I'm with this guy, I'm at around 800hp with a stick. It's probably overkill but that's better than breaking other shit or risking injury to yourself or more importantly others.
I watched a high 4 second dragster shear his studs at the 1/8 this year and ended up backwards hitting the wall and upside down. I would go 5/8 on all cars especially if running a brake.
Exactly what I was going to say.
No reason to order new axles without them.
Should be an automatic upgrade to race axles now a days that we all use racing wheels instead of stock with slicks.
I don't have much power, but when I bought axles I ordered 5/8". The upside is it's as good as it can be. The downside was spending a little more money at the time and not having to spend it again. Or not having to replace he 1/4 panel.
My guess fact is most stud failures occur due to improper torque and/or fatigued studs. The more clamping force there is, the less shear force imparted to the stud. Whatever style is used should be torqued to the correct spec plus 6 more lbs/ft.
I don't think I found wheels with conical seats that would take 5/8 studs, and the right conical nuts for my car. If you go with flat aluminum, the stud will pass through the wheel, but will need to be spot faced for the flanged nut, or the spacer.
I don't think I found wheels with conical seats that would take 5/8 studs, and the right conical nuts for my car. If you go with flat aluminum, the stud will pass through the wheel, but will need to be spot faced for the flanged nut, or the spacer.
The centers in the Monocoque wheels on my Beretta had to be spot faced when we upgraded to M-W 5/8" drive studs, so the spacers could have a place to "nest".
5/8 . Years ago in the 70's when 1/2 was all that was available they would break on occasion on a stick car. A fix was on a dual pattern axle we had 10 1/2 studs. Over kill yes but the breakage was gone.
Here is a chance to get free drive studs when purchasing axles from the company the first created Drive Studs years ago.
SAVE NOW!
Purchase a set of MW the Hi-Torque axles and bearings OR a set of MW MasterLine axles and bearings between now and the end of the year (12/31/19) and get a FREE drive stud kit or wheel studs.
Does that count on the 40 spline Super Lite gun drilled axles and housing ends and ceramic axle bearings I purchased two-weeks ago? Maybe you could offset the price against a new set of titanium drive studs??? Also bought an aluminum driveshaft from you this year!
Sales rep was Brian.
Merry Christmas!
Thanks,
Jeff Lee
85086
MW parts: 4WDB - Drive Shaft - Pro Dana 60 complete - LW Steel spool, cap, Front quick disconnect & rear yokes.
By the way readers. I ordered axles and they were delivered in I think TEN DAYS!
I did the 5/8" studs simply for the ease of putting the wheels back on the car! No more trying to align the holes to get the stupid lugnut shanks aligned. Just put the wheels on, put the spacer/washer on, then the nut, so damn easy! And having more strength there is a plus!
When I upgraded to 33 spline spool/axles from Moser I chose 1/2" instead of spending the extra (I think) 40 dollars for the 5/8" and I regret that decision. Now 2 years later I sent them back and had them drill for 5/8" for 190 parts/labor plus shipping. Not expensive but could've saved more had I started with bigger studs. Still cheaper than body work
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