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im having a problem w the gear clearance it seems to be too tight. i hag to grind into the gear to get it to seat in the block and when i started the car it ran for about 30 sec then stalled when i checked the dist. gear it was shredded, anybody have any ideas on how fix this.
 

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The name Pro Comp told me everything I need to know to assist in helping you......





Throw it in the garbage and buy something quality.
 

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If I am understanding this correctly you are saying the gear has to much engagement toward the camshaft gear? Get a dart block.

Seriously if what your saying is true then when it was machined they were off drilling/boring the hole. I would contact pro-comp and tell them there block is junk.
 

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The name Pro Comp told me everything I need to know to assist in helping you......





Throw it in the garbage and buy something quality.
have not heard anything good about pro-comp;)
 

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Oh Hell, Here we go again. Was there any mention of this on the neverending thread about the PBM/PRO-COMP block problems that we read about all last winter?
 

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Check out this thread http://speedtalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=21535 if you look at the member PCM I think he is the owner or manger for pro-comp. You need to contact them and I would make it very public by posting your problem on that forum since he is a member there.
 

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you should be proud to own a pile of shit block.

if there is nothing else wrong, then the hole in the block can be bored out and a tube pressed into it that is then on center with the camshaft teeth.

but,
just to warn you,
how do you know that the issue is not that the cam bore ( bearings) tunnel is off from correct between the two cylinder banks or 16 lifter bores......??

them blocks are quap.
 

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Seriously if what your saying is true then when it was machined they were off drilling/boring the hole. I would contact pro-comp and tell them there block is junk.
Since this block has been ''run" i doubt procomp, or any other manufacturer for that matter would accept a return, for something that should have been picked up during assembly. They will shift the responsibility onto the assembler, who is responsible for all these checks. the cam also will probably be fucked
 

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Since this block has been ''run" i doubt procomp, or any other manufacturer for that matter would accept a return, for something that should have been picked up during assembly. They will shift the responsibility onto the assembler, who is responsible for all these checks. the cam also will probably be fucked
While to a point I would agree with you but how many people actually check the dizzy hole spacing on a ford block everytime they build one. As a machinist, if we sent some casting out like that was not machined correctly then it is our fault. Not the customer.

I would like to hear back from the OP if he contacted pro comp as well he could also post this under the link I gave him where I know a rep from pro comp will see
 

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mrtrbolt64, at least YOU have some cred-i-ability...!!!
and stand behind what machinist work that you do.




the wherehouse that sell them aint got no way to check anything...!!!

......??? do I have to put it all in capital letters.??????

nor do they really give a shit about quality other than maybe give the poor soul another block ( that they have no mannor to know if it is any good either)... and then hope that he does not have aparrent issues.


granted, we usually do not check the gear mesh, but we do check the DEPTH engagement to make certain that the hex drive and distributor length do not bind up the wet sump oil pump.
the distributor DRIVE teeth on the CAM ...could be TOO LARGE OF A ROOT DIAMETER.
maybe it is the camshaft, rather than the block.
I am not defending the pos - knockoff block maker!!!!
but it is something to check.
 

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Check out this thread http://speedtalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=21535 if you look at the member PCM I think he is the owner or manger for pro-comp. You need to contact them and I would make it very public by posting your problem on that forum since he is a member there.
I was amazed to see procomp advertise in Race Engine Technology with the best companies in the world. But entering the Engine Masters Challenge? :rolleyes:
 

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A common problem with Fords occurs when the gear is installed too far down the shaft, a common error when changing to a bronze gear or using a store-bought rebuilt distributor. It shears the pin when the distributor clamp is tightened if the distance from the thrust face of the gear to the housing flange is greater than the distance in the block from the gear thrust flange to the distributor mounting flange.

http://www.yellowbullet.com/forum/showthread.php?t=201032

The discussion starts at post 15. There is a link to a MSD instruction with the blueprint of the gear installation dimensions.
If the pin doesn't shear, this will wad the gear down in the block so hard it will swedge the block to the shaft below the gear or spin-weld the gear to the block, followed by breaking the teeth.
 

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While to a point I would agree with you but how many people actually check the dizzy hole spacing on a ford block everytime they build one. As a machinist, if we sent some casting out like that was not machined correctly then it is our fault. Not the customer.

I would like to hear back from the OP if he contacted pro comp as well he could also post this under the link I gave him where I know a rep from pro comp will see
Yes I do see your point. would you not agree though, that a dizzy that just ''glides'' into position without issue is being ''checked''? & the fact the gear needed grinding even to ''fit''in this instance is alarming, especially considering the manufacturers (apparently deserved) reputation? Tooth contact area, depth & alignment,, all areas of concern. You would have to wonder though, how many of these possibly mass produced blocks are like this?
 

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i thaught i was the only one with dumb asses around me my dart block had the same problem.It wasn't the block the cam wasn't set right you mught want to check it out 1 mo gen.
 

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Stay away from procomp all together. Tonight I just put there 9000 series ready to run dist. in my 6grand cleveland and while I was getting it in the right spot for the timing I ended up getting it 180 degrees off. So I went to take it out to turn it and the damn gear and bottom half of the shaft fell off inside my motor. I got it out but upon inspection found out that its a two piece press fit part and theres nothing to hold it together. Spend the money to get the good stuff. Procomp sucks!!
 

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If the pin doesn't shear, this will wad the gear down in the block so hard it will swedge the block to the shaft below the gear or spin-weld the gear to the block, followed by breaking the teeth.
So when putting the bronze gear back on the shaft. Is there any preference to have the gear closer to (MSD specs.) 3.996 or 4.005? I'm changing one now and it's going in a new Dart IE block. Suppose i should still measure the block?
 

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Now they're making blocks??? Oh lord...........
X 2

Where to start. Had 2 SBC intakes the the distributor pad was milled at an angle with 1/8" difference.

BBC heads with the wrong Intake valve angle. Plus 6 more items with these heads i don't have the time to get into. All I heard when I confronted the dude at the PRI shop was excuses and 'That's the first i have heard about an issue.

Between CAT and ProComp. One of them should get the

"We have Fucked the Customer the Most" award !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

They need to stick to their Chrome Crap and compete against Taiwan.
 

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So when putting the bronze gear back on the shaft. Is there any preference to have the gear closer to (MSD specs.) 3.996 or 4.005? I'm changing one now and it's going in a new Dart IE block. Suppose i should still measure the block?
Yes, no matter where the block came from, the distributor gear installation must be known to fit. I have seen several damaged blocks from this deal getting screwed up and it ain't the block's fault. When somebody puts the gear on wrong, one or the other - the block or the distributor - will be damaged.

Measure the block from the distrubutor mounting flange on the outside, down to the gear thrust flange on the inside. Whatever that distance is, the location of the distributor gear on the shaft must allow the end play of the distributor shaft to be centered when the gear is thrust down against the flange in the block. The distributor shaft end thrust must not bottom out against the distributor housing in either direction, up or down. When the enigne is running, the gear is thrust down against the flange inside the block.

http://www.yellowbullet.com/forum/sh...d.php?t=201032

The discussion starts at post 15. There is a link to a MSD instruction with the blueprint of the gear installation dimensions. The blueprint presumes the block is correctly machined but you should check it to be sure.
 

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Yes, no matter where the block came from, the distributor gear installation must be known to fit. I have seen several damaged blocks from this deal getting screwed up and it ain't the block's fault. When somebody puts the gear on wrong, one or the other - the block or the distributor - will be damaged.

Measure the block from the distrubutor mounting flange on the outside, down to the gear thrust flange on the inside. Whatever that distance is, the location of the distributor gear on the shaft must allow the end play of the distributor shaft to be centered when the gear is thrust down against the flange in the block. The distributor shaft end thrust must not bottom out against the distributor housing in either direction, up or down. When the enigne is running, the gear is thrust down against the flange inside the block.

http://www.yellowbullet.com/forum/sh...d.php?t=201032

The discussion starts at post 15. There is a link to a MSD instruction with the blueprint of the gear installation dimensions. The blueprint presumes the block is correctly machined but you should check it to be sure.
So if I measure the block and it would be, say 4.000". I would then remove the end play from the dist. shaft and also position the gear at 4.000"? Now there would still be end play in the shaft and the gear will be on the flange inside the block. Is this correct, set the gear at the same measurement as the block?
 
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