6.2
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13,418 Posts
If you like the body style, find one with a 454.
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10,577 Posts
Get the 6.2 and buy a Banks turbo kit for it. They are pretty cheap
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419 Posts
Find a used turbo set-up off of a late model 6.5. You can get the whole shebang for a fraction of what a BANKS turbo kit will cost you. Your mileage will go down some by adding the turbo, but you can get a good deal more power out of it. If you stay reasonable with your expectations, the 6.2 will run for a long time.
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1,334 Posts
There is a reason why they have been nicknamed sick-two.
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10,577 Posts
I didnt think the 6.5 setup was a direct bolt on
It " bolts " on but a few things need to be done for the square body style trucks . Oil feed for the turbo can be used from the OP switch port with a braided line . OE is a port directly below
the turbo , right front of engine . The main problem is the turbo has a clearance problem with the heater core housing . Some have used an S10 housing . 6.2 heads are also a little different as
far as the injector angle in the head . The 6.5 heads took care of that and this helps with the right side manifold .
the turbo , right front of engine . The main problem is the turbo has a clearance problem with the heater core housing . Some have used an S10 housing . 6.2 heads are also a little different as
far as the injector angle in the head . The 6.5 heads took care of that and this helps with the right side manifold .
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15,817 Posts
My first truck was a 6.5 with turbo. I have three or four books from the diesel site with all kinda of information on stuff to do to these motors. And I also have a brand new duramax fan that they use as an upgrade for the cooling. If you are interested I'll make you a good deal on this. I no longer have that truck so it's not doing me any good... Just an offer, if you happen to be interest shoot me a PM....
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10,577 Posts
I knew there were some things that needed done, the good thing is that 6.5 and 6.2 stuff seems to be everywhere and cheap. I know a guy with a late 90s 4x4 dually crew cab 6.5 that has been sitting for probably 4 years with alittle over 100k miles. He told me i could have it for 2000 cash last year, its so damn big i dont know where i could park it
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710 Posts
My 6.2 loved breaking the bolts off at the block!
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15,817 Posts
Back when I had my 6.5 I had the starter on my truck rebuilt at a local shop that rebuilds electric motors and such. He told me a lot of the problems with those starters are due to people cranking the engine over while the glow plugs are cycling. What happens is the glow plugs are taking so much current it strains the starter while cranking during their cycling. And I guess that stuck with my as I am still very careful not to crank my now power stroke till the glow plugs have cycled....
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6,563 Posts
The glow plugs on your PSD are likely still on, even after the lamp goes out.
And any 6.2 I've towed with has run STUPID hot towing. Not worth biting your nails wondering the whole time if you're going to make it.
If you like the look of the truck/body style, get one with a big block.
And any 6.2 I've towed with has run STUPID hot towing. Not worth biting your nails wondering the whole time if you're going to make it.
If you like the look of the truck/body style, get one with a big block.
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15,817 Posts
Really? The lamp is not tied to the glow plug relay? I'm going to have to look that up on my Ford service manual. Never too old to learn something new....
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1,481 Posts
Buy the truck and do the cummins swap into the truck.
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8,908 Posts
x2
You can put a 6.5 turbo setup on a 6.2 but if the truck has a/c then the downpipe will hit. Options are use a modified s-10 a/c box or no a/c.
You can find Banks setups from $400-600 depending on what parts might be missing.
A new Banks kit is $2200-2700
6.2s like to crack where the mains bolt to the block, some will run for awhile like this but most chuck the crank.
There is a 6.2 section over at dieselplace.com lots of great info on the 6.2s
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6,563 Posts
Nope. It's all in the calibration, but the glow plugs in most cases will stay on for 2 minutes from the key-on cycle, to eliminate any chance of smoke.
The lamp in the dash is a PCM output, they just leave the light on long enough to get enough heat to fire the engine, but again this is dependent on the ambient temperature, oil temperature, and calibration.
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