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Discussion Starter #1
Looking for some real world experience or input on how much oil these pans require on a stroker SBF or any engine really. I've wondered a few times over the years if 7qts is too much for a 347 stroker. I have 2 of them both with 7qt pans, now on the street car with 7 qts it will burn/use around 3/4 to a 1qt of oil fairly quickly say 500-700 miles after it hits a certain level it stops, the level doesn't change and I don't notice any smoking. Now my racecar it sees 7500-8000rpms I don't keep the oil in the car long enough to tell if it eats any so hard to say if does or not. Both have Melling hv pumps, I've run across some threads where folks say they run 5qts,because that's what the engine was originally intended to run off of and that the purpose of a large pan to help with windage on a stroker motor. Some say they run 6qts. I'm also kinda thinking I should add a windage tray on my racecar to also help? What's some opinions?
 

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The idea of a deep pan is not to add more oil its to get the oil farther away from the rotating assembly. I have a big double kick out Moroso aluminum pan on my engine. It could probably hold 8 qts. I run 6 qts usually and if I need to pick it up I run 5. It has a screen windage tray which is supposed to be better than a solid one. No problem with oil pressure even at near 9K in the lights. Standard pressure and volume oil pump.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
Thats kinda the theory I was reading. I see Canton offers a screen style windage tray for my motor, I believe I’m gonna try one of them and maybe a qt lower in oil. Seems like 7 is too much if my street car will eat oil until down to almost six and stop. It also seems to leak oil when it has 7 too meaning it’s pushing it out.
 

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Are you venting the crankcase? All my leaks and oil consumption, boost control problems went away after I put a -12 on each valve cover.. It also changed my tune and made it lean, so I had to add more fuel which means it now makes more power with that simple mod.


Oh yeah, I have a Moroso 7 qt and run 7 qts.. My short travel Lifters don't like dirty oil..
 

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What happened? You pretty sure 1qt low is what caused the issue?
Depends on the volume of the pump. A high volume pump in a SBC is in danger of pumping the pan dry if in a 1/4 mile run, at 10,000, or above with only 5 quarts, I’d say at 6 or 7,000 you’d be safe at 6 quarts, but that’s just me.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Yeah the crankcase is vented on racecar but street car is still pcv setup with baffles and a catch can. Catch can stops filling up after the oil level drops too.
 

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It has a screen windage tray which is supposed to be better than a solid one.
Oil pan screens and solid trays each have different primary purposes and also offer different changes to the dynamics of crankcase windage. Which of them is utilized (or both, or neither) depends on a number of specifics relating to engine combo, application, etc. In most cases, i feel the tray has greater overall benefits and the addition of a screen to be secondary, but as usual that’s not always the case.
 

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The trick is to figure out where the oil ends up in relation to the crankshaft. I stick the dipstick in the block with the motor upside down on the stand with no pan on it. Look to see where I want the oil in relation to the crank/windage tray. Other way is to measure the pan and pour the 6 or 7 qts of liquid in the pan and see where it ends up.
 

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The trick is to figure out where the oil ends up in relation to the crankshaft. I stick the dipstick in the block with the motor upside down on the stand with no pan on it. Look to see where I want the oil in relation to the crank/windage tray. Other way is to measure the pan and pour the 6 or 7 qts of liquid in the pan and see where it ends up.

X2
 

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One has a Canton the other has a Milodon
What happened? You pretty sure 1qt low is what caused the issue?
I never had a problem with my Canton pan when I shifted at 7,200 but when I put a real cam in it that would peak at 7,900 I started spinning it to 8,200 and be around 8,3000 at the stripe. Even with a standard volume pump, it would fill the valve covers and burp oil through the vacuum pump at the stripe. Something we didn't have an issue with on the dyno as there where no negative G's and didn't catch it on the gauge. I was more annoyed with the oil burping than realizing it had an issue so the plan was to add drain back lines and figure out the issue after the season was over. The bearings had other ideas so it took itself apart at the stripe. The extra quart may have kept it together, don't know......
 

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I never had a problem with my Canton pan when I shifted at 7,200 but when I put a real cam in it that would peak at 7,900 I started spinning it to 8,200 and be around 8,3000 at the stripe. Even with a standard volume pump, it would fill the valve covers and burp oil through the vacuum pump at the stripe. Something we didn't have an issue with on the dyno as there where no negative G's and didn't catch it on the gauge. I was more annoyed with the oil burping than realizing it had an issue so the plan was to add drain back lines and figure out the issue after the season was over. The bearings had other ideas so it took itself apart at the stripe. The extra quart may have kept it together, don't know......
Interesting... I have an 8 quart Canton Road Race pan on my 306. I run 7 quarts in it. It shows one quart low on the factory dipstick. Have run the pan for decades, but have also run the oil restrictor kits Price Motorsport Engineering use to sell. Also only shift at 6800 rpm. Never an issue.

However... The upcoming 363 will rev a bit higher... probably at least 7500 rpm, so I'd be interested in any experience or words of wisdom you'd like to share. Which Canton pan are you running?
 
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