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Here is my current plan or thoughts anyways. Rather I run solid flat or hydraulic roller I plan to go thru the 30 minute break in process if for nothing else ring seal. I'm an Amsoil guy so I plan to use their break in oil. Following that break in procedure i plan to change oil and filter and go with one of their oils. What do you guys think of the break in procedure. If solid flat I will of course break in on outer springs only. Should I run a conventional oil for a few hundred miles and then switch to the synthetic for ring seat purposes?
 

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Oh yeah sorry 496 forged piston deal...etc..I've usually run speed pro plasma moly in the past but considering total seal this go around. Street strip application. What ring you guys suggest?
 

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Long Live The King
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“A few hundred miles” ?

Have done a 15 minute dyno break in. Checked the lash, made 8 pulls then changed the oil to synthetic a few times.

You sure don’t need a few hundred miles to seat the rings. A couple times around the block maybe.
 

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That works for me. I always thought they would seal alot faster as well. I've read too much in the past and although I don't think it hurt waiting some time I'm glad.to hear it isn't needed. Any thoughts on what ring in the total seal line up?
 

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Just call Total Seal and ask to speak to Keith. He will recommend rings and will help you with break in procedure and much more if you ask. If you have a deal with your favorite parts house, ask for a quote number and you can order with any dealer using that number and save some money possibly.
 

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Idiot Savant
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Hasting has some new low tension 1/16 1/16 3/16 "Nitro Black" Rings that look interesting.


Top ring and oil ring rails are made of gas nitride hardened stainless steel
Faces of top ring and oil rails are ceramic PVD coated. This coating has a very low coefficient of friction, in addition providing high scuff and heat resistance and excellent seating
• Second ring is Ductile iron Napier profile design for optimum durability and oil scraping ability under the most severe performance conditions
• Above features resulting in measurably improved horsepower
Nitro Black Ceramic PVD coatings are compatible with Nikasil coated cylinder bores
• For use with all types of fuel and injections including nitrous oxide
 

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“A few hundred miles” ?

Have done a 15 minute dyno break in. Checked the lash, made 8 pulls then changed the oil to synthetic a few times.

You sure don’t need a few hundred miles to seat the rings. A couple times around the block maybe.
This really depends on how the cylinder all were honed and finished.
If the left it rough it will take some time.... Don't idle it long and get a load on it as soon as possible, if you gotta break a flat tappet in, do it, let the engine completely cool after break in, dump that oil, put fresh break in oil back in and go beat it...
Make sure your time up is not excessively rich or you'll kill your fresh engine...
 

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“A few hundred miles” ?

Have done a 15 minute dyno break in. Checked the lash, made 8 pulls then changed the oil to synthetic a few times.

You sure don’t need a few hundred miles to seat the rings. A couple times around the block maybe.
This really depends on how the cylinder Walls were honed and finished.
If the left it rough it will take some time.... Don't idle it long and get a load on it as soon as possible, if you gotta break a flat tappet in, do it, let the engine completely cool after break in, dump that oil, put fresh break in oil back in and go beat it...
Make sure your tune up is not excessively rich or you'll kill your fresh engine...
High gear pulls loads the engine good.
 

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Long Live The King
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That works for me. I always thought they would seal alot faster as well. I've read too much in the past and although I don't think it hurt waiting some time I'm glad.to hear it isn't needed. Any thoughts on what ring in the total seal line up?
For what it's worth ... I've been told that with the right honing procedure and proper ring installation that rings are "seated" when the engine comes off the engine stand. They certainly are from the factories as they don't break them in with Convent oil then change it.
 

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That works for me. I always thought they would seal alot faster as well. I've read too much in the past and although I don't think it hurt waiting some time I'm glad.to hear it isn't needed. Any thoughts on what ring in the total seal line up?
For what it's worth ... I've been told that with the right honing procedure and proper ring installation that rings are "seated" when the engine comes off the engine stand. They certainly are from the factories as they don't break them in with Convent oil then change it.
You were told right, to know for sure you really should have a blow by meter on the Dyno.
I got my honing down to a science, my first three pulls usually make within 2 HP of each other, when I see that and vacuum climbing I know they were seated of the engine stand, but I still ain't got big enough ballzz to run Synthetic oil right away, and for me it's just not worth it, I'll run break in oil atleast 10-12 pulls, then change it... been working for me so I ain't changing it... LOL
 

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IMHO If you are going to break this engine in on the street (instead of on a dyno) I would make SURE you have the timing and everything set correctly so you can start it up and drive it. Letting an engine idle for 30 minutes does not help ring seal at all.. And you don't want to drive in traffic or steady speed freeway miles. You want to start it, take a quick look for leaks and drive it until it warms up.
Then run 1500 to 3000 and back of and let it decelerate back downto 1500 in gear, repeat two more times, then do the same, three times to 4000 and to 5000 letting it back down in gear each 'pass'. Try and do this in consecutive 'runs', some place not far from your garage. Get back, drain the oil, it will be sparkly, change the filter. Look at it if you want, I like to look at the secnd one.
From there I'd run non-synthetic, drive it hard, change the oil at 500 and then at 1500. I like WIX filters. If you want to run premium valve springs put them in after the 2nd or 3rd oil change ...when you could go to synthetic.

.....all this is useless without good machine work
 
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