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How

open the door. With the window rolled up and door panel off, get an idea of the size of the bar as viewed from the end of the door. Cut a hole in the end of the door big enough to slide the door bar out once it is loose. I used a 4-1/2" angle grinder with a 1/16" or .045" wide wheel, and a die grinder with the same width wheel. However, a drill and a jigsaw will work too.

The door bars are held in by tack welds. You need to drill these out. BE CAREFULL NOT TO DRILL ALL THE WAY THROUGH THE DOOR! You can buy special drill bits made just for drilling out spot welds. You dont HAVE to have them, but it makes the job a lil easier.

Be sure to support the door bar before the last tack is cut out or the bar will fall to the bottom of the door and potentially push a dent outward on the door skin.

You can get the bars out in one piece by sliding them out through the hole you cut in the end of the door and your done unless ya wanna weld the end piece back in.
 

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they are spot welded in each end .you have to drill or grind out were its spot welded & cut bar in the center to remove them . or torch each end and slide bar out seems like their is a tab in the center of the bar that has to cut out too. only thing about torching them leaves 2 big holes in the ends of the doors . it is best to remove doors to do this
 

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Now I'm thinking back to the mid 70's but I seem to remember cutting it up in the door and pulling out the pieces.

Yes, best to take the doors off first...
 

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caution...

Be careful not to give your door tits! LOL In other words Don't ding the outer skin. I drilled the spot welds, cut it in half and pulled it out. It is a 30 lbs weight savings between both sides.
 

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I took them out of a set of doors recently. I weighed it all together and it was 43lbs. I drill the spot welds and then stuck a piece of wood under the crash bar and cut it in half to make it pull out east through all the factory inner door stuff.
 

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how give some info please??i was at 3710 then took out the front and rear bumper supports ,took out the PS ,and went to alum heads ,what els can i do i need to be at your weight
 

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The best way to do this job is to split the outer skin from the inner door frame, using either a spot weld cutter or a panel spreader. At that point the whole inside of the door is accessible, and the impact beam can be removed easily. Next step weld in new skins, paint ,and your done.
 

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3180 with my 215 lbs self in the car that was old setup iron headed BB tube rear end 12 point cage 9 inch aluminum tubs. Door bars still in
 

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The best way to do this job is to split the outer skin from the inner door frame, using either a spot weld cutter or a panel spreader. At that point the whole inside of the door is accessible, and the impact beam can be removed easily. Next step weld in new skins, paint ,and your done.
Uh...Dont think so Tim! MUCH easier to cut a 2" x 6" hole on the end of the door and drill out spot welds and remove in one piece.

I was at 3150ish with driver, no crash bars, no front bumper support(weighs a ton), skelitized the rear bumper support, removed most of the interior(carpet, jute, and gobs of tar weighed over 60 lbs) minus door panels and dash, but did remove metal supports behind dash, aluminum headed SBC and a glide, caltracs split mono's(lighter than multi leafs), and I put in a 12 point moly cage, manual steering box, and no inner fenders, and glass hood.
 
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