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Ok, me and the boy stuck a 89 351W in his 89GT stang, fkr has always run hot, bought new aluminum rad, still runs hot, after reading up on a few builds I was wondering if the W/P we put on his is the wrong rotation for his timing cover.
Had a helluva time finding a W/P that worked with his serpentine set-up if I remember correctly.

Heres a pic
 

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I just bought a standard rotation water pump,as Iam getting rid of the power steering,and its is identical in every way to the one in the pic. Going by that and not a part number,you need a reverse rotation water pump. I may have one for sale here soon,its all smoothed out and powdercoated gloss black. But to check first do you have the part number off that pump?
 

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Ok, me and the boy stuck a 89 351W in his 89GT stang, fkr has always run hot, bought new aluminum rad, still runs hot, after reading up on a few builds I was wondering if the W/P we put on his is the wrong rotation for his timing cover.
Had a helluva time finding a W/P that worked with his serpentine set-up if I remember correctly.

Heres a pic

In the trafik or on the highway ??
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I'll get that part # on the pump tomorrow, it was raining today.

Few more thoughts....

The motor gets warm real quick and stays warm.
There's no way the car could be street driven cause it gets so warm, being that we only drag race, it's manageable but I'd still like to get a handle on it.

Thanks for the replys>Cp
 

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how long has this motor been together, are the HG's positioned with the water ports open at the back...

u need a reverse rotation pump if that aint one... i have a brandnew frpp reverse rotation pump... ordered the wrong one... PM me if u need it.
 

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since the basic appearance of a flat /serpentine belt is installed.... the pump should rotate reverse of the crank...

the front cover should also be specific to a reverse rotation pump, because the inner port inside the cover is different....even though all of the bolt locations are the same as a "same as crankshaft rotation" pump.

as said, one or both of the head gaskets could be on backwards...

also, on that note,....
there are specific gasket " water steam hole" locations for certain heads...
so, you just cannot put "just any" head gasket in there...

first primary issue usually is that there are air voids in coolant..
so, most will position the drivers front tire up on a 4X4 board and run the pump to blow out air from the system...

which exact heads and block along with what exact head gasket part number is in this setup..
?????
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Heads are eldebrock performers - block is a 89 351W out of a truck.
We bought the motor complete so I dont know about the head gaskets postioning.

When I say it runs hot I mean it aint never boiled over or anything like that, but it dont take long for it to get around 200, 5-10 mins tops on a warm day.

At the end of a 1/8 mile pass (summer) it's always around 220-240 and its a struggle to get it back down to 160 especially in the later rounds.
The motor runs great and is suprisingly consistent, he won alot money with it last year and went to 2 finals in only his second season.
I'd just like to get running cooler, betweens rounds he uses my pit fan on it and I want it BACK! lol


I'll check the rotation of the pump and get that part# if it aint raining today.

Thx>Cp
 

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Jus by looking at your pic ,Id suggest a higher cfm fan like the black magic fan or one that cover more of the radiator surface...I had a mild built 302 (in a fox mustang) that I ran with electric fan from auto zone it cooled just fine. I installed a mild built 351w in the same ride it would run alot hotter until I upgraded the fan.. What temp thermostate are you running? To help out try a bottle of water wet from redline..
 

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Yes, 220-240 is pretty hot for a drag car at the end of the 1/8 mile. My engine is a 363 with a bunch of turbo stuff blocking airflow and I never see those type of temperatures, at the track or on the street.

Besides what's been said already, how big is your crank pulley? I'm not a big fan of the little ones.

One more thing, how sure are you of the temperature gauge accuracy?
 

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Iam still shooting at the wrong water pump.
Come on, give the water pump a break. Even if it is the wrong one I don't know if it deserves to be shot at...;)
 

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I have to also wonder if you have the correct pump. A water pump from a stock 5.0 mustang is what you want with that configuration. On my 418, I had the same setup you do, with a generic parts store pump, a MK8 fan and DCC controller, and an aluminum radiator.
Even on the hottest days of summer, it never broke 200.
 

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Only reason Iam saying the water pump is I just bought a Standard rotation pump from autozone and it looks in every way,even the stamped logo on the front there,the same. You need a reverse rotation for the serpentine setup. I could be completely wrong but thats why i asked if you could throw a part number up.
 

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the contour and shape of the internal fins of impeller are different....

the passageways of front cover and the port is different.

the bolt patterns are the same and even the gaskets are similar, so it is easy to get the wrong one.


in all cases,...you may need more fan or airflow.

drag cars run well with a totally seperate water pump that does not operate off of the serpentine belt.

this also allows you to circulate water in staging lanes to cool down.
it also allows you to pre heat the water on cold days by running engine, but not circulating water.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Jus by looking at your pic ,Id suggest a higher cfm fan like the black magic fan or one that cover more of the radiator surface...I had a mild built 302 (in a fox mustang) that I ran with electric fan from auto zone it cooled just fine. I installed a mild built 351w in the same ride it would run alot hotter until I upgraded the fan.. What temp thermostate are you running? To help out try a bottle of water wet from redline..
160* stat in it now, already use water wetter, it only helped marginally.
Agreed more fan or better air control would probably help, but Ive seen less fan on way faster motors that don't run as hot as this one does, so that has me leaning towards the wrong water pump.
Thx>Cp
 

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Discussion Starter #20
how sure are you of the temperature gauge accuracy?
Not completely certain, but I think it's close.
It is electrical guage, not mechanical and I suspected it right away but after fiddling around with the car awhile, it gets real warm and it gets there real quick so I suspect it aint too far off.

I know heat dont help them motors live any longer, this has been a good one, I want it to last so I've gotta fix it.

Still rainey here, maybe today I can get that part number.
Who has a reverse rotation pump for sale again?:cool:

Thx again>Cp
 
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