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Who makes a decent dual sump fox pan for a 351w based engine. I just cant find anything with a windage tray or anything other than the standard Moroso look alike pans.

What's everyone using?
 

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I'm not gonna be a lot of help here other than I'll share my pain of trying to get a great oil pan in a fox platform [Mustang would be the body style].
Most of my experience is with BBF & the foxes. The challenges are ; [1] The pan wants to be where the rack & K-member are. [2] The in pan windage devises want to be where the oil pump pickup tube is.
The pans are not dual sump....the thing in the front is a oil pump pocket. Will your rules budget/rules allow an external pump?
 

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I use a canton.
 

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The Ford racing pan sucks, weaps oil from the shitty cork gasket between the dipstick boss and the pan. My brand new Canton was cracked in all four corners and I had to weld it up before I installed it. My next one will be a Stef's.
 

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I used a Moroso at first, but like you said it lacked any extras such as a windage tray. Then after seeing an aluminum Canton at the PRI show, I bought one of them and it fit like shit. I ended up making a windage tray for the Moroso using .125"x 1.00" aluminum and stainless screen.
 

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I bought mine new but second hand and Im pretty sure its a hamburger. it fits good with stock K and rack and has a windage tray. holds 9 quarts
 

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I also had an aluminum Canton that didn't fit worth a damn. I worked on it for a while and finally sent it back to Canton. After getting it back from them it fit ok. Still using it to this day with no problems. Just took quite a bit to make it work.
 

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89 foxbody, factory k-member, manual rack, 351w (408ci) factory block using an aluminum canton pan front and back sump, its a 7qt pan plus filter, no problems to this day, just pilled it out of the box and bolt it right up.
 

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I run the moroso with billet end rails. It fit great, but it leaks a small amount of oil from the front because they dont use the two bolt holes at the front of the engine.
 

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I've used pretty much every pan out there and they all need a nice bead of RTV around the perimeter to stop leaks. You should also look into a drain/transfer hose connecting the oil pump sump to the rear sump. It will allow you to lower the oil level and not starve the pick up.
 

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89 foxbody, factory k-member, manual rack, 351w (408ci) factory block using an aluminum canton pan front and back sump, its a 7qt pan plus filter, no problems to this day, just pilled it out of the box and bolt it right up.
Yea, I didn't mean to come off as bashing Canton. I've had several good ones too, but the 50/50 chance got kind of old. About 15 years ago, I looked for a better way to make the aluminum pans fit better. I put one in the oven we used to bake blocks and heads before blasting them and heated it to 500* for about an hour. Then I pulled it out of the oven and immediately bolted it to the block and let it sit overnight. The 1/2" rock that it had right out of the box had reduced to less than a 1/8". I've been doing it that way ever since.
 

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Currently running a Canton pan with a 351W based combo with no leaks/issues in a Fox with a PAracing k-member kit.
Ran a Canton with a 351C in same car for a few with no leaks/issues except when a rod let go and it became a vented oil pan...lol
 

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That's what is called "oil pan failure":) I used to have a customer who always built engines with a bunch of mismatched junk laying around. He would come by on the first Friday he was going to run to buy fuel and get his bottles filled. Just like clock work the phone would ring at 8:00 the following Monday morning and he would tell me how it did. Three out of five times he would just say, "Well it sounded good, but I had oil pan failure again".
 
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