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I have a chance to pick up a 351 C motor for a good deal. I understand some are 2V and 4V. I'm pretty sure this will be a 2V.

I also know the heads are not as good as the 4V due to lower compression.

My goal is to do a gasket freshen up, new cam and possibly freshen the heads. Also better intake carb and headers.

Is the 2V motor a dud and not worth building? Can you find 4V heads around to swap out?

Thanks for any help.
 

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I know how to be realistic and set my goals accordingly. It's worked for me in the past. So here it goes.

I have a steet car now that i'm finishing up (T-type) so my money wen't there.

I want to do a pretty budget. low dollar build. I was going to go 454 BBC or another 355 Vortech deal. I also considered a SBF motor. Basicly whatever came around the cheapest and was in the right condtion. My goal would be 450-500 Hp with 500 being ideal.

I pretty much don't want to touch the short block (bottom end). I want to put all new gaskets throughout, change the cam with a cheap Howards cam kit (probably 24x/25x's duration. Lift TBD. ) I want to possibly keep the 2V heads or I think you can pick up the 4V heads for $500-600 complete. I would do that. I'll put on a good intake (Victor Jr.) and Holley 750. And whatever else. I know compression from those heads will be a big factor so I'll try to get the 4V heads. But is 500Hp possible from it?

I don't even have a car yet but i'd really like to get a mid 80's T-bird (Fox Body) and drop it in with a C-4 and trans brake with 3500-3800 stall and an 8.8 rear. I'm looking to build a budget V-8 car to dive to the track and beat up at test and tune without hurting my T-type.
 

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If you are looking for a set of 4v heads,I have a set I have 1973CJ open camber Cleveland 4v heads....Has NIB Manley 2.19 ss intake VAL,stock exhaust and crower rockers,Not sure on the rate of the springs..For 500$
 

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i run a cleveland in my fox body. the 500hp goal is very doable but i would highly suggest better connecting rods. they are not very good from the factory.
 

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500hp from a 4v cleveland is childs-play, and can be done with unported heads.
Camshaft choice will be the determining factor...clevelands just don't respond to valve events like a sbc, or even other sbf's.
Early ICLs and tight LSA's will make all the difference in the world.
Good rod bolts and proper big-end machining will make the rods live.
LOTS of controversy surrounding the oiling system...don't fall for hype, or "trick-of-the-week" gimmickery.
Take EVERYTHING on the 351C.net site with a grain of salt...all the real racers left (or were banned) from that site.
 

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I know how to be realistic and set my goals accordingly. It's worked for me in the past. So here it goes.

I have a steet car now that i'm finishing up (T-type) so my money wen't there.

I want to do a pretty budget. low dollar build. I was going to go 454 BBC or another 355 Vortech deal. I also considered a SBF motor. Basicly whatever came around the cheapest and was in the right condtion. My goal would be 450-500 Hp with 500 being ideal.

I pretty much don't want to touch the short block (bottom end). I want to put all new gaskets throughout, change the cam with a cheap Howards cam kit (probably 24x/25x's duration. Lift TBD. ) I want to possibly keep the 2V heads or I think you can pick up the 4V heads for $500-600 complete. I would do that. I'll put on a good intake (Victor Jr.) and Holley 750. And whatever else. I know compression from those heads will be a big factor so I'll try to get the 4V heads. But is 500Hp possible from it?

I don't even have a car yet but i'd really like to get a mid 80's T-bird (Fox Body) and drop it in with a C-4 and trans brake with 3500-3800 stall and an 8.8 rear. I'm looking to build a budget V-8 car to dive to the track and beat up at test and tune without hurting my T-type.
500 hp is a piece of cake. Either closed chamber 4V heads or Australian 2V heads. Torker intake with 4V heads or the Australian style Victor for 2V heads. Hydraulic cam with .550-.575 -ish lift, 230-240 intake, 240-250 duration, 106-108 centerline works great. If you can swing a hydraulic roller then definitely go that route. Clevelands love them. 1 3/4" headers work great.
 

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if you're looking for some 4v heads i have a family member with some for sale and i have a polished edelbrock 4v intake thats just been bolted onto an engine and never ran that id sell too.
 

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The Clevo was pretty common in Australia during the 80'& 90's for a cheap Hi-Po motor.
The best intake by far for the 2V head is the Weiand X-cellerator (P.N 7516) with 750 D/P and the trick was the Crane SOLID cam, either the F246 or the F260.

The Marrickville Special was an XY with a 750 D/P and Weiand 7516 and a Crane F246, those things went Good, absolutely NO need for 4v heads on the street, especially a Street/Strip combo.
CYA
Geoff
 

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Re: 351 Cleveland motor help...Hi I'm new to this and not sure how this works yet...lol....,but i have a question that you might know..I have a 95 Mustang and I was wondering which 351 engine would be best the cleveland or winsor? And which one is easier to bolt on?....thank you
 

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For the street a well cleaned up set of 2V heads will work great! No need for the 4V heads if everything is matched up right.. We built what I like to call a "3V" engine.. :p We used 2V heads and a Performer RPM 4V manifold that I welded up the runners and matched it to the 2V heads, it worked GREAT and made a shit-ton of HP and torque.. That engine was a lot of fun on the street.. :cool:

Oh yeah, that car came to us with 4V heads that the customer spent a lot of money to put on his already fresh engine, after the heads were installed, the car would not even spin a tire, we went back to his 2V heads, after making a few changes with the engine and he could not of been happier..
 
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