to stay down, it's a little heavy up front. Been 1.26 60 foot on a 10.5 slick at 3700 lbs
 

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I'm confused at your statement about the coilovers having the same travel. The shock making the lower spring mount makes the spring shorter and lessens the travel quite a bit unless you install those deep top pockets in the frame to correct the spring length. Is there some coilover out there you are using that doesn't have this issue?
From the sound of what I've read people put coilover without enough power, so it needs the front end to travel to transfer weight and control the hit so it doesn't bounce the rear end
 

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The of using coilovers or not isn't having or not having enough power, the guys that see them not work are seeing it more because of front end weight in my opinion. Less front end weight needs less energy from the spring to assist it in traveling up. While the front can upset the rear and vice versa if you are seeing rear end "bounce" there are a multitude of things that can casue this and again in my opinion using coil overs or traditional spring and shock isn't one of them.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Well now I am a lot more unsure of what front shock/spring set up I am going to use, but I am going to do more research before I buy anything. Thanks for the feedback so far. The wild ride part looks cool, but I would really rather not cut my car up that much if possible.
 

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Up front I recommend a santhuff spring 225-250 and AFCO DAs. I run all TRZ stuff. I agree with the question on how fast. A 10-11sec car is very different from a 7-8.sec car
 
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