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Considering putting 904 lifters in our new build. What's the advantage of using bronze bushings over just boring the block to size. Ran our .842" lifters in iron with no problem so I'm wondering what I'd get out of bushings... Thanks
 

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I had mine done this year, and went with bushings. Advantage to the bushings is if you hurt one, it can be replaced, and the bronze has less friction than cast iron...Done properly however, you'll never see any difference, but it's my preference to bush the bores. As I said before, if you hurt one, it's easy to replace the bushing. Otherwise you have to get it bushed anyway to repair it......
 

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Considering putting 904 lifters in our new build. What's the advantage of using bronze bushings over just boring the block to size. Ran our .842" lifters in iron with no problem so I'm wondering what I'd get out of bushings... Thanks
You can tailor oil hole size and placement in the lifter bore if you think it's necessary.
 

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Considering putting 904 lifters in our new build. What's the advantage of using bronze bushings over just boring the block to size. Ran our .842" lifters in iron with no problem so I'm wondering what I'd get out of bushings... Thanks
Rarely ever put bushings in for .904 lifters as long as they are fitted with the proper clearance of .0014 to .0019 the lifters always come out looking like new.

I charge 780.00 to install and hone to size bushings VS and up grade to a .904 runs 275.00

I like putting in bushings as there is very good money in that process but Like I said no need to when going to a .904 or .875 Roller lifter.

.904 lifter very quite a bit between manufactures and every lifter should be measured for size as some companies have not figured out how manufacture lifters and keep them with in a few tenths.

Which ever way you go make sure the lifter bores are honed and not a reamed finish.
 

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YUP to CNC BLOCKS REPLY..depends on which block.just be certain that the block itself is thick enough or else the extra loading can break away the too thin casting..
 

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Check in your area, theres a builder that told me dart blocks should be bushed. Said the blocks are too hard and will damage the lifters.
Said the block should be bushed. I felt that my budget was not being well taken care of because of this and looked for a different builder.
I dont have 500-600 to spare because its a profitable job for your shop (as stated above) Just my .02, thought you might be intrested?
 

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Check in your area, theres a builder that told me dart blocks should be bushed. Said the blocks are too hard and will damage the lifters.
Said the block should be bushed. I felt that my budget was not being well taken care of because of this and looked for a different builder.
I dont have 500-600 to spare because its a profitable job for your shop (as stated above) Just my .02, thought you might be intrested?

I machine a lot of Dart blocks and so far bushing are not needed if clearanced properly and to date ZERO problems.
 

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Carl did my block and we stayed steel and the lifters were great. When I hurt the motor and messed up a couple lifter bores, I had to go with Bronze, and it has been fine now as well. That said, the machining is very important in this area. Had a local guy try to clean up a lifter bore, and we stuck a lifter in that bore the first time out.
 

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I machine a lot of Dart blocks and so far bushing are not needed if clearanced properly and to date ZERO problems.
The bullet is awesome!!! I had started a thread a while back. The conclusion was correct fit is the key. I have since purchased a smaller bore guage so l can conferm the lifter bore size.
Thanks again to the Bullet!!!!
Be safe, schick
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Check in your area, theres a builder that told me dart blocks should be bushed. Said the blocks are too hard and will damage the lifters.
Said the block should be bushed. I felt that my budget was not being well taken care of because of this and looked for a different builder.
I dont have 500-600 to spare because its a profitable job for your shop (as stated above) Just my .02, thought you might be intrested?
I haven't heard Dart blocks being to hard, but I've heard the lifter bores run tight. My last Dart, we had to hone them a bit to get the clearance right. Never had a problem, but those were .842 lifters with a fairly small cam (blown alcohol). New deal is going to be a mid-level effort 565 nitrous combo. I think I'll have the block bored/honed for .904s without bushings. Thanks all!!
 

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David, Carl did my original 572 build. Did not bush the lifter bores, new had any issues. Lifter looked great after 3 seasons.
 

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I haven't heard Dart blocks being to hard, but I've heard the lifter bores run tight. My last Dart, we had to hone them a bit to get the clearance right. Never had a problem, but those were .842 lifters with a fairly small cam (blown alcohol). New deal is going to be a mid-level effort 565 nitrous combo. I think I'll have the block bored/honed for .904s without bushings. Thanks all!!
This builder is in the Sacramento area. Has a very good rep for doing very nice stuff. I was shocked after l researched the subject.
Best of luck on your build. Be safe, schick
 

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I haven't heard Dart blocks being to hard, but I've heard the lifter bores run tight. My last Dart, we had to hone them a bit to get the clearance right. Never had a problem, but those were .842 lifters with a fairly small cam (blown alcohol). New deal is going to be a mid-level effort 565 nitrous combo. I think I'll have the block bored/honed for .904s without bushings. Thanks all!!
I don't let a Dart block of any new block out of the shop with out checking lifter bores for size.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
David, Carl did my original 572 build. Did not bush the lifter bores, new had any issues. Lifter looked great after 3 seasons.
Kjell, what lifter did you guys run? I've seen the new Jesel's and they are so nice ... until you hear they are $1600 a set. I'm leaning towards Morel's but still undecided. Want to hand them to the machinist so he can set the bores accordingly....
 

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Kjell, what lifter did you guys run? I've seen the new Jesel's and they are so nice ... until you hear they are $1600 a set. I'm leaning towards Morel's but still undecided. Want to hand them to the machinist so he can set the bores accordingly....
They were Morel lifters.
 

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the lifter bores are purposely made undersize because the lifters all vary in size from each maker.. there is no way to know what size the lifter is untill you get them in your hand....and actually measure them.as carl has stated....oftentimes in a box of new lifters, there can be aS much as .0007" difference from one to the other..we usually bitch and get a select size out of two or three sets...this also will enable the machine shop to check the size of each bore after the engine runs a bit, and he should allready have a recorded size of the lifter body.
 

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THEN THERE IS NO FINGER POINTING WHEN A LIFTER GALLS OR PULLS OUT A BUSHING....I have reciently used a vibe pencil to write the actual diameters in the block / valley...
 

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Anybody ever run into lifter bore angle issues? When fixturing, did anyone ever get a bind on a Dart block? This is on a Dart IE 351 block with Cleveland mains.
 

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Anybody ever run into lifter bore angle issues? When fixturing, did anyone ever get a bind on a Dart block? This is on a Dart IE 351 block with Cleveland mains.
What is meant by you saying bind?

So far no issues with Dart blocks as far as lifter bore positioning I use a CNC machine to machine with IMHO is more accurate the fixtures.
 
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