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^^^^^^^



Ran M-W 5/8" drive studs on my stuff.
 

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I watched a high 4 second dragster shear his studs at the 1/8 this year and ended up backwards hitting the wall and upside down. I would go 5/8 on all cars especially if running a brake.
 

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If your buying new rims and axles I would go 5/8. Only time to stay would be if one part exists. That little piece of mind of extra strength.
 

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I don't have much power, but when I bought axles I ordered 5/8". The upside is it's as good as it can be. The downside was spending a little more money at the time and not having to spend it again. Or not having to replace he 1/4 panel.
 

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My guess fact is most stud failures occur due to improper torque and/or fatigued studs. The more clamping force there is, the less shear force imparted to the stud. Whatever style is used should be torqued to the correct spec plus 6 more lbs/ft.
 

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Mike
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I don't think I found wheels with conical seats that would take 5/8 studs, and the right conical nuts for my car. If you go with flat aluminum, the stud will pass through the wheel, but will need to be spot faced for the flanged nut, or the spacer.
 

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T/S 368E
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I watched a high 4 second dragster shear his studs at the 1/8 this year and ended up backwards hitting the wall and upside down. I would go 5/8 on all cars especially if running a brake.

Exactly what I was going to say.
No reason to order new axles without them.
Should be an automatic upgrade to race axles now a days that we all use racing wheels instead of stock with slicks.

.
 

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I don't think I found wheels with conical seats that would take 5/8 studs, and the right conical nuts for my car. If you go with flat aluminum, the stud will pass through the wheel, but will need to be spot faced for the flanged nut, or the spacer.
THIS ^^^^


The centers in the Monocoque wheels on my Beretta had to be spot faced when we upgraded to M-W 5/8" drive studs, so the spacers could have a place to "nest".
 

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My guess fact is most stud failures occur due to improper torque and/or fatigued studs. The more clamping force there is, the less shear force imparted to the stud. Whatever style is used should be torqued to the correct spec plus 6 more lbs/ft.
This. Dont pro-mods run 5/8 studs?
 

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TD 3550
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I watched a high 4 second dragster shear his studs at the 1/8 this year and ended up backwards hitting the wall and upside down. I would go 5/8 on all cars especially if running a brake.

You were out there that day at 41? We were right next to him on the return road headed back. Nasty wreck. Safety Equipment worked. Saw that rear slick/wheel shear right off
He was safe and ok...
 

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Yes I was, it was ugly but luckily walked away in pretty good shape.

You were out there that day at 41? We were right next to him on the return road headed back. Nasty wreck. Safety Equipment worked. Saw that rear slick/wheel shear right off
He was safe and ok...
 

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5/8 . Years ago in the 70's when 1/2 was all that was available they would break on occasion on a stick car. A fix was on a dual pattern axle we had 10 1/2 studs. Over kill yes but the breakage was gone.
 
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