Due to my lack of interest in this car, I’m putting it up for sale.
1984 Mustang L. The car was stripped down to bare metal, primed, blocked (the whole car), and painted with beautiful Nissan Daytona Blue by Standox. Trim and accents are DP40 satin black. The front cover was soda blasted and refinished. The front fenders are new. The original doors had some rot in the bottom seams, so the doors are later model rust free. Under the hood was painted black metallic. The hood no longer fits since the head/intake/carb upgrade, but I still have it.
I’ve owned this car over 20 years and bought it to race and be a show car. It won best in class the first time out. The body work is flawless, the paint is flat, and its beautiful to look at. I bought it with a blown up 4 cylinder and installed a 472” Ford big block.
I’m a mechanic by trade for almost 40 years, and I built the engine myself, with the machine work done by Auto Machine in St Charles IL. I have early a429 heads on it, with ARP studs, a Victor Intake, Holley 1050 Dominator and a hydraulic flat tappet Comp Cams cam, grind XE284H. The valve train was all set up right, with Crower Enduro Rocker arms and custom length pushrods. Pistons are forged Speed Pro at 10.5:1 Compression. The bearings are Clevite racing bearings and the rods are truck rods with new ARP studs. All hardware is ARP and new. The rotating assembly was balanced. The mains are studded as well. There is a windage tray, a stock volume Melling oil pump, and ARP oil pump shaft. MSD Pro Billet mechanical advance distributor and MSD Digital 6AL ignition with an E-Core type coil. Also have a wide band A/F gauge installed. There is a 12 gal fuel cell, a Mallory 140LPH fuel pump and A/N stainless braided fuel line. The headers are Hooker swap headers, with 40 series Flowmaster mufflers exiting under the car.
The trans was built by Proformance Trans in Elburn IL. It was built with the heavy duty sprag, and the clutches and steels are upgraded. Reverse manual valve body and a transbrake as well. The converter is a 2800 stall. There is a B&M Supercooler, plumbed with A/N Stainless braided line. The yoke and driveshaft have 1350 U-Joints. The rear end is a Ford 8.8” With Moser 31 spline axles, a Trac Loc differential built with carbon fiber clutches. Strange adjustable rear shocks. Stifflers trans crossmember and drive shaft loop as well. There is also an aluminum rear end cover/girdle. The lower control arms are D&D Motorsports and the uppers are QA1 adjustables. The rear end has spherical bearings.
The interior is 90% done. It has new headliner and carpet. The interior plastics were all dyed black. I have all the pieces for the interior to be 100%. I also have new hardware. The electronics and wiring are all inside the cabin, and tucked away under the hood. The wiring needs to be cleaned up under the dash, which is an aluminum Jeg’s that was trimmed to fit. There is no heater. It has an 8 point roll bar installed, and subframe connectors welded in. The seats are stock and the rear seats were taken out and I made a “fastback” style floor for the rear of the car. The door panels are Scott Rod black aluminum. The Optima red top battery is in the trunk.
It has manual steering and brakes. The master cylinder is mounted with a Steeda adapter, and the rod angle is right, so pedal effort is not bad at all, neither is steering effort. The brakes are 4 wheel discs from a 2000 GT, and all calipers, pads and rotors are new. It has Hawk performance brake pads up front. The emergency brake cables are new Lokar units. The wheels are stock 99 GT spoked with new tires. Drag radials are mounted in the rear. There are caster/camber plates in the front. There is a QA1 tubular crossmember, and stock lower control arms that were modified and boxed in for tire clearance.
I also have a lot of parts that I accumulated over the years that will go with it. Spare Griffin radiator, freeze plug kit, a spare Holley 850 Double Pumper, and boxes of carb parts.
I’m not naïve and I understand that I will not get back close to what I have in it, but I’d like to get 18k for it. It does need work in finishing the interior, and the tune needs to be dialed in. I’m having a hard time getting it right, which is part of my frustration. The cam was broken in, the oil changed, and that’s all that’s been done since the cam and top end have been changed.
1984 Mustang L. The car was stripped down to bare metal, primed, blocked (the whole car), and painted with beautiful Nissan Daytona Blue by Standox. Trim and accents are DP40 satin black. The front cover was soda blasted and refinished. The front fenders are new. The original doors had some rot in the bottom seams, so the doors are later model rust free. Under the hood was painted black metallic. The hood no longer fits since the head/intake/carb upgrade, but I still have it.
I’ve owned this car over 20 years and bought it to race and be a show car. It won best in class the first time out. The body work is flawless, the paint is flat, and its beautiful to look at. I bought it with a blown up 4 cylinder and installed a 472” Ford big block.
I’m a mechanic by trade for almost 40 years, and I built the engine myself, with the machine work done by Auto Machine in St Charles IL. I have early a429 heads on it, with ARP studs, a Victor Intake, Holley 1050 Dominator and a hydraulic flat tappet Comp Cams cam, grind XE284H. The valve train was all set up right, with Crower Enduro Rocker arms and custom length pushrods. Pistons are forged Speed Pro at 10.5:1 Compression. The bearings are Clevite racing bearings and the rods are truck rods with new ARP studs. All hardware is ARP and new. The rotating assembly was balanced. The mains are studded as well. There is a windage tray, a stock volume Melling oil pump, and ARP oil pump shaft. MSD Pro Billet mechanical advance distributor and MSD Digital 6AL ignition with an E-Core type coil. Also have a wide band A/F gauge installed. There is a 12 gal fuel cell, a Mallory 140LPH fuel pump and A/N stainless braided fuel line. The headers are Hooker swap headers, with 40 series Flowmaster mufflers exiting under the car.
The trans was built by Proformance Trans in Elburn IL. It was built with the heavy duty sprag, and the clutches and steels are upgraded. Reverse manual valve body and a transbrake as well. The converter is a 2800 stall. There is a B&M Supercooler, plumbed with A/N Stainless braided line. The yoke and driveshaft have 1350 U-Joints. The rear end is a Ford 8.8” With Moser 31 spline axles, a Trac Loc differential built with carbon fiber clutches. Strange adjustable rear shocks. Stifflers trans crossmember and drive shaft loop as well. There is also an aluminum rear end cover/girdle. The lower control arms are D&D Motorsports and the uppers are QA1 adjustables. The rear end has spherical bearings.
The interior is 90% done. It has new headliner and carpet. The interior plastics were all dyed black. I have all the pieces for the interior to be 100%. I also have new hardware. The electronics and wiring are all inside the cabin, and tucked away under the hood. The wiring needs to be cleaned up under the dash, which is an aluminum Jeg’s that was trimmed to fit. There is no heater. It has an 8 point roll bar installed, and subframe connectors welded in. The seats are stock and the rear seats were taken out and I made a “fastback” style floor for the rear of the car. The door panels are Scott Rod black aluminum. The Optima red top battery is in the trunk.
It has manual steering and brakes. The master cylinder is mounted with a Steeda adapter, and the rod angle is right, so pedal effort is not bad at all, neither is steering effort. The brakes are 4 wheel discs from a 2000 GT, and all calipers, pads and rotors are new. It has Hawk performance brake pads up front. The emergency brake cables are new Lokar units. The wheels are stock 99 GT spoked with new tires. Drag radials are mounted in the rear. There are caster/camber plates in the front. There is a QA1 tubular crossmember, and stock lower control arms that were modified and boxed in for tire clearance.
I also have a lot of parts that I accumulated over the years that will go with it. Spare Griffin radiator, freeze plug kit, a spare Holley 850 Double Pumper, and boxes of carb parts.
I’m not naïve and I understand that I will not get back close to what I have in it, but I’d like to get 18k for it. It does need work in finishing the interior, and the tune needs to be dialed in. I’m having a hard time getting it right, which is part of my frustration. The cam was broken in, the oil changed, and that’s all that’s been done since the cam and top end have been changed.
