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Discussion Starter #1
Are these DMF from the factory?


If yes, is there any downside to solid FW conversion?


Truck is stock and may get a very mild tune for mpg and towing.
 

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All those trucks are DM
Is your DM flywheel making noise?? That's usually why everybody changes them.
Do you know if it still has the DM flywheel in it? If the clutch has ever been done it's probably been converted.

I've converted a lot of these truck over to a solid flywheel, I think every one I did I used a LUK clutch kit. Never any problems with their kit.
You probably won't notice anything.

The last truck that I did had a problem with the clutch pedal, it's a hydraulic system and it self adjusts. The problem was you had to push the pedal all the way to the floor to get the clutch to release. The fix was I had to make an adjustable rod between the slave cylinder and fork, it needed to be about 1" longer to make the pedal right.

I
 

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Discussion Starter #3
All those trucks are DM
Is your DM flywheel making noise?? That's usually why everybody changes them.
Do you know if it still has the DM flywheel in it? If the clutch has ever been done it's probably been converted.

I've converted a lot of these truck over to a solid flywheel, I think every one I did I used a LUK clutch kit. Never any problems with their kit.
You probably won't notice anything.

The last truck that I did had a problem with the clutch pedal, it's a hydraulic system and it self adjusts. The problem was you had to push the pedal all the way to the floor to get the clutch to release. The fix was I had to make an adjustable rod between the slave cylinder and fork, it needed to be about 1" longer to make the pedal right.

I

First - I thought it was the slave - changed the whole hyd system. At this point never heard any noise.



It was better but certainly not like I would expect. I've never owned one of these so I had nothing to compare it to. My son took the truck to school this morning and all clutch control is gone and it make noise.



My guess is it has never been done 288k miles. Runs perfect.

I was looking at Luc or Velaro ( i think)



Thanks Gdogg.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Idles fine no noise, will not go into gear. Shut it off and it growls.



My guess it is the DMF.
 

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Have somebody work the clutch and watch the slave cylinder, see if it working right, the see how much slop it has before actually starts to work the pressure plate. I've seen the fork break where it pivots on the ball.
 

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Also is the release point of the clutch really close to the floor?


Some of those trucks use to break the firewall, Ford use to sell 2 different repair kits, one for light damage and 1 for severe damage.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Also is the release point of the clutch really close to the floor?


Some of those trucks use to break the firewall, Ford use to sell 2 different repair kits, one for light damage and 1 for severe damage.

Yes close to floor, did that after replacing pedal box bushings and hyd system.


I think I am going to pull it all apart, put a new clutch in it, new fork, clean it all up and be done with it.



Leaning towards a ceramic disc but not to extreme. Something suitable for a DD.
 

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With the pedal releasing close to the floor I'm thinking you have either a fork problem or slave cylinder problem. First check and see if the rod between the fork and the slave cylinder is long enough, it none adjustable. If it's to short that can cause the problem you have. I make adjustable rods from a couple of bolts and a threaded rod coupler nut, works perfect. If that's your problem I'll explain how to make it.


With 288 on it I don't think your going to find a DM flywheel in it, it's probably been changed already.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
With the pedal releasing close to the floor I'm thinking you have either a fork problem or slave cylinder problem. First check and see if the rod between the fork and the slave cylinder is long enough, it none adjustable. If it's to short that can cause the problem you have. I make adjustable rods from a couple of bolts and a threaded rod coupler nut, works perfect. If that's your problem I'll explain how to make it.


With 288 on it I don't think your going to find a DM flywheel in it, it's probably been changed already.

Is it "normal" once service parts have been installed that you need an adjustable rod?



Do you use grade 8 hardware?
 

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Is it "normal" once service parts have been installed that you need an adjustable rod?



Do you use grade 8 hardware?
Well, it's not suppose to be normal, but that's what it takes to fix them.

It doesn't have to be grade 8
 

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I didn't use the original rod.

I took a nut for coupling threaded rod together, 3/8
Then two 3/8's bolts, 1 about 1/2 long and the other depends on how long you need to make your new rod, I think the last one I did was a 3/8x1-1/2 long bolt

I used a drill and spun the bolts on a belt sander to round the head, just like the original rod ends
once you round the heads of the bolts thread the short bolt in one end of the nut and tighten it up
Then take the long bolt and put a regular 3/8's nut on it first for a jam nut
Then thread the long bolt in the other end of the nut, now you can put it in place of the original rod and adjust it to the correct length and lock it with the jam nut.

That worked perfect for me, the release on the clutch pedal was right where it needs to be.

IDK why the clutch needs this done but it has solved the problem for me
The last one I did came in for a clutch because you had to push the pedal all the way to the floor to release it, I figured the fork was broke, it wasn't, the fix was making this longer adjustable rod.
 

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So I'm thinking about why this is a problem
The only explanation I can think of is the solid flywheel and new clutch has a different stack up height, the measurement between the surface the flywheel mounts to the crank to the throwout bearing touches the fingers on the pressure plate. That would chance the pivot angle of the fork and the require the longer rod, it has to be something like that.

That truck I did that had this problem I even used a .050 shim between the crank and flywheel.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
So I'm thinking about why this is a problem
The only explanation I can think of is the solid flywheel and new clutch has a different stack up height, the measurement between the surface the flywheel mounts to the crank to the throwout bearing touches the fingers on the pressure plate. That would chance the pivot angle of the fork and the require the longer rod, it has to be something like that.

That truck I did that had this problem I even used a .050 shim between the crank and flywheel.

Intereesting all good info for when I take this apart.



Putting the trans back into my sons TDI JEtta today, slave ( inside) leaked all over the clutch.
 

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I tried a valeo solid flywheel kit about 15 years ago and it vibrated like it was out of balance(vibrated the shifter handle and seat like it had the wrong balance on it) pulled it and got another kit and it was the same way. took it back and got a DMFW and clutch kit and all was good again. I am due for another flywheel and clutch soon, curious if they have gotten that problem fixed? At the time, everybody a talked to said they where all like that, And I would have to use the DMFW if I wanted a smooth engine?
 

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The DMFW came out in 1988 on the 7.3 IDI, As far as I know I've used a solid flywheel on every clutch job since and can't remember ever having a balance problem, So that was kind of odd you had a problem. I'd get a complete kit if I was you, Valoe or Luk, no reman or individual pieces. It's probably a good idea to change the fork also, those can break where they pivot on the ball stud.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
The DMFW came out in 1988 on the 7.3 IDI, As far as I know I've used a solid flywheel on every clutch job since and can't remember ever having a balance problem, So that was kind of odd you had a problem. I'd get a complete kit if I was you, Valoe or Luk, no reman or individual pieces. It's probably a good idea to change the fork also, those can break where they pivot on the ball stud.

I see the original Ford fork is not available. Have you just bought an aftermarket one?
 

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I see the original Ford fork is not available. Have you just bought an aftermarket one?
I must have.

Rockauto shows a Luk, I don't think you will have any problems with it.
Just compare both forks and make sure they are identical.
 
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