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Discussion starter · #42 ·
Discussion starter · #44 ·
know a guy looking but he wants a fully assembled and done motor.
 
I will have a 2332 turbo engine that will be dynoed and tuned by Dave Kawell in a few weeks for sale. Guaranteed 400 HP that you can drive on the street , a clone of my engine in my car that I drive . Mike McCarthy
 
Discussion starter · #46 ·
I will have a 2332 turbo engine that will be dynoed and tuned by Dave Kawell in a few weeks for sale. Guaranteed 400 HP that you can drive on the street , a clone of my engine in my car that I drive . Mike McCarthy
I he was looking for a stock 1600 dual port nothing too fancy he has a light weight sand rail and does not want to put too much into it.
 
Discussion starter · #47 ·
well update never got her to the track tow vehicle broke down anemd then a string of things made it so I just could not get it there, the carb decided to take a dump again not sure why but it just won't stay working have rebuilt it twice but still it acts like it is not getting enough fuel at idle you have to keep pumping the carb to get it to run. then it just dies randomly. I will try and get a new carb this winter, engine itself runs good from what I can tell I am no expert on air cooled vw's but when it was running last summer it seemed to pur like a kitten.
 
Discussion starter · #48 ·
well gathering parts for my home built turbo for this car. kinda glad I went stock clutch now so it will slip a little and make it easier on the transmission. lol but any way will update with pics of parts when I get them.
 
Discussion starter · #49 ·
Considering going with A weber 32/36 carb for the blow thru but not sure on that yet, right now just want a reliable carb the one on it froze up this winter and now it won't idle again the pict 34-3 is a finicky carb lol any way not had time or money to do much with it. but looking at picking up the 32/36 just for now, I know the pinto guys from over the pond had decent luck making these carbs preform with turbo's on the ford stuff so been doing some reading on that. Any way that is all for now.
 
Discussion starter · #50 ·
So I picked up a weber 32/36 and intake. looks in decent nick, was running on a vw bus at one point looks pretty black inside so was running real rich. it has one confirmed 140 jet on the secondary side, cannot read the primary or the air bleeds also the idle jest are un readable. So I ordered a kit with everything in it based off of John @ aircooled.net's advice and write up on that site, also from emails with him. gonna start with a 127/175 main jets, 42/52 Idle jets, 180/200 Air bleeds. I wish I had the money for a wide band lol. any way wish me luck guys hoping to have better luck with this seup then the old pict 34 carbs I have rebuilt several times. This carb came with a rebuild/repair kit from the local VW place in Denver it is empi brand but gonna use it for the parts and gaskets needed. This kit has the gaskets/rubber parts for use with modern ethanol fuels.
 
Discussion starter · #51 ·
Tore apart the weber 32/36 and found it to have been running super rich. It has a really large needle and seat never seen a weber 32/36 or holley 5200 series carb with that big of one. Looked it up, seems it is made for running this style carb on e-85 or for turbo use for more fuel flow to the bowls. Some of the jets are unmarked and seem to have been drilled out. So I am glad now that I decided to order a complete jet kit assortment and start from scratch. Gonna put some o-rings on the throttle shafts to seal them before putting boost to it.
 
Discussion starter · #52 ·
So if any onr cares about this project and it's progress, I soaked the carb starting on Thursday in white distilled vinegar that got a good amount out of it but did not completely clean it so it got a can of cabr cleaner and some mineral spirits run through it still was not clean enough so I soaked the smaller parts and chock linkage in 70% alcohol over night, and soaked the carb body and top in PB blaster over night friday. Went out today and it was a ton cleaner looks like they was running e-85 or another alcohol type fuel from the residue in the carb only type of fuel I seen that leaves that kinda residue. Any way i bottle of 70% alcohol and 2 cans of break clean later it looks like brand new all ports are completely cleaned out and she is all reassembled and jetted for the 1600 air cooled in the jets John from air cooled said to start with. had some linkage binding got rid of that and am building a new linkage that will use the stock cable without cutting the end off and should make the angle from the carb to fan shroud less of a bind.
Any wy waiting on a full engine gasket set from erling to reseal the engine since it needs it any way and I have to pull the generator to swap intakes anyway. Wish me luck might just get this car to the track if not this month then next just to get a pre boost time slip to base line it on. Still got some weight removal to do but will get it weighed once it is turn key again.
 
Discussion starter · #53 ·
Had a bad valve cover leak on passenger side has a repop cheap valve cover gonna get some aluminum bolt on when have the extra scratch. trade for 5.0 is off. guy decided he needed cash more then another toy. no big deal gonna finish getting this car race ready have to install a nutrual safty switch on the clutch pedal. and put in some longer wheel studs. any way it is moving along and running great. now with no oil leaks.
 
Discussion starter · #54 ·
Well all the wasted time on used carbs was a bust. the 32/36 weber I got had a bad shaft and was leaking air. So I bought a brand new carb from Pierce Manifold it is a 32/36 as well but new, engine sounds good and is running great now. This engine has a cam in it for sure now, it refuses to idle below 950rpm even with new everything. Gonna recheck timing, re gap plugs again and just go over it some more before I run it friday at test and tune. wish me luck guys. might finally get it to the track. lol
 
Discussion starter · #55 ·
bug is running great with the new carb but still slow lol. made 42whp. I think with my limited budget it is time for a subaru swap. looking at a 96 2.5l in a outback. gonna double the HP in one fell swoop.
 
Discussion starter · #56 ·
Deal fell through on the subaru swap no big deal.


I did find my big fuel problem, and of course it was my fault! I had put a cheap plastic fuel filter after pump and before the carb it was restricting flow to the carb it idled great but left me on the side of the road twice. Removed it and put a pressure gauge in place of it to see what was going on and she is running top shelf. Put a new metal in line filter right after the pump it has a pre pump filter that came with the pump. Any way 2 fuel filters later and it is flowing fuel, but that little pump and stock 5/16" fuel line will get replaced with (2) 3/8" lines one for feed and one for return with the new regulator and pump she is getting. First thing though getting new wheel cylinders and new rear wheel bearings as the right is grinding and so just gonna change both inner and outer on both rear with seals.
 
I had not seen your posts , I could have helped . The stock carb has an idle jet located near the choke assemble, a hex brass screw that plugs up VERY easily. I understand you are on a tight budget but keep your eyes on this web site and you may be able to find a set of rear disc brakes ,
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/ . I have used them on my race car and buggies also . I think I have a 2 barrel Dellorto setup for blow thru turbo carbs with manifold that might work better than the progressive carb. Intake manifolds freezing in the winter is pretty common, next winter try ducting some hoses from under the pushrod tubes to your air cleaner . It will preheat the air and help with the freezing . Dual carbs with their short manifolds pretty much end it . Many guys run a low pressure electric fuel pump like a Facet with good results , https://www.ebay.com/itm/Facet-FEP4...100856&hash=item1a784ae01d:g:VGIAAOSwCyVcjDVi .Make sure you have a good vent on your fuel tank . Hope some of this might help , Mike
 
Discussion starter · #58 ·
I had not seen your posts , I could have helped . The stock carb has an idle jet located near the choke assemble, a hex brass screw that plugs up VERY easily. I understand you are on a tight budget but keep your eyes on this web site and you may be able to find a set of rear disc brakes ,
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/ . I have used them on my race car and buggies also . I think I have a 2 barrel Dellorto setup for blow thru turbo carbs with manifold that might work better than the progressive carb. Intake manifolds freezing in the winter is pretty common, next winter try ducting some hoses from under the pushrod tubes to your air cleaner . It will preheat the air and help with the freezing . Dual carbs with their short manifolds pretty much end it . Many guys run a low pressure electric fuel pump like a Facet with good results , https://www.ebay.com/itm/Facet-FEP4...100856&hash=item1a784ae01d:g:VGIAAOSwCyVcjDVi .Make sure you have a good vent on your fuel tank . Hope some of this might help , Mike
I have a MrGasket pump similar to that on there now. but since I am gonna turbo it next year, I will be upgrading pumps and the new one will require a regulator for sure with this carb. I know the ford guys run these carbs with the 2.3l and turbo's.

I know a lot of air cooled guys like the dellorto carbs. I set this carb up with the help of John from air cooled.net he knows them pretty well. The stock pic 34 was trash, I checked the air jet your talking about. The second carb I got a brazilian pic 34 had bad floats. Everyone I talked to about these carbs liked them but the first one I got was junk still have it. The new one from pierce manifolds works great, but I found out that sitting all winter the filters clogged up. blew the line out and put in new filters, now the pump is week but working.

I will keep a look out for the disk breaks want to upgrade to all disc later. Right now just trying to get it safe to run.
 
Discussion starter · #59 ·
So while I was in the hospital, ups, usps, and fedex was busy. I got a new re-pop fuel tank, new -8an fittings and so now the entire fuel system is new. and ready to be installed. I am installing a return fitting in the re-pop tank. old tank sat and rusted back out. got new engine/trans-mounts. new exhaust is on. thing is almost ready to roll N/A. it is slow but getting there, spending $40 bucks a month on it and that seems to be getting it closer then trying to save and buy the parts all at once.
 
Discussion starter · #60 ·
got to clean out the new tank, it has a protect-ant in it that has to be removed. was thinking acetone or vinegar.
 
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