I am putting my 68 vw baja back together somewhat I have it for sale, to fund other projects. That said this is not a for sale ad. just putting up what I am doing to it since it is not your everyday car build.
So far bought it as a rolling chassis and purchased a extra engine a 1600 cc dual port engine, put on a new clutch today around 2pm, picked up front seats from a 2002 for fusion to put in it. It came with two fiberglass off road seats. I am getting ready to put the engine back in in the next day or so.
the only pics I have are on craigslist and since I am not advertising it here I don't want to link to them will see if I can get them on a online host somewhere.
title does not seem what I wanted to say lol. I am working on it just not restoring it. this has a fiberglass kit on it called a bug eye kit. I am turning it into a running driving car, I am putting in the engine and new seats and putting on new tires and wheels.
got the new seats cleaned up and ready to go into the bug in replace of the old fiberglass one's, new clutch is installed. I need to get some exhaust pieces painted and then this thing will be ready to go back together and running. I need to get the malibu rolling again so I can get this in the garage and finish it or find a way to move the malibu over so I can get both in the garage.
got the engine back in with help today, also got half the exhaust installed and got the electric fuel pump mounted and half the fuel line installed. should have it running tuesday barring any problems. will be ready for the stick shift drags at bandimere next saturday.
bug is running great. New clutch is a little softer then I prefer won't use that brand again even if it is said to be the best stock replacement, I used sachs supposed to be made in Germany lets just say not impressed will look at other options for the next clutch. I am gonna be putting a aftermarket fly wheel in her with 8 dowls when this clutch burns out.
Kennedy makes some decent clutch assys but for the time being using what you have is the smart move. With the 4 dowel setup if it bites too good it will shear the dowel pins and wreck the crank and flywheel. The butt of the crank is a machined surface so if there is any damage there it will cause runout on the flywheel. I would also recommend spending the money for a better gland nut to retain the flywheel to the crank. There are some really knowledgeable guys out near you , I think Eric Madson is out that way , A guy who has been racing for years who can help/save you a lot of money. There are aftermarket flywheels out there but in my opinion the stock vadiam steel is the best for your application. It is what I used on my 400 plus hp turbo engine until I went to a double disc Ron Lummis set up. The aftermarket cast flywheels explode under abuse . Hope you have fun .
Mike McCarthy
I know a few guys back east that run bugs, I know one in ohio that is turbo low budget deal or was any way. I never really messed with these things for racing always kinda just a toy lol. The race I was trying to make had several bugs in it from what I was told by a friend that made it to race. I am new to the air cooled racing so, I have much to learn but I knew about the 8 dowl pin being better. I watched a video the other day on swapping out the gland nut and resetting crank play using aftermarket parts.
Great, sounds like you are heading the right direction. I have drilled stock crankshafts for 8 dowels with the engine assembled but it takes patience and a little effort . It is a lot of fun for very little money at that level of racing , we have had a blast doing it since 1985 .
Thanks for the advice.
I been researching as much as I can, nice thing is parts for these are pretty cheap compared to say my bbc in my malibu. I was looking at Porsche axles. The trans in it now is supposed to be out of a early 914 but I can not confirm that, it is IRS and looking on the bugget and a samba they make some good axles for these. They are not as strong as the swing arm style though from what I read and this trans has 2 case ribs? and one of the things I read is you want a van trans that is 4 rib? Not sure about that.
This thing has what vw guys call a freeway flyer transmission. It is supposed to be a pretty good unit. still have not had the funds to get her to the track yet.
When they talk about the number of ribs on the transmission case they are actually talking about the transmission from a late model VW bus. It uses a larger outside diameter ring and pinion so it is stronger than a type 1 trans like you have. In order to put one in your car requires some special mounts / parts but is substantially stronger than a type 1 trans.. I have a 400 plus hp turbo car and I am still using a type 1 transmission but with the swingaxle setup rather than IRS like yours. Both are good and both can be made to handle a lot of HP. To me the clutch package is more important than the the transmission. The free way flier usually means that you have a higher gear ratio 4th gear . What I would recommend is a 3.78/2.05 stock main shaft trans with the 3.88 ring and pinion , all stock parts. I use stock 3.88 r/p in my turbo car so they are pretty tough .I will be happy to point you in the right direction on anything you want to do VW wise , maybe even save you some money .Mike McCarthy
yes the high ratio 4th gear is supposed to be better for 1/4 mile then the other or so I was told as it lets you run it out the back better then the bus trans. Not sure if that is true but will get her to the track next friday and see how she does. I am not expecting much with a stock engine and trans.
Sounds like you are having fun at the very least. Are the tracks you go to all 1/4 mile ? I have never run a 4th gear that tall in a race car before , but I was also not running a stock engine either so my opinion will not help you . Something to think about is removing your fan belt in the staging lane and run the car down the track without it . Stop after your pass and put the belt back on, very east to do and will free up some noticeable HP .
so I have the turbo for the turbo build and have the holley 2bbl carb got my eye on the intake manifold it is a draw through. so starting to get ready to turbo her. I got a fuel issue it is getting a lot of fuel in the gas. I believe it may need a regulator the pump is a vw specific low pressure pump but it seems to be flooding the engine. any way that is all so far.
I would definitely run a regulator . The Chassis Shop makes a nice manifold , there is no dip below the carb for the fuel to puddle in like some cheaper manifolds. http://s91.photobucket.com/user/dragvw2180/library/
this is the manifold I use on 4 barrels carbs made by the Chassis Shop .
That looks like a 4" inlet , what size inlet do you have on your turbo ? It is hard to tell if the inside of the intake drops below the round tube or if it is actually flush with the bottom in the picture. If I come across an intake cheap I will let you know. Mike
it is 3" where it goes to the turbo and my turbo has a 3" opening. I am putting dual carbs on it for now, while I gather turbo parts.
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Related Threads
?
?
?
?
?
Yellow Bullet Forums
23.7M posts
139.3K members
Since 2005
A forum community dedicated to drag racing drivers and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about racing, builds, pro mods, hot rods, events, turbos, nitrous, superchargers, and more!