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Discussion Starter #1
I have 08 F450. I bought it based on the tow rating. It's only purpose it for towing so it sits a fair amount. The idea was to shake out any issues and get it paid off before we retire. We are retiring soon and got the paid off part done but still fight Ford on issues

1 Integrated trailer brake failed on a run while towing a 18,500# trailer. FIXED, loose wire under the dash.

2 Cruise control intermittant. FIXED loose wire under the dash.

3 batteries run down and need to jump start if truck sits for two weeks. The first complaint was "fixed" by telling me that the truck has a lot of electronics and needs to be run weekly to charge up the batteries. The second complaint led to a draw down test. Supposedly within tolerance 4-12 milliamps, but no actual printout of test. At this point I had added a remote start, alarm, turbo time shutdown combo and a backup camera. Also power for a rear hitch winch. All done proper and nothing powered with key off. I still occasionally had to jump the truck if I didn't drive it for a couple of weeks. Recently we added a gearvendors, installed by camping world. Well it wouldn't start after sitting with a 1/2amp charger on it for better then a week. I got the shop 200amp booster and started it. took it to the dealer and now they are claiming it's drawing 170millamps and won't touch it until i pull the aftermarket wiring. This problem has been there since day one. Total BS, what do i do? Are their more loose wires?

I had an oil leak too. The same dealership saw the oil stains, did a dye test and informed me they couldn't find the leak! I went to another dealer in another town and they said it was the oilpan/block O-ring. Warranty deal, cab came off and they fixed it. No problem.

Lastly, the exhaust filter cleaning cycle starts from the beginning if it doesn't complete a cycle. Recently, every friggin time I drive the truck it goes into a cleaning cycle. Lots of white smoke, is this normal? I don't remember seeing it before.

So now what do I do about Riverside Ford? I bought the truck there, paid 55K with taxes and license. it tows great, but I'm sick of jumping it.

Thanks YBers
Mike
 

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I have 08 F450. I bought it based on the tow rating. It's only purpose it for towing so it sits a fair amount. The idea was to shake out any issues and get it paid off before we retire. We are retiring soon and got the paid off part done but still fight Ford on issues

1 Integrated trailer brake failed on a run while towing a 18,500# trailer. FIXED, loose wire under the dash.

2 Cruise control intermittant. FIXED loose wire under the dash.

3 batteries run down and need to jump start if truck sits for two weeks. The first complaint was "fixed" by telling me that the truck has a lot of electronics and needs to be run weekly to charge up the batteries. The second complaint led to a draw down test. Supposedly within tolerance 4-12 milliamps, but no actual printout of test. At this point I had added a remote start, alarm, turbo time shutdown combo and a backup camera. Also power for a rear hitch winch. All done proper and nothing powered with key off. I still occasionally had to jump the truck if I didn't drive it for a couple of weeks. Recently we added a gearvendors, installed by camping world. Well it wouldn't start after sitting with a 1/2amp charger on it for better then a week. I got the shop 200amp booster and started it. took it to the dealer and now they are claiming it's drawing 170millamps and won't touch it until i pull the aftermarket wiring. This problem has been there since day one. Total BS, what do i do? Are their more loose wires?

I had an oil leak too. The same dealership saw the oil stains, did a dye test and informed me they couldn't find the leak! I went to another dealer in another town and they said it was the oilpan/block O-ring. Warranty deal, cab came off and they fixed it. No problem.

Lastly, the exhaust filter cleaning cycle starts from the beginning if it doesn't complete a cycle. Recently, every friggin time I drive the truck it goes into a cleaning cycle. Lots of white smoke, is this normal? I don't remember seeing it before.

So now what do I do about Riverside Ford? I bought the truck there, paid 55K with taxes and license. it tows great, but I'm sick of jumping it.

Thanks YBers
Mike


The main problem a lot of guys have had with the same symptoms and it's seems to be a common mistake .... you bought a FORD
 

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A good tech wouldn't be scared of some aftermarket wiring. It's not hard to figure out what circuit a parasitic draw is on. As easy as pulling fuses with an amp meter in line of the battery cable.
 

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I would try another dealer. Sounds like the one you are using doesn't seem to want to find the actual problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
A good tech wouldn't be scared of some aftermarket wiring. It's not hard to figure out what circuit a parasitic draw is on. As easy as pulling fuses with an amp meter in line of the battery cable.
I don't think they have a good tech. They have tried to avoid any warranty issues by bullshit.

I am going to check with an amp meter, thanks for the advice
Mike
 

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Discussion Starter #6
The main problem a lot of guys have had with the same symptoms and it's seems to be a common mistake .... you bought a FORD
I didn't want a underpowered, wide steering radius GM 450. GM& Dodge didn't have much to offer with the towing capacity I need for a 38ft. 5th Wheeler. The ford tows and drives like a dream. The issues are with the jerkoff dealer.

Mike
 

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I don't think they have a good tech. They have tried to avoid any warranty issues by bullshit.

I am going to check with an amp meter, thanks for the advice
Mike
Well it may not be as easy as I made it sound.

Before you blow a high dollar fuse in an amp meter... See if it will pop a 10 amp fuse between + cable and battery with the other disconected.
 

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I had an 08 250 and had a problem starting at around 20,000 miles. Loses power when towing, shut it off crank up and runs fine. In and out of shops 4 or 5 times. They see no problem. Finally it does it all the time, Redwood city, ca Towne Ford, they change a few sensors the particulate filter no change, get an engineer in and say contaiminated fuel void warentee. $10,157 and we will fix it.. Fuck Ford.. I will never own another on have had them since I started driving 25 years ago.. Good luck, buy something else is my suggestion.Corey. it had 77,000 on it when last in shop
 

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I wish you were local. We'll take just about anything in. What a good dealer would tell you is this. "We will diagnose your vehicle and find the issue, however due to the amount of aftermarket components we want you to know that there is a possibility that this repair will be customer pay". Then, they should let you know there standard diag fee for CP diesel labor, and pre-approve that amount from you (saying you will pay such and such diag fee if it is in fact an aftermarket component). Tell them to check the TSB on the charge air cooler for the white smoke/regen issue. I have only had one truck do that, but that issue doesn't seam to pop up alot around here. There are a few of the same exact concerns floating around the tech areas of Ford that have yet to be resolved. I am in Texas, but if you need any assistance over the phone feel free to give me a call or text on my cell, 409-594-6630 and I am a certified Ford technician. Name is Mike.
 

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I had an 08 250 and had a problem starting at around 20,000 miles. Loses power when towing, shut it off crank up and runs fine. In and out of shops 4 or 5 times. They see no problem. Finally it does it all the time, Redwood city, ca Towne Ford, they change a few sensors the particulate filter no change, get an engineer in and say contaiminated fuel void warentee. $10,157 and we will fix it.. Fuck Ford.. I will never own another on have had them since I started driving 25 years ago.. Good luck, buy something else is my suggestion.Corey. it had 77,000 on it when last in shop

You had a problem with the high pressure pump/wiring. 99% of the time that issue you had is a electrical fault, not a contaminated fuel issue. So many dealers jump to the conclusion of contaminated fuel in a 6.4 due to the high failure rate when they see the least amount of water or gasoline. I bet it had a code P0088 in it too.
 

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I had an 08 250 and had a problem starting at around 20,000 miles. Loses power when towing, shut it off crank up and runs fine. In and out of shops 4 or 5 times. They see no problem. Finally it does it all the time, Redwood city, ca Towne Ford, they change a few sensors the particulate filter no change, get an engineer in and say contaiminated fuel void warentee. $10,157 and we will fix it.. Fuck Ford.. I will never own another on have had them since I started driving 25 years ago.. Good luck, buy something else is my suggestion.Corey. it had 77,000 on it when last in shop
What did they say was in the fuel? The truck must have ran for a while to put 77000 on it in 2 or 3 years.Did they say that the fuel had been like that for a long time?...
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Well it may not be as easy as I made it sound.

Before you blow a high dollar fuse in an amp meter... See if it will pop a 10 amp fuse between + cable and battery with the other disconected.
Thanks!
Since there is two parallel batteries, both tapped, how does a tech test for total current draw? Each + line off the batteries? If one battery is weaker then the other and won't fully charge, will that affect the other?

I know enough about electrical to be trouble, not enough to troubleshoot!

Thanks
I will be taking it to another dealer.
Mike
 

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Im not a ford guy but fell into an 02 F250 Super duty with low miles for 10 G's and the thing runs/pulls like a champ. Ive got it up to 140K and still no issues other than the fact that it rides like total shit!

Dealer fixed a couple recalls and they seemd to try and find warranty issues to fix when I first got it.

with two batteries it can sit for a month and probably more and still spins the starter like it ran yesterday.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I wish you were local. We'll take just about anything in. What a good dealer would tell you is this. "We will diagnose your vehicle and find the issue, however due to the amount of aftermarket components we want you to know that there is a possibility that this repair will be customer pay". Then, they should let you know there standard diag fee for CP diesel labor, and pre-approve that amount from you (saying you will pay such and such diag fee if it is in fact an aftermarket component). Tell them to check the TSB on the charge air cooler for the white smoke/regen issue. I have only had one truck do that, but that issue doesn't seam to pop up alot around here. There are a few of the same exact concerns floating around the tech areas of Ford that have yet to be resolved. I am in Texas, but if you need any assistance over the phone feel free to give me a call or text on my cell, 409-594-6630 and I am a certified Ford technician. Name is Mike.
The service writer told my they would trouble shoot the wiring but even if it turned out to be a Ford issue I would be responsible for the time spent on the aftermarket wiring. I will call you tomorrow, I'm 2hrs behind ya in Seattle. When you run diagnostics can you get a printout? I'm being told no, just have a display to look at.

My name is Mike too.
 

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silverstang is right . the dealer should get preapproval if it turns out to be customer pay issue
That's how my shop does it. Say you come in for that concern. We will get you to "pre-approve" a 2 hour diagnosis fee on the vehicle. If it turns into warranty issue, you don't have to pay for it. If it is customer pay, we advise you of the issue, tell you what needs to be done, and leave the option up to you to fix it or not. If you decline the repairs, you owe us 2 hrs of labor. If you approve it, those 2 hours are added into the repair total on the estimate. I do not try to run off any potential good customers. Be honest and fair to them, they will come back when they need service work (brakes, oil changes, etc). Telling you that they wont touch it with that stuff on there is just their way of saying they don't wanna mess with it. Possibly too much trouble for them to figure out.

Also OP, are your tailpipe tips black?
 

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The service writer told my they would trouble shoot the wiring but even if it turned out to be a Ford issue I would be responsible for the time spent on the aftermarket wiring. I will call you tomorrow, I'm 2hrs behind ya in Seattle. When you run diagnostics can you get a printout? I'm being told no, just have a display to look at.

My name is Mike too.
If you were using the IDS (scan tool) you can print some info out on the vehicle. (PID readings, etc) A test of the batteries conditions (batteries only) should be able to be printed depending on the tester. Any hands on diag (draw tests, etc) will most likely not be able to have any printout. All they will have on that is the Techs documentations written on the repair order. A repair order is a LEGAL document, and you should have access to tech comments. If I don't answer, I am working on a truck or around my boss, leave a message and I will call you back. I might not be much of any help, but I will try my best for a fellow YB member. You will have to pardon the accent, I'm from southeast Texas.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
silverstang is right . the dealer should get preapproval if it turns out to be customer pay issue
I don't have a problem if it is a aftermarket part issue. But the electrical issues happened from day one. I was jerked around and told it was from all the factory electronics. I needed to run it at least 30 minutes every week. Then when I finally got them to do a drawdown test I had the aftermarket stuff on except the gearvendors unit and it was "within factory specs." But, I didn't get any printout. Now they are claiming it's out of factory specs at 170-milliamps. Did a gearvendors in manual mode kill two heavy duty batteries?
I suspect they did the test on the weakened batteries, which would explain why the amp draw was higher this time.

Mike
 

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Discussion Starter #20
That's how my shop does it. Say you come in for that concern. We will get you to "pre-approve" a 2 hour diagnosis fee on the vehicle. If it turns into warranty issue, you don't have to pay for it. If it is customer pay, we advise you of the issue, tell you what needs to be done, and leave the option up to you to fix it or not. If you decline the repairs, you owe us 2 hrs of labor. If you approve it, those 2 hours are added into the repair total on the estimate. I do not try to run off any potential good customers. Be honest and fair to them, they will come back when they need service work (brakes, oil changes, etc). Telling you that they wont touch it with that stuff on there is just their way of saying they don't wanna mess with it. Possibly too much trouble for them to figure out.

Also OP, are your tailpipe tips black?
Last I looked they weren't black, I will look tomorrow when I pick it up? I have never used offroad or Bio-deisel. I have heard stories of Ford claiming bad deisel. How do you know if your getting biodeisel mix? I know some fuel dealers are blending it.

Mike
 
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