yes the high ratio 4th gear is supposed to be better for 1/4 mile then the other or so I was told as it lets you run it out the back better then the bus trans. Not sure if that is true but will get her to the track next friday and see how she does. I am not expecting much with a stock engine and trans.
Sounds like you are having fun at the very least. Are the tracks you go to all 1/4 mile ? I have never run a 4th gear that tall in a race car before , but I was also not running a stock engine either so my opinion will not help you . Something to think about is removing your fan belt in the staging lane and run the car down the track without it . Stop after your pass and put the belt back on, very east to do and will free up some noticeable HP .
Sounds like you are having fun at the very least. Are the tracks you go to all 1/4 mile ? I have never run a 4th gear that tall in a race car before , but I was also not running a stock engine either so my opinion will not help you . Something to think about is removing your fan belt in the staging lane and run the car down the track without it . Stop after your pass and put the belt back on, very east to do and will free up some noticeable HP .
so I have the turbo for the turbo build and have the holley 2bbl carb got my eye on the intake manifold it is a draw through. so starting to get ready to turbo her. I got a fuel issue it is getting a lot of fuel in the gas. I believe it may need a regulator the pump is a vw specific low pressure pump but it seems to be flooding the engine. any way that is all so far.
I would definitely run a regulator . The Chassis Shop makes a nice manifold , there is no dip below the carb for the fuel to puddle in like some cheaper manifolds. http://s91.photobucket.com/user/dragvw2180/library/
this is the manifold I use on 4 barrels carbs made by the Chassis Shop .
That looks like a 4" inlet , what size inlet do you have on your turbo ? It is hard to tell if the inside of the intake drops below the round tube or if it is actually flush with the bottom in the picture. If I come across an intake cheap I will let you know. Mike
That looks like a 4" inlet , what size inlet do you have on your turbo ? It is hard to tell if the inside of the intake drops below the round tube or if it is actually flush with the bottom in the picture. If I come across an intake cheap I will let you know. Mike
kind of skimmed over your build. in type 1 box with stock gears youll be shifting into fourth on a 26" tire at the strip on 1/4 mile track. type 2 is far stronger by a mile because the pinion and ring gear mesh with two teeth vs one as in type 1 box. what kills a box in an instant is at the hit. so as you put power to it look to get some clutch slippage and dont get aggressive with the release as its just bracket racing. type 1 box will last a while if your easy on it and run a cms setup.
as far as axles go, i think lummus has some decent aftermarket axles if your going swing, if IRS then there is a set of Folts axles, tubes, etc for a grand right now for sale on FB vw page.. these typ. cost about 2200 new as a set.
you might look or call AJ at low bugget for info .. he is good guy and can help you out. CB has some great stuff too.
for clutch's there are a few options, if you get a Kennedy, be prepared to get it surfaced after you run it a little bit. for whatever reason they cup immediately. if your going to push some power you can look at J&G. if your pretty much stock motor with little upgrade, maybe look at F&s plate and cushlok disk, four puck.. all depends on what your doing and how much money you want to spend.
id pass on that intake and look on samba, contact shag or low bugget for 2 barrel intake.
its easy to go blow lot of money unnecessarily. personally, if you go turbo just look to run high 10 or low 11 and enjoy it. shoot for 10.60 index or 11.60 index type of deal. once you start to want to go sub 10's then it will add up, maintenance, down time, etc and the fun goes away and next thin you know your building a v8 haha.
there is a great group of races in the mountain area there and have a five or six race event and run in SLC, denver, grand junction, NM (somewhere). those guys can help you out too.
the cheap empi epc 34 ict's it is all I can afford right now. I really was gonna buy a new holley 2bbl or use the one off my boat lol but decided not to take the one off the boat and a new holley xp I want is 500+ new so got this kit, up here where the air is thin these are said to work pretty good as you want velocity vs volume. I will find out. I thought about buying another pic34 for now but they are so close in price went the dual route, guys I talked to local said duals weather single or double work better up here. With this being a stock 1600cc should not need a lot of carb most where saying to try and find some 36mm deltoro's or 40mm HPMX or 40mm webers. could not find any I could afford. I will have to jets these down for the altitude any way.
you posted while I was typing lol. I am shooting for low13's high 12's. The turbo I have is good for about 10lbs boost on the jeep liberty crd it comes off so figured maybe 6-10lbs max on the bug engine. I was looking at low buggets intake and their ignition system.
My trans is out of a newer bug but I have no idea what year or anythingelse about it other then what I was told they call it. lol It is the single sided case and is IRS.
Guys at the track last weekend told me should be good N/A but said I should up grade to a LSD once I go turbo for the 4 pinion gears over the 2 I have now. Also told me I need to upgrade to porsche 536 aftermarket axles. They said this case is pretty good because it is stronger having only one side cover. They advised me to get a kennedy stage 1 clutch once I get a new 8 dowel pin fly wheel and get the crank drilled for the extra dowels. I am pretty sure right now it is a 17 second car maybe? I will find out once I get working carbs lol.
you posted while I was typing lol. I am shooting for low13's high 12's. The turbo I have is good for about 10lbs boost on the jeep liberty crd it comes off so figured maybe 6-10lbs max on the bug engine. I was looking at low buggets intake and their ignition system.
My trans is out of a newer bug but I have no idea what year or anythingelse about it other then what I was told they call it. lol It is the single sided case and is IRS.
Guys at the track last weekend told me should be good N/A but said I should up grade to a LSD once I go turbo for the 4 pinion gears over the 2 I have now. Also told me I need to upgrade to porsche 536 aftermarket axles. They said this case is pretty good because it is stronger having only one side cover. They advised me to get a kennedy stage 1 clutch once I get a new 8 dowel pin fly wheel and get the crank drilled for the extra dowels. I am pretty sure right now it is a 17 second car maybe? I will find out once I get working carbs lol.
well... single side cover is usually 3.88 ring and pinion which is the one everyone wants becuase it has the biggest teeth of the three for type 1. just get a super dif, you dont need to spend the money on LSD. if your on a budget i would plan on a super beetle main shaft, get super dif, and then if anything have third and fourth welded. after market mainshafts are 7 to 12 hundered (light duty vs hd) and gears are generally about 250 a set. axles, you can use sway a way's. if your gonna stay IRS then just get HD stub axles for trans as if you hit it hard and dont have clutch mgmt youll prob snap one assuming you upgrade the internals as suggested. personally id put a swing box in it. the super dif is less money, axles are cheaper etc. you can change teh spring plates to swing and just get tubes and your good. have to use a dif trans case which is no big deal. just find a core and use your ring and pinion.
concerning the motor.. here is where you need to think ahead a bit. if your gonna 8 dowel the crank imo your gonna tear the motor apart to do it correctly. might as well just get a counterweighted crank thats already 8 dowel and throw it in. there are a gazillion options you go with.. but since your going to turbo it. just get stock 69mm counterweighted crank, throw that in and lightened fw. rodney from rad designs has stock 1600 blow through setup and is almost into the 11's i think with stock bus trans. actually, you might call him to pick his brain a bit. seee what he did to stab the bus trans in his bug.
id invest in solid shaft's rockers. they are cheap and good insurance. there is a lot more but those are two things i would do min.
might look at some kadron's they are great carbs and 40mm i think. AJ i think sells them too.
once you tear into the trans or motor and want to hop it up a bit, cost adds up quick. one thing you might do for now is just get the turbo setup on and running.. just play with the car till something breaks but have couple grand on hand to fix it the right way once it does. if the fly wheel shears off just get new crank.. like 250 bucks. but youll spend a grand minimum putting the motor back together even if stock.
ignition, check out CB performance black box (i think). or just get a msd 6al and a good coil for now with an 009 dizzy.
the cheap empi epc 34 ict's it is all I can afford right now. I really was gonna buy a new holley 2bbl or use the one off my boat lol but decided not to take the one off the boat and a new holley xp I want is 500+ new so got this kit, up here where the air is thin these are said to work pretty good as you want velocity vs volume. I will find out. I thought about buying another pic34 for now but they are so close in price went the dual route, guys I talked to local said duals weather single or double work better up here. With this being a stock 1600cc should not need a lot of carb most where saying to try and find some 36mm deltoro's or 40mm HPMX or 40mm webers. could not find any I could afford. I will have to jets these down for the altitude any way.
I found out they thought I was getting different carbs they now say these are a waste of money lol got a local pace to rebuild my solex pict 34-3. I am sending the empi epc 34 kit back to the seller, I have my reasons like empi basically telling me to get lost when I asked questions about the carbs.
well... single side cover is usually 3.88 ring and pinion which is the one everyone wants becuase it has the biggest teeth of the three for type 1. just get a super dif, you dont need to spend the money on LSD. if your on a budget i would plan on a super beetle main shaft, get super dif, and then if anything have third and fourth welded. after market mainshafts are 7 to 12 hundered (light duty vs hd) and gears are generally about 250 a set. axles, you can use sway a way's. if your gonna stay IRS then just get HD stub axles for trans as if you hit it hard and dont have clutch mgmt youll prob snap one assuming you upgrade the internals as suggested. personally id put a swing box in it. the super dif is less money, axles are cheaper etc. you can change teh spring plates to swing and just get tubes and your good. have to use a dif trans case which is no big deal. just find a core and use your ring and pinion.
concerning the motor.. here is where you need to think ahead a bit. if your gonna 8 dowel the crank imo your gonna tear the motor apart to do it correctly. might as well just get a counterweighted crank thats already 8 dowel and throw it in. there are a gazillion options you go with.. but since your going to turbo it. just get stock 69mm counterweighted crank, throw that in and lightened fw. rodney from rad designs has stock 1600 blow through setup and is almost into the 11's i think with stock bus trans. actually, you might call him to pick his brain a bit. seee what he did to stab the bus trans in his bug.
id invest in solid shaft's rockers. they are cheap and good insurance. there is a lot more but those are two things i would do min.
might look at some kadron's they are great carbs and 40mm i think. AJ i think sells them too.
once you tear into the trans or motor and want to hop it up a bit, cost adds up quick. one thing you might do for now is just get the turbo setup on and running.. just play with the car till something breaks but have couple grand on hand to fix it the right way once it does. if the fly wheel shears off just get new crank.. like 250 bucks. but youll spend a grand minimum putting the motor back together even if stock.
ignition, check out CB performance black box (i think). or just get a msd 6al and a good coil for now with an 009 dizzy.
Been looking at the super diff thing is right now I have no money to tear things apart. I herd about the stubs but did not know witch one's to swap to , Have no idea what sway a ways are. where do you get the stub axles you speak of? I been searching around only found the super diff on a few sites aircooledvw,net is one place have not found many trans upgrade parts.
As far as 8 dowel goes I am getting the jig and drilling it in the engine and getting a forged 4140 light weight fly wheel as soon as funds permit, prolly in the next few months if I can swing it. I only have so much a month I can spend.
Right now I don't have all the parts to turbo it all I have is the turbo its self. This is just a toy Not looking to spend a lot on it gonna stretch it out over time.
well... single side cover is usually 3.88 ring and pinion which is the one everyone wants becuase it has the biggest teeth of the three for type 1. just get a super dif, you dont need to spend the money on LSD. if your on a budget i would plan on a super beetle main shaft, get super dif, and then if anything have third and fourth welded. after market mainshafts are 7 to 12 hundered (light duty vs hd) and gears are generally about 250 a set. axles, you can use sway a way's. if your gonna stay IRS then just get HD stub axles for trans as if you hit it hard and dont have clutch mgmt youll prob snap one assuming you upgrade the internals as suggested. personally id put a swing box in it. the super dif is less money, axles are cheaper etc. you can change teh spring plates to swing and just get tubes and your good. have to use a dif trans case which is no big deal. just find a core and use your ring and pinion.
concerning the motor.. here is where you need to think ahead a bit. if your gonna 8 dowel the crank imo your gonna tear the motor apart to do it correctly. might as well just get a counterweighted crank thats already 8 dowel and throw it in. there are a gazillion options you go with.. but since your going to turbo it. just get stock 69mm counterweighted crank, throw that in and lightened fw. rodney from rad designs has stock 1600 blow through setup and is almost into the 11's i think with stock bus trans. actually, you might call him to pick his brain a bit. seee what he did to stab the bus trans in his bug.
id invest in solid shaft's rockers. they are cheap and good insurance. there is a lot more but those are two things i would do min.
If I do anything with the engine I am gonna build a new bigger engine. Already looking at 82mm crank, aftermarket aluminum case with aftermarket rods, mahle pistons, and jugs.gonna port my stock dual port heads for the new engine till I can afford CB performance heads. cam will be a turbo grind if and when I build a new engine. I am gonna run this one stock it does have solid rocker shafts already nothing else is done to it.
I would just drill it for now engine runs great and I am not tearing it apart until it breaks.
I found out they thought I was getting different carbs they now say these are a waste of money lol got a local pace to rebuild my solex pict 34-3. I am sending the empi epc 34 kit back to the seller, I have my reasons like empi basically telling me to get lost when I asked questions about the carbs.
Been looking at the super diff thing is right now I have no money to tear things apart. I herd about the stubs but did not know witch one's to swap to , Have no idea what sway a ways are. where do you get the stub axles you speak of? I been searching around only found the super diff on a few sites aircooledvw,net is one place have not found many trans upgrade parts.
As far as 8 dowel goes I am getting the jig and drilling it in the engine and getting a forged 4140 light weight fly wheel as soon as funds permit, prolly in the next few months if I can swing it. I only have so much a month I can spend.
Right now I don't have all the parts to turbo it all I have is the turbo its self. This is just a toy Not looking to spend a lot on it gonna stretch it out over time.
sway a way manufactures axles, torsion bars, etc. the least expensive way to do this is convert to swing axle. requires dif case, dual side cover.. but its a stock trans so just get another stock trans and stab it in. buy some HD swing axles, and your good to go (for a while).
considering what your doing, just leave it alone. you wont make enough power to hurt anything for a while. if you did anything get something to slip the clutch a little at the launch so that initial hit doesnt break anything. you can make your own hydraulic clutch mgmt system for about 100 bucks. just get biondo line lock and a parker flow control valve.
sway a way manufactures axles, torsion bars, etc. the least expensive way to do this is convert to swing axle. requires dif case, dual side cover.. but its a stock trans so just get another stock trans and stab it in. buy some HD swing axles, and your good to go (for a while).
considering what your doing, just leave it alone. you wont make enough power to hurt anything for a while. if you did anything get something to slip the clutch a little at the launch so that initial hit doesnt break anything. you can make your own hydraulic clutch mgmt system for about 100 bucks. just get biondo line lock and a parker flow control valve.
This clutch is so soft I really wish I had got a kennedy. The clutch in it now is brand new but just does not grab like I would have thought a new clutch would should have just got a pressure plate and reused the old clutch it is sitting on the shelf and is still good but the pressure pate was older style and would not fit this transmissions throw out bearing.
She runs!!!! I rebuilt both carbs but the German solex would not idle no matter what I did, so I rebuilt the spanish carb I bought local it is newer and seems it need a good cleaning and a new float. It runs does not smoke idles at 900-1000rpm and revs nice. gonna put those EPC34's right back on the UPS truck lol any way very happy it is running properly finally. Just hit the key and she fires right up.
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