Well car did make one pass it ran a 18.65 at 72mph. I want to go 13's at least so it would take more boost then this little 1600cc could take lol. looking to do the subaru swap looking at a 2.0 jdm ej203 from a importer and thinking microsquirt to control it. then if I want to go faster later on the tdo4e turbo I got for the 1600cc will be a good fit since that is the turbo that comes on the 2.0l subaru engines. After talking to the local air cooled vw guys they got way more in their air cooled engines to go 12's then I can affored I thought a turbo and 7-8 psi Would get me there but they are saying no would need 12-14lbs boost and most say this 1600cc is only good to 8 in stock form with high rev springs and pump gas. I would need to run e-85 to go to 10-12lbs and that might be too much boost.
I had not seen your posts , I could have helped . The stock carb has an idle jet located near the choke assemble, a hex brass screw that plugs up VERY easily. I understand you are on a tight budget but keep your eyes on this web site and you may be able to find a set of rear disc brakes , https://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/ . I have used them on my race car and buggies also . I think I have a 2 barrel Dellorto setup for blow thru turbo carbs with manifold that might work better than the progressive carb. Intake manifolds freezing in the winter is pretty common, next winter try ducting some hoses from under the pushrod tubes to your air cleaner . It will preheat the air and help with the freezing . Dual carbs with their short manifolds pretty much end it . Many guys run a low pressure electric fuel pump like a Facet with good results , https://www.ebay.com/itm/Facet-FEP4...100856&hash=item1a784ae01d:g:VGIAAOSwCyVcjDVi .Make sure you have a good vent on your fuel tank . Hope some of this might help , Mike
well good and bad news for the air cooled bug. First did not do subaru swap as it was more then I figured. Second current 1600cc is low on compression in cyl #3 it is showing 90psi but goes up to 150psi if you put oil in it. other cyl. all show 120psi so engine needs rings min, so I ordered 88mm pistons and cyls the thick one's that slip fit at block and machine at heads to 90.5/92mm, I ordered nylon pin keepers as I have snap locks. I ordered new wheel bearings for both rears inner and outer plus seals and clips. looking at a new rear disc brake kit with my gm bolt pattern. only thing with disc is not finding a 12mm/7/16" studs. my lug nuts are 7/16" and don't wanna have to order 12mm nuts as I am using weld wheels that take special long shank nuts. Any way next thing I am looking at is either AA aftermarket heads with 40mm/35.5mm valves and dual springs. or get my heads fixed and milled to fit new jugs. After talking to the machine shop the AA heads are the cheaper route. They are $455. Machine shop wants $500. to fix the broken exhaust studs, mill out heads, new valves, new springs, and true up all surfaces. in the end my offer my stock dual port heads up on ebay or craigslist to try and offset cost of new heads.
engine is running great, just pulled it back out to put on new mounts and add a kafer bar and transmission mid mount. pulling the axles to put in new wheel bearings. also got a new aluminum short shift kit. so should be all ready to get down this weekend once I flush the new gas tank, and all the little stuff gets finished.
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