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Discussion Starter #1
So just curious what needs to be done to run a 4l80E in my 2000 F-body? Do I need a seperate controller or will the factory ECU work? Any mods to the trans tunnel? What about the torque arm mount? I currently run a th400, but would love to have overdrive without worrying about breaking it every time I wanna put some power down.

Finally, who is the guy to talk to about building one of these units? Torque converter?
 

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You will need a separate controller such as TCI's TCU (works great). There a couple of places where the trans tunnel will need to be beatin' silly with a BFH or cut out and boxed.

What kind of torque arm are you using?

Call Finish Line Transmissions about the trans and converter. http://www.finishlinetrans.com/index.htm
 

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Can be done with the stock computer. There is a guy on ls1tech that sells the instructions to make it work. Quite simple actually.
 

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Can be done with the stock computer. There is a guy on ls1tech that sells the instructions to make it work. Quite simple actually.
This is the only info you provide?

I have such instructions in hand but it's neither here nor there.

If you're going to make a post to help someone out, don't send him on a goose chase. Send him a link.
 

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To run a 4l80e in a fbody you can buy an adapter harness from painless or repin some wires on the tran hanress, and then have someone who is familiar with segment swaps do the tune. I can help you with the tuning part if need, Im only a few hours away.
 

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theres 2 wires that need to be swapped on the truck forums...actually one isnt used on the 80e and one is moved to that ones old spot...tune and it will work i have done it

80e
crossmember
new dshaft
flywheel like tci
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Billyman.. I have a BMR crossmember and their torque arm for the th400.

This all sounds very promising. I like the th400, but I'd like a little more driveability then 3k at 60mph. LOL.

I assume the HP loss is about the same.... maybe a little more? Not that I really care, just curious.
 

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Not an F Body but we installed a 4l80E in my 2010 Camaro. Becuase of the weight we used a steeper first gear. I use the TCI controller and after a little playing it works well. I went with a Pro Torque 4000 stall converter to kill a little low end. Also it helps get the heavy ass 2010 Camaro moving. I still have the stock rear axle and half shafts.

Everyone suggested the 400 but then they thuk it's a race car. With the 4L80E I can use the overdrive and lockup after 60 mph. The guy that built mine is my crew chief on the Nova. He has a transmission shops and custom builds a bunch of race transmissions.

Here is a link to a video of the car.

http://s395.photobucket.com/albums/pp32/RobinLawrence/?action=view&current=camaro1098.flv

The car has gone 10.82 with that trans. I love it!

Robin
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I am stoked about this now. Now I just need to find the money and we can get started. LOL
 

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Billyman.. I have a BMR crossmember and their torque arm for the th400.

This all sounds very promising. I like the th400, but I'd like a little more driveability then 3k at 60mph. LOL.

I assume the HP loss is about the same.... maybe a little more? Not that I really care, just curious.
Is the BMR bar the short bar or the full length bar? There will need to be modifications done to the crossmember for the transmission mount and if's a full length arm, some mods will have to be made to retain the mounting location.

4L80 swap over the 400 is sweet.

The little loss in HP and the little addition in weight suddenly becomes irrelevant when you hit the highway.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Is the BMR bar the short bar or the full length bar? There will need to be modifications done to the crossmember for the transmission mount and if's a full length arm, some mods will have to be made to retain the mounting location.

4L80 swap over the 400 is sweet.

The little loss in HP and the little addition in weight suddenly becomes irrelevant when you hit the highway.
The bar is the full length one. I've got connections with my chassis guy, so mods aren't even an issue.

Yeah, I love the th400.... but I kinda wanted to drive the car a little further.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Will do guys. Thanks for all the help. It might take me a few months to gather all the good stuff. LOL. Unless I can sell my boat quickly. HAHAHAHA
 

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Engine/Transmission Harness to PCM Connector​
Remove the Brown wire from Pin 33 of the Blue PCM (C2) connector. It is no longer needed.
Remove the Tan/Black wire from Pin 32 the Blue PCM (C2) connector. It is no longer needed.
Remove the White or Gray wire from Pin 34 of the Red (C1) PCM connector and insert it into Pin 32 of the Blue (C2)
connector.
Your TCC Enable Circuit will now lockup the torque converter (just on/off, no slipping, which is recommended).
Now we need to reverse the action of shift solenoid B. You will need a 5 pin Bosch​
style relay that has the following pins:
30, 85, 86, 87, 87a. Wire like the following:
Pin 85 – PCM side of the wire for Pin
C1 (Red) – 40 (white or gray)
Pin 87a – Transmission side for wire going Pin
C1 (Red) – 40 (white or gray)
Pin 30 – Good ground
Pin 86 – 12V+
Pin 87 – Not used.
Now you need to disable codes P0785, P1860, and P1870 in the tune, otherwise it will not act properly and throw a

code.

There ya go, i just dont get on this thing tons so had to do a lil looking.


 

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Engine/Transmission Harness to PCM Connector​
Remove the Brown wire from Pin 33 of the Blue PCM (C2) connector. It is no longer needed.
Remove the Tan/Black wire from Pin 32 the Blue PCM (C2) connector. It is no longer needed.
Remove the White or Gray wire from Pin 34 of the Red (C1) PCM connector and insert it into Pin 32 of the Blue (C2)
connector.
Your TCC Enable Circuit will now lockup the torque converter (just on/off, no slipping, which is recommended).
Now we need to reverse the action of shift solenoid B. You will need a 5 pin Bosch​
style relay that has the following pins:
30, 85, 86, 87, 87a. Wire like the following:
Pin 85 – PCM side of the wire for Pin
C1 (Red) – 40 (white or gray)
Pin 87a – Transmission side for wire going Pin
C1 (Red) – 40 (white or gray)
Pin 30 – Good ground
Pin 86 – 12V+
Pin 87 – Not used.
Now you need to disable codes P0785, P1860, and P1870 in the tune, otherwise it will not act properly and throw a

code.

There ya go, i just dont get on this thing tons so had to do a lil looking.


Nicely executed none-the-less.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Tek.... I've heard too many horror stories about those things eating mega power. Can't find a single person whose tried one in an F-body and reported back results. Also read somewhere that there has to be significant beating to fit.... although in your pics it looks pretty straightforward with minimal BFH pounding.
 

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Wasn't bad to fit at all. Unit eats 1hp per 400 and supposedly that's when it's engaged. Mine is rated to over 1200hp
Hehe, you wanna eat mega power, try running a what? 9"-10" converter in that 4L80. What's the minimum converter size in that trans to keep the lock up feature?
I should've had mine on the road by now but I decided to convert fuels (E85) before I dynoed her. I wish I had more info for you as far as performance but I can't see running a 4L80 with a hydraulic N/A set up and noot losing big power and ET. just my .02
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Tek.... interesting. I've already starting thinking about my next combo and looks to be a big blower. For now, I don't really care too much about losing some power to gain more driveability. I will definitely keep you in mind and try to follow this topic. Please let me know some results when you finish. I'm a good 6-9 months out from actually making a switch, so I have plenty of time to decide.
 

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Dave C. aka mightymouse I believe rocks a 4L80E, and he's going 8.7's with his. If was trying for 8's I wouldn't spend a nickel building up a 4L60E IMO you are guaranteed to have to go thru that trans every year.
 
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