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Interesting... I have an 8 quart Canton Road Race pan on my 306. I run 7 quarts in it. It shows one quart low on the factory dipstick. Have run the pan for decades, but have also run the oil restrictor kits Price Motorsport Engineering use to sell. Also only shift at 6800 rpm. Never an issue.

However... The upcoming 363 will rev a bit higher... probably at least 7500 rpm, so I'd be interested in any experience or words of wisdom you'd like to share. Which Canton pan are you running?
I believe it was a Canton 15-610 with a windage tray. Like I said, it worked great for years until I started pushing more rpm. When I first started getting oil in my tank I switched the draw location from the front of the valve cover to the top. That helped a lot but still got a 1/3 of a cup of oil every pass. Never got a drop running on the street or during the 20ish pulls we made on the dyno so I did a little test. I put a 90 degree elbow in the valve cover at the base with a foot of clear hose. We threw it on the pump and made a pull to 8,200. Everything was fine until the rpm went above 7k. It was filling the covers up! It's a Dart SHP block and so it doesn't come machined for restrictors, we'll drill and tap our own. If the oil level still gets high (shouldn't), I'll just run drain lines from the heads to the pan to help.
 

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Turn mine 6000 or so and use a factory 1993 ford pan. 6qts no issues.
I run the factory pan with the extra large filter, with 5 quarts. Reads 1 quart low on the factory dipstick.

Interesting... I have an 8 quart Canton Road Race pan on my 306. I run 7 quarts in it. It shows one quart low on the factory dipstick. Have run the pan for decades, but have also run the oil restrictor kits Price Motorsport Engineering use to sell. Also only shift at 6800 rpm. Never an issue.
With the factory pan running 1 quart low, I shift at 7200.

When running 1/8 mile, I have stayed in second gear on purpose. Even with the factory pan and a hydraulic roller, it revved cleanly past 8000 with steady oil pressure.
 

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We saw some oil pressure fluctuations on the Dyno with 7 quarts in my pan, also picked up a few hp after taking out a quart
 

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I run the factory pan with the extra large filter, with 5 quarts. Reads 1 quart low on the factory dipstick.



With the factory pan running 1 quart low, I shift at 7200.

When running 1/8 mile, I have stayed in second gear on purpose. Even with the factory pan and a hydraulic roller, it revved cleanly past 8000 with steady oil pressure.
What lifters and valvesprings pressure?
 

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i run a 7qt on my ls stuff,factory though they only use 5.5qts..i figured if that is plenty for ls an been proven to be enough capacity why stick 7 in my 7qt pan an cause windage..so 5.5 is all i use in mine an turn them 7k+
 

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What lifters and valvesprings pressure?
Comp 851, which is nothing more than a stock replacement Elgin lifter.

Springs are 1.48 OD. Originally, they were 180 closed and 470 open. I'm sure that they are a little lower now. They came with the cam from CI in a white box. Probably from Associated Spring.
 

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Discussion Starter #31
Yes. 8.2 SBF 3.4 stroke now 4.155 bore
Basically same motor then. Im 4.040 bore I guess really just need to know where the oil needs to be on the crankshaft really to determine oil level. Everyone in here has contributed something positive and constructive but it baffles me that there is still a mystery to how much oil an 8.2 deck motor needs with a 7 qt oil pan. It’s still very controversial. I feel like with my own findings (without disagreeing) that 5.5-6 is a plenty? Who knows I guess.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Problem is I’m willing to take some chances on the street motor but don’t wanna take any chances on racecar. Way too much invested and 7qts has been working but not sure to full potential.
 

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You don’t want the oil anywhere near the crank. It whips enough around creating an aerated mess just with the shit raining down on it. You need enough in the pan so the pickup won’t come uncovered and start sucking air.
 

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The idea of a deep pan is not to add more oil its to get the oil farther away from the rotating assembly. I have a big double kick out Moroso aluminum pan on my engine. It could probably hold 8 qts. I run 6 qts usually and if I need to pick it up I run 5. It has a screen windage tray which is supposed to be better than a solid one. No problem with oil pressure even at near 9K in the lights. Standard pressure and volume oil pump.
I always thought the idea was to add capacity to avoid draining the pan and to have cooler oil. But good points you made here.
 

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For my AMX, I just had a custom pan made by Pro-Pan in Oklahoma. Very good to deal with. It’s 8” deep front to back and sizable kickoff on passenger side. It would probably had 30 quarts. But 10quarts is approximately 2.5” from the bottom and that keeps the oil plenty from the crank yet enough to keep the pickup covered all the time. I have external filter and external pickup so there’s over a quart lost in the lines and then the filter. Same pan on a buddies car was worth over 2 MPH on a high 8 second car. Think about how much HP it takes to go +2 MPH. How much would you spend on the engine hard parts to realize 2 MPH?
 
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