Yellow Bullet Forums banner

1 - 20 of 20 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
168 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
i have a 477 BBC with 12.5 to 1, 1050 dominator with 92 jets, brodix brodie heads, makes around 650hp.

question: I am trying to clean the plugs up a little and motor blows a little black smoke when revved and a little when making pass. I run NGK 8's and timing at 34 degrees. I am looking to pick up a few more 10ths and would like any suggestions on jetting. Plugs show one complete turn on threads of black (not sutty) and browned porcelin.

thanks for any suggestions
 

·
T/S 368E
Joined
·
30,476 Posts
.

I had 2 of those exact engines. More HP, more timing, hotter plug. I ran the NGK-7 on nuts. Maybe the hotter plug will help clean it up??
Will try to find jetting records if I remember. With the stock from the box #8896, I never had any issues. Never touched anything but jets.
Good luck

Oh yea, 9.31 @ 3000 lbs.

.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
168 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
thanks, look forward to seeing those jetting numbers, I am @ 10.85 at 3500 lbs.
 

·
T/S 368E
Joined
·
30,476 Posts
.

HP carb, timing 36-37. Can't find my log for that engine. Blew up several years ago.
IIRC that carb comes with 88's, & my car liked 94-96's?? I know 100% it was not bigger than 96.
Don't forget, I was making a little more HP, needed more fuel than the stock jets.
Cam was about .800 roller. Heads were ported by EPD. I never had anything on my plugs.
But I did change them often. Plus went back & forth a lot for N2O.

When were your heads & rings freshen last.


.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,621 Posts
My question was for n2thebnox, The HP came with 88's and power valves. 92 to 93 should be plenty without power valves, .025 main air bleeds and removing the intermediate air bleeds will help. Quite a few of us have converted ours to 2-circuit as well as made some fixes in the t-slot circuit an have been quite happy with the results.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
168 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
it's the old style dominator.

The motor is fresh with about 20 passes. I do have twin foggers on it but have only sprayed it once. I want to get the motor on hit before I go back to the juice.

by the way, this is a True Street car. It is driven on the street occasionally.
 

·
Senior Frog
Joined
·
10,327 Posts
i have a 477 BBC with 12.5 to 1, 1050 dominator with 92 jets, brodix brodie heads, makes around 650hp.

question: I am trying to clean the plugs up a little and motor blows a little black smoke when revved and a little when making pass. I run NGK 8's and timing at 34 degrees. I am looking to pick up a few more 10ths and would like any suggestions on jetting. Plugs show one complete turn on threads of black (not sutty) and browned porcelin.

thanks for any suggestions

92 jets might mean a 9375 Dominator and not an 8896?

Which is what I ran on my old 511 and it was fine....Im pretty sure most engines that see a Dom smoke just a little when you punch it in the driveway etc etc ...
9375s come with 92 sq jetting & 8896s come with 88s...9375s are 3 circuit and 8896s are 2 circuit carbs

A hotter plug might clean up a bit at the track but still wont burn any more fuel than the colder plug
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,898 Posts
OK, Sometimes things need to be said that sound harsh. This is one of those.

i have a 477 BBC with 12.5 to 1, 1050 dominator with 92 jets, brodix brodie heads, makes around 650hp.

question: I am trying to clean the plugs up a little and motor blows a little black smoke when revved and a little when making pass. I run NGK 8's and timing at 34 degrees. I am looking to pick up a few more 10ths and would like any suggestions on jetting. Plugs show one complete turn on threads of black (not sutty) and browned porcelin.

thanks for any suggestions
Your questions can not be answered by anyone here. It is called tuning and tuning is something you have to learn by years of experience. You have to know what to expect as you make changes.

You might be able to get in the ballpark to get an engine to run with the results from the experiences of someone else. Each application of the same engine will not always want the same thing. Tuning needs even on the same engine will change day to day track to track and at times minute to minute.

1050 dominator with 92 jets
Any idea how many different carbs there are that are 1050 Dominators? Any idea in all the Holley 1950 Dominators Holley made the number of carbs that were needing different jetting from others of the same size?

Next thing;
brodix brodie heads, makes around 650hp.
Brodix Big Brodie? Ok just which Brodie? Your guessed power may be optimistic as well.

The NGK 8 is a very cold spark plug and I doubt this engine would need any colder than maybe a 6.

Ed
 

·
T/S 368E
Joined
·
30,476 Posts
.

Great advice ED. Best wish's.

I'm 99.99999% sure #8896 is a 3 circuit, I've had 3 of them.

.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
168 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
OK, Sometimes things need to be said that sound harsh. This is one of those.



Your questions can not be answered by anyone here. It is called tuning and tuning is something you have to learn by years of experience. You have to know what to expect as you make changes.

You might be able to get in the ballpark to get an engine to run with the results from the experiences of someone else. Each application of the same engine will not always want the same thing. Tuning needs even on the same engine will change day to day track to track and at times minute to minute.



Any idea how many different carbs there are that are 1050 Dominators? Any idea in all the Holley 1950 Dominators Holley made the number of carbs that were needing different jetting from others of the same size?

Next thing;


Brodix Big Brodie? Ok just which Brodie? Your guessed power may be optimistic as well.

The NGK 8 is a very cold spark plug and I doubt this engine would need any colder than maybe a 6.

Ed
Ed,

I thought this forum was to share each others experiences in the hope to shorten the time of all our goals which is to go FASTER. I am sorry you are offended by my request for help, but it seems others on hear do not mind sharing their experiences.

I AM SIMPLY ASKING IF I AM IN THE BALLPARK.

I am aware all tune ups are different, I have been testing and have gone from 94's to 92's and picked up 3/10's in a 3500 vehicle. After the jet change we went to 34 degrees timing and picked up 2/10's.

I greatly respect the knowledge of all on this forum. I am simply asking for a ballpark tune suggestions. If I was paying for the knowledge, I would be holding that person responsible for improvements or lack of. I do not hold anyone on this forum responsible except for myself. I will use the information shared at my own expense.

I am not looking to "HARSHEN" anyones experience on here. I greatly appreciate the information I have learned in such a short time on YB.

As far as horsepower estimation 10.85 1/4 mile in 3500 lb vehicle equates to what??
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
955 Posts
Agree with Ed and further lose the dominator IF you want to run quicker ET's n/a with this 3500 lb. " True Street car" that is "driven on the street occasionally"

Frankly it's a pig running a 10.85 best with a 12.5:1 477 BBC with brodix brodie heads in a 3500 lb. ride!




http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rbKYio6OvKM

http://s248.photobucket.com/albums/gg182/70ELCAMINOPICS/?action=view&current=994bigley.flv


NO rim screws, tubes, trick springs, drag shocks, air bags, anti-roll bar, tubular A arms, a Ford 9", line lock, aluminum rods, gapless rings, belt drive, crank trigger, vacuum pump, dominator carb, Demon carb, alky carb, toilet, K&N air filter/lid, split fire plugs, a magic stick from any of the internet self proclaimed cam gurus, big tube headers, powerglide trans, transbrake, spragless converter, aftermarket shifter, electric fan(s), electric water pump, sumped tank, fuel cell, fire hose fuel lines, a fuel pump cable of feeding a Pro Stock engine and last but not least...the battery ain't in the trunk!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
168 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
Agree with Ed and further lose the dominator IF you want to run quicker ET's n/a with this 3500 lb. " True Street car" that is "driven on the street occasionally"

Frankly it's a pig running a 10.85 best with a 12.5:1 477 BBC with brodix brodie heads in a 3500 lb. ride!




http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rbKYio6OvKM

http://s248.photobucket.com/albums/gg182/70ELCAMINOPICS/?action=view&current=994bigley.flv


NO rim screws, tubes, trick springs, drag shocks, air bags, anti-roll bar, tubular A arms, a Ford 9", line lock, aluminum rods, gapless rings, belt drive, crank trigger, vacuum pump, dominator carb, Demon carb, alky carb, toilet, K&N air filter/lid, split fire plugs, a magic stick from any of the internet self proclaimed cam gurus, big tube headers, powerglide trans, transbrake, spragless converter, aftermarket shifter, electric fan(s), electric water pump, sumped tank, fuel cell, fire hose fuel lines, a fuel pump cable of feeding a Pro Stock engine and last but not least...the battery ain't in the trunk!
what kind of carb would you recommend? by the way my PIG is a full size chevy truck so aerodynamics are a little restrictive. also I am going to start spraying (twin PRO RACE foggers) when I get the motor's tune dead on.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,621 Posts
I have not seen the non-HP 8896, the HP 8896 I have is a 3-circuit. How many bleeds are in each port on yours, 2 or 3? If you have some pin drills try to get the bleed sizes.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,898 Posts
Ed,

I thought this forum was to share each others experiences in the hope to shorten the time of all our goals which is to go FASTER. I am sorry you are offended by my request for help, but it seems others on hear do not mind sharing their experiences.
I am offended by your response sir.
Sharing is what I do. No secrets withheld from me ever unless it is current Professional secrests from others who share info in confidence about thier programs.

Your question did not offend me in the least. It is just an impossible to answer series of questions.

The guys trying to help you probally could do it much better if you tell us what you have instead of all the vague descriptions of parts.

I say Again
What Holley carb do you have?
There are tons of different 1050 Holleys and they are all with differences. Not the same at all. Some here have begun guessing at what you have and that is the root of their suggestions. IE (#8896) or this suggestion, (might mean a 9375) I would guess that over the years Holley has made over 50 separate 1050 Dominators. Which one do you have?

THis tells me you are still far off;
I have been testing and have gone from 94's to 92's and picked up 3/10's in a 3500 vehicle. After the jet change we went to 34 degrees timing and picked up 2/10's.
Whatever Brodix heads you have they are conventional chamber if they are called Big Brodie. That means you do have a piston dome of some sort. Conventional heads with domes like more ignition timing in the 38 to even 44 degree range.

Don't go cranking the dist to 44 degrees.

If your engine is performing better with less timing than it should have then you are needing more fuel in it.

When tuning engine forget ET they mean zilch. The only thing that matters is mph. You guage your tuning changes with two back to backs after changing tuning and then you have an average mph that the change made. Never make big changes at once unless you know it needs those big changes. So you are feeding it enough fuel for the huge open chambered heads at 12. 50 -1 compression to run better at 34 degrees ign. If you bump fuel jets up it slows down because you do not have enough ignition timing in it to handle that extra fuel. Or with same jetting you bump ignition up a couple of degrees but it doesn't do any different and your plugs look hot. Put more fuel in.

Like I said before;
Your spark plug is too cold for your engine so it will falsly be liking less fuel and less ignition. The rick is not to see how cold of a plug you can run. It is the opposite. See how hot of a plug you can run without detonation with a good tune in ignition and fuel. Example In 1968-69 Chevrolet had a bad bow engine called the L-88. It had a rompin stompin flat tappet cam of over .600 lift and compression ration of 13.50 -1. From the factory as they came with a little track tuning, they were doing an honest 500 hp with 427 cu in. The recommended NGK Plug for that engine is either a NGK 4 or NGK 5. I use NGK 7 and 8 for doing all motor tests with engines on all motor of over 900 hp to 1350 all motor hp. (Those are built for serious nitrous with the compression you have and at times a llittle more) Use or try a hotter plug in it with more timing and more fuel.

Ed
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
168 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
I am offended by your response sir.
Sharing is what I do. No secrets withheld from me ever unless it is current Professional secrests from others who share info in confidence about thier programs.

Your question did not offend me in the least. It is just an impossible to answer series of questions.

The guys trying to help you probally could do it much better if you tell us what you have instead of all the vague descriptions of parts.

I say Again
What Holley carb do you have?
There are tons of different 1050 Holleys and they are all with differences. Not the same at all. Some here have begun guessing at what you have and that is the root of their suggestions. IE (#8896) or this suggestion, (might mean a 9375) I would guess that over the years Holley has made over 50 separate 1050 Dominators. Which one do you have?

THis tells me you are still far off;


Whatever Brodix heads you have they are conventional chamber if they are called Big Brodie. That means you do have a piston dome of some sort. Conventional heads with domes like more ignition timing in the 38 to even 44 degree range.

Don't go cranking the dist to 44 degrees.

If your engine is performing better with less timing than it should have then you are needing more fuel in it.

When tuning engine forget ET they mean zilch. The only thing that matters is mph. You guage your tuning changes with two back to backs after changing tuning and then you have an average mph that the change made. Never make big changes at once unless you know it needs those big changes. So you are feeding it enough fuel for the huge open chambered heads at 12. 50 -1 compression to run better at 34 degrees ign. If you bump fuel jets up it slows down because you do not have enough ignition timing in it to handle that extra fuel. Or with same jetting you bump ignition up a couple of degrees but it doesn't do any different and your plugs look hot. Put more fuel in.

Like I said before;
Your spark plug is too cold for your engine so it will falsly be liking less fuel and less ignition. The rick is not to see how cold of a plug you can run. It is the opposite. See how hot of a plug you can run without detonation with a good tune in ignition and fuel. Example In 1968-69 Chevrolet had a bad bow engine called the L-88. It had a rompin stompin flat tappet cam of over .600 lift and compression ration of 13.50 -1. From the factory as they came with a little track tuning, they were doing an honest 500 hp with 427 cu in. The recommended NGK Plug for that engine is either a NGK 4 or NGK 5. I use NGK 7 and 8 for doing all motor tests with engines on all motor of over 900 hp to 1350 all motor hp. (Those are built for serious nitrous with the compression you have and at times a llittle more) Use or try a hotter plug in it with more timing and more fuel.

Ed

Ed,
I by no means meant to offend you and I appologize for it. I simply read more into your comment than I should have. You obviously share your wealth of knowledge or you would not take the time to write a response. I will get the exact heads and carb info and post it on here. I inherited this motor and do not know all the exact details. Thanks again for your response and information
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
168 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
carb is 8896, motor does have dome pistons, and a nitrous mechanical roller on 114. i do not know more as the motor was bought complete.

The most timing we have put in it so far is 34 degrees, plugs are still a little rich and porcelin is brown. Shifting @ 6500 and going through the traps @ 7000.

will bringing the timing up to 38 and running a hotter plug clean up the plug? Also I have the plugs gapped @38

as stated I want to get the tune dead on before going to the spray.

thanks again for any help you can offer
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,428 Posts
carb is 8896, motor does have dome pistons, and a nitrous mechanical roller on 114. i do not know more as the motor was bought complete.

The most timing we have put in it so far is 34 degrees, plugs are still a little rich and porcelin is brown. Shifting @ 6500 and going through the traps @ 7000.

will bringing the timing up to 38 and running a hotter plug clean up the plug? Also I have the plugs gapped @38

as stated I want to get the tune dead on before going to the spray.

thanks again for any help you can offer
Maybe be worth it to put it on a dyno?
 
1 - 20 of 20 Posts
Top