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Discussion Starter #1
Finally got to the dyno and was able to make some pulls. I will be going back in the morning to turn it up and find out where the power falls of. Anyone care to guess what it will make at peak hp? Remember these heads are 27 years old as well.
Here is a list of parts and some pictures.

Dart Iron Eagle block 4.00 X 4.155
Lunati Pro Series crank
GRP Billit Aluminum rods
Ross custom pistons 14 to 1
Hellfire rings .043, .043, 3mm
55mm Billit Roller cam 270 in, 295 ex, .850+ in lift, .800+ ex lift, 114 lsa (the cam was designed for nitrous only)
Jesel tie-bar roller lifters, bronze lifter bushings
1/2 inch .160 wall Manton pushrods
Jesel shaft rockers
Ford Motorsport A-3 canted valve heads, 380 intake, 260 exhaust
Titanium intake and exhaust valves
PAC triple springs, titanium retainers, Manton 10* lash locks
Edelbrock 2863 Victor Glidden intake, (custom ported)
Pro Systems 1080 carb
5 stage dry sump pump (3 gallon tank)
Star Machine vacuum pump +





 

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900/640???? Keep in mind I no nothing about Ford heads. Just going by your cubes, compression, flow, and cam specs.

Oh.....good luck with it!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Why run the Vac pump and the Dry sump pump? What kind of #s on the break in pulls?
The dry sump pump only pulled about 5-7" of vacuum. With both of the pumps running I have the regulator on the star vacuum pump set at 15". It holds good through out the entire pull. I know for sure it won't get close to 900hp. It made 785 hp at 7800 rpm. The power was still climbing pretty good and I think there is more left. The cam was designed to make peak hp at 8500 rpms. If I can get 800 hp I will be thoughly pleased with this project.
 

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I know for sure it won't get close to 900hp. It made 785 hp at 7800 rpm. The power was still climbing pretty good and I think there is more left. The cam was designed to make peak hp at 8500 rpms. If I can get 800 hp I will be thoughly pleased with this project.

Hmm, I guess the heads are not very efficient??? My 440sbc made 870/660 with a 361/262 18° inline head and wet sump. That's why I was thinking a bit more with a canted valve head moving more air.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Hmm, I guess the heads are not very efficient??? My 440sbc made 870/660 with a 361/262 18° inline head and wet sump. That's why I was thinking a bit more with a canted valve head moving more air
Keep in mind that this engine was built and the cam designed for nitrous use only. The heads are only 27 years old after all. Plans are to get some new heads in the future. SC-1's, D-3's, Pro-Kings, something along those lines.
 

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Webb---How much nitrous will you be shooting it with to want to alter the cam's profile like that? I won't guess at how much it will make but rather how much it should. Set up as is with the stick ground this way and lower compression with an older head, 825 range is where I would see it. With a n/a grind, up to date cylinder head and 16.5 compression, 875+. Let us know how you make out.
 

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what kind of dyno? lets have some sheets to look over when you are all done. BTW, i would try some air bleed changes if you have time. its amazing what that can sometimes do.
 

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Keep in mind that this engine was built and the cam designed for nitrous use only. The heads are only 27 years old after all. Plans are to get some new heads in the future. SC-1's, D-3's, Pro-Kings, something along those lines.
Call goodson order 4 kits of z-spar and re do the heads. Your heads are all wrong you don't need new heads. Pro kings and regular non canted heads Sc1's cannot compete with the a3's If your going to buy heads only buy d3's or blue thunder 4.3s.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Well today wasn't all bad. The best we got was 807 hp @ 8000 rpms and 597 ft lbs @ 6700 rpms. The engine made its best power with 32 degrees of timing, 88 jets(squared), and 3 1/2 inches of carb spacers. It picked up everytime I added a spacer. If I had more spacers I would have tried them. I guess it needs more intake??? The headers I have are 2 1/8 stepped to 2 1/4 and are big for just motor, but I think they will work when I put the juice to it. The dyno is a Super Flow and I ran out of time and didn't get to change any air bleeds. The printer on the dyno is an old dot matrix printer and the dyno sheets are hard to read anyway, and when I tried to take a pic to download them they were not readable. Overall I am pleased and I think the engine will fit my needs well.
 

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Good stuff Web. If this was n/a only, I would Have gone 1 step smaller. 2" to 2 1/8". The bigger tubes will be really happy with the spray. Personally, I would have gone with more intake duration. I don't like the 25* spread. I have run into this years ago while testing some combinations and some engines that needed a ton of spacers on a good sized intake, I opened up the intake lobe with duration and it responded real well, cutting back on the amount of spacers it needed. As we all know, spacers are just used to help fine tune a poor manifold design and/or an intake that is on the small side. The newer profile helped out alot and didn't need as many spacers and lost power with them, yet made alot more power with the new stick, as well as gaining rpm. Nothing wrong with a wide spread from int-exh, but I feel 25* is too much. Especially for 434 inches with 14.1 compression.
What were the brake specifics and how much fuel was used on the best pull? What fuel did you use? Good luck with the new piece, you should be happy with it.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I used C-16 because that is the fuel I will be using when running the car. If I am reading the dyno sheet right the BSFC was .53 on the best pull at peak HP, and we had an O2 sensor in the header collector and the A/F was reading around 12.6 to 13
The BSFC started in the .50 range at 4000 rpms, and went into the .4 range around 5300 rpms, and went back into the .5 range around 7000 rpms. I have no idea what is a good BSFC of what it represents????
 

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I used C-16 because that is the fuel I will be using when running the car. If I am reading the dyno sheet right the BSFC was .53 on the best pull at peak HP, and we had an O2 sensor in the header collector and the A/F was reading around 12.6 to 13
The BSFC started in the .50 range at 4000 rpms, and went into the .4 range around 5300 rpms, and went back into the .5 range around 7000 rpms. I have no idea what is a good BSFC of what it represents????

C16 is the way to go on the hit, but n/a power will be down, ALOT. The fuel as we all know is designed for power adders. Will you be running this in the engine when at the track because you are spraying it? Because you could have dynoed it on c14 which is more suited for n/a apllications and when sprayed use the c16 and not altered the tune up n/a. I have had guys with high compresion engines designed to run c14, switch to c16 without me knowing, leaving me wondering why it slowed 3 tenths and 3-5 mph and wasn't told until after I went through a pack of smokes in an hour tearing my hair out trying to figure out wtf happend overnight...lololl I have tested the fuels n/a on the dyno as well and the o2's and BSFC numbers all went dead rich when on the c16 and lost alot of power. BSFC numbers are derived from how much fuel is being burned per ammount of power made. From what I have seen .38-.39 being lean to .45 being rich. I aim for .40-.41 which is where I have been making the most power for each given application on race gas. 93 octane pump fuel will be a bit higher to stay out of detonation. When I steered too far from these numbers, power suffered. The o2 numbers should be higher as well telling me this engine is dead rich. I can safely say by running a fuel like c14, this engine will wake up and make alot more power while lowering those real rich .5x BSFC numbers and o2 readings. If your dyno day is done, when the car is running and you go to the track, run c16 and then run c14 and you will see.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Yes all done with the dyno. I went with C-16 because that will be the fuel I will run when racing the car. The car will be on nitrous all the time so I figured that should be the fuel I test it with. We tried jets ranging from 86 to 92 and the engine made the most power with 88's squared. Didn't get to try adjusting the air bleeds. Don't know if there might be some power with them.
 

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Yes, their can be some power gained from them. They are used to fine tune and tailor the fuel curve and help atomize the fuel. If I see a BSCF number getting richer and carrying it up in the rpm, and getting too fat before the shift point, I will add bigger bleeds in the hi speed to move the curve up at that higher range. I don't care if it goes fat AFTER the shift. If going bigger causes it to go to lean at a lower rpm after the converter would flash to, I go smaller in the intermediate circuit. The power gained is usually on the low side and not enough to see a big difference at the track,so I only tune airbleeds on the dyno, except idle bleeds.
I undserstand as far as wanting to run on the dyno, what you will be running at the track, but you also need to understand the engine will get fatter with the fuel enrichment from the solenoid when the nitrous is activated, even with the right fuel. I dyno nitrous engines on fuel normally designed for n/a applications mainly due to the fact that I get the engine tuned for the most power before the button is pushed, knowing that when on the hit, the fuel curve will get fatter anyway. It just puts me closer to the tune up I am looking for by doing this as well.
As for the carburetor likeing the 88's, that is probably mainly due to existing fat curve the engine has with the c16. Either way, I can see this engine with the right fuel and n/a cam profile making well over 850hp so I wouldn't go by the number it says now. More importantly, I am glad to see you know the engine is at the full potential for what you have before you decided to hit the button. Good luck with your new piece and let us know how you make out after you run it..
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Would you suggest tuning the car on motor at the track with
C-14? I was planning on doing that with C-16 before I started spraying any nitrous.
 
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