Yellow Bullet Forums banner

1 - 12 of 12 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,812 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
wonder how many folks are using wolfe racecraft adjustable rear spring perches in a drag radial/stock suspension type of drag racing.
http://www.wolferacecraft.com/detail.aspx?ID=820

the other question for you guys that i have is this. what are you doing to get weight out of the car? my car is a 1990 that i've made look like a sportcoupe and i've done everything "normal" to take weight out of the car. my car still has interior in it though. under dash is gutted, and there is nothing extra in the engine bay, moser9" iron 370 lsx, going th350. i've got the car down to ~3000 without me in the car. i'm wondering what i can start to cut out of the car without killing functionality or safety. how much of the radiator support are you guys trimming out? i've seen some where the support is gone altogether. wouldn't this effect the front struts if you had a coil over type setup? anyone have any pics of some trimmed up doors? i'd like to do some trimming off those two things, but still keep working power windows and be able to keep my factory bumper cover/fenders and working lights, ect. it'd be awesome to get the thing down to ~2800lbs without me.
 

·
out of work hair dresser
Joined
·
8,341 Posts
wonder how many folks are using wolfe racecraft adjustable rear spring perches in a drag radial/stock suspension type of drag racing.
Most, or at least, most should be.

Preacher's Kid said:
the other question for you guys that i have is this. what are you doing to get weight out of the car? my car is a 1990 that i've made look like a sportcoupe and i've done everything "normal" to take weight out of the car. my car still has interior in it though. under dash is gutted, and there is nothing extra in the engine bay, moser9" iron 370 lsx, going th350. i've got the car down to ~3000 without me in the car. i'm wondering what i can start to cut out of the car without killing functionality or safety. how much of the radiator support are you guys trimming out? i've seen some where the support is gone altogether. wouldn't this effect the front struts if you had a coil over type setup? anyone have any pics of some trimmed up doors? i'd like to do some trimming off those two things, but still keep working power windows and be able to keep my factory bumper cover/fenders and working lights, ect. it'd be awesome to get the thing down to ~2800lbs without me.
Take the carpet out and remove the padding from the back of it and then reinstall the carpet (the padding is heavy). Remove the factory wiring harness and remove all the wires that are no longer needed. Remove all the interior, purchase a good hole saw kit and make swiss cheese--reinstall interior. Remove factory bumper supports and fabricate new supports out of small diameter steel tubing.

The front radiator support offers little to no structural support to the strut towers. The towers are connected to the frame rails and hull (inner fender) of the car. Anything you remove that may effect structural integrity you simply put back with lighter materials. It does help to have a little engineering background and understanding about it all though.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,812 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
it's got aftermarket carpet with no backing material. wiring is "hacked back". i suppose being a Mechanical Engineering students doesn't quite make me have alot of understanding yet, lol. i still have a long way to go in school so i'm still learning.

what exactly would i be making swiss cheese out of with my beloved hole saw when the interior is removed?

on the springs, will the 150# springs that you can buy through them be right for this particular application?
 

·
out of work hair dresser
Joined
·
8,341 Posts
what exactly would i be making swiss cheese out of with my beloved hole saw when the interior is removed?
The hull. There's a lot of dead weight there.

Preacher's Kid said:
on the springs, will the 150# springs that you can buy through them be right for this particular application?
Can't rightfully say. Haven't built nor setup a 3rd gen in a looooong time. I'll be happy when they are obsolete.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,629 Posts
I haven't but guys cut out the ends of the front framerails where the bumper support bolts in. You can remove the front fenders and swiss cheese or cut a good chunk of the inner fenders. You can swiss cheese A pillars and inner metal in the back side area around the speakers. Wolfe Racecraft makes aluminum door panels (I have those installed). VFN Makes a lightweight dash. Percey Speedglass will take a good amount of weight out. 3000lbs with an iron block is pretty good-wish I were that light.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,812 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
well, i'd rather keep the glass for functionality, and for alot of classes that don't like plexi. i've got a fourthgen dash swap, but it's completely gutted, and is pretty light as it is. i can't currently see why i couldn't get my goal with it in there.

i'm leary of swiss cheesing the car without more cage. i only have an 8-pt bar at the moment.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,014 Posts
We skipped the adjustable spring perches nd ajust went coilovers the back and be done with it. call mad man he can set you up.

As for the weight.... cut the hornes off the front plate them up make a nose cone holder out of round bar. pull the fenders off and cut the double walled outer skin off. cut the double wall b piller out. pull the back bumper off a bunch of double wall there. cut all the brackets off the bottom of the car with a spot weld drill bit.We kept the stock dash but theres alot of extra plastic and metal on it you cant see. pull it out and cut that off. the stock wiring on a 4th gen is over 100lbs. firebird headlights are 25lbs or so. we sat 2950 w/o driver with stock glass ,iron block ,dana 60. We should be under 2900 this year
 

·
ls1 s/s notch on 28s
Joined
·
25,548 Posts
heres my doors on my 4th gen..the inners are fiber glass so the cutting only took out about 2lbs per side..but toss in the door bars,brackets for them,the saftey catch and door panel and its probley 20-25#s off each door..i still have to pull out the window arm's and swiss cheese them.lexan would be another 10#s,speaker shit and wireing was another 3-5#s



the t-top holder cut out just by it's self is 25-30#s,mini tub job is another 40-50#s,if the car is caged then the roof cross braces can come out,the arm rest metal peices for the rear seats can come out,my speaker holes on the b panel im trimming the max i can,run racing seats or just 1 seat..gut the dash completely..make it just a shell with what gauges you want to run,front frame horns like has been said can come off,you can trim the rad support pretty good an keep it stock but ditch 3lbs or so..the inner fenders like has been said also can be taken out.its the part when you pull off the fender is sitting on the out side of the engine bay..thats like 5lbs per side on a 4th gen,,bumpers can go and put the bumper covers back on.

stock fuel tank can go and run a 3gal or 12 gal one..suspension wise go all moly..you can do lexan for front an rear window..percys will have you coverd..
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
724 Posts
I didn't care for the perches, the springs were always "canted" a bit and the spring they supplied would unload (practically fall out) at full shock extension (PITA). I went with rear coilovers and never looked back
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
49,432 Posts
I'd put a tubular front end and a rack and pinion conversion in it. that saves a boat load of wieght on the front of a car that is already very very nose heavy.
 
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
Top