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Discussion Starter #1
The Car:
1989 Notchback - factory 4cyl 5sp car
103xxx miles
Rust Free! (not free of spray paint however)

The Goal:
To build a completely street-able car which occasionally will see a dragstrip, autocross event, or road course. Car will have full interior (minus rear seats), power brakes/steering, harness bar with main hoop, ect.

Drivetrain:
GM LY6 6.0L
T56 Magnum







As you can see, the entire car has been doused in blue rattle can paint. The first portion of this build will include a full repair/respray of paint.

Tear Down:




The nice blue interior lol (will be converted to black)







This 4cyl motor ran surprisingly well!








Front end out along with the drivetrain





Interior gone

And the final picture from the first day of tear down....



 

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Dicking bimbos at home
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Where are you at? I'd love to have those blue buckets for my wagon. The shifter hits the bench in second, fourth and reverse.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
The car was purchased at the beginning of October 2014, and this update will syow most of they body work.

As one could guess, stripping spray paint from a car is very difficult. Also, if not properly handled, it could cause big issues for the new coat going on the vehicle. After talking with Jesse about how to approach the bodywork and paint, he thought it was best to try and get the entire car down to bare metal. This way there would be no potential for the new paint to not adhere correctly to the panels.




I probably spent 8 hours using a DA to try and knock off as much spray paint as I could. My time felt wasted as it merely dulled the thick spray paint, but alas it had to be done.




The bay sanded out pretty good, as you can see it is in very good condition. There was a little surface rust under the battery tray, but that was the only issue to speak of.










Rear panel down to bare metal

The entire shell was very straight. There was no signs of prior accidents or repairs to any side of the vehicle. The passenger side however, had a long deep scratch that ran from the side mirror to the gas tank. Looked like someone's ex had fun with a key.









Car is starting to progress in the body/paint









That's all for now...Thanks for reading!
 

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Dicking bimbos at home
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Discussion Starter #8
Small update.... I purchased a complete IRS setup (less calipers, and springs) from a local guy. It came out of his 2004 Cobra with 24k miles and already had Maximum Motorsports bushing kit and toe bars installed, along with an FRPP diff cover. Grabbed it all for $1k....:D





Also got another picture of the shell painted....




Doors and fenders will be painted and hung, along with undercoating the front wheel wells and the bottom side of the car this week.

Here is another cool project that the shop is working on....1949 suburban with a full Roadster Shop Revo front end, maggie'd 6.0L, 4 link, ect.




Wheels are 20" American Racing Salt Flats wrapped in Nitto NT05's. This will be one of the vehicles accompanying us on the Power Tour. Should turn some heads!
 

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Nice progress on the car. What's the final color going to be?
Overall plans for the car besides the cobra rearend??

Keep at the good work.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
That is the final color. Very similar to the factory dove grey color. Looks darker in natural light.

I'll have more updates to post soon
 

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Discussion Starter #11
We decided to go ahead and spray the underside and inner fenders of the shell with rust inhibitor and seal it with a thin layer of undercoating.

Masking the wells and skirts from possible overspray




This shows the condition of the underside. Again, not too shabby for being an '89 but better safe than sorry.





I was told that this was an original 5sp car, but as you can tell by the shifter hole, this was not the case.












Here is the products that the shop used for the coating..





Finished product. I couldn't get a good shot of the underside because of the light, but you get the idea...








Doors and fenders are hung. Still waiting on me to cough up the money to finish out the suspension for the front. Still debating on what style or type of wheels to buy... I want to keep the satin/matte theme concurrent throughout the build, so that will be the color of the wheel.







You can see the true color as it is contrasted by the 1960's thunderbird.

decided to purchase Afco's front K member and control arms, simply because they are well-known in the industry, strongest unit in terms of weight, and their superior fit with their Dynatech swap headers. Only complaint I had is that they did not come with an option for black powdercoating....






Great welds and nice thick tubing




The control arms went in without too much effort, except for the odd tq specs of 159ft/lbs. All in all, it went together fairly well and feels rock solid with no play. I did have to take it apart twice because I forgot to grease the bushings.








There wasn't too much to getting the IRS into the car. Drilling the subframe brace mount holes to 14mm was the only major modification needed.





 

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it is such a nightmare posting pictures on here. I had the same problem and said fuck it and gave up
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Update:

Car is finally a roller! Honestly, I am very happy with the amount of progress I was able to achieve in just 5 short months.

Thursday I installed the front brakes and the rear springs. A friend of mine loaned me a set of wheels to get the car rolling.

I purchased a 13" Baer 4 Track kit. It came with the rotors, complete calipers with pads, stainless steel lines and all the necessary hardware. Total cost of the brake kit was around $1300. Not too bad for a 4 piston setup.




I would have been perfectly fine with some vented blank rotors, hopefully they won't fail too quick. Apparently drilled rotors are known to crack after hard abuse.

The rear was finished off with Eibach progressive springs from a 2004 cobra. The IRS in the car is around 80lbs heavier than the traditional solid rear so a heavier spring was needed. I forget the actual specs but i believe the range was from 510-700lbs compressed. Brake lines were ran in the rear, as we utilized the 11" disc brakes from the factory IRS setup. Hawk HPS pads were added.





Here it is as it sits: glass was put in the front and rear, however I still need to figure out something for the quarter windows. The glass is fine, however the window molding is old and cracking. I've read a few tutorials on how to finish them to look new, so I will probably go that route.

I drove to Jackson MO to pick up a motor. I ended up finding a 2011 6.0 LY6 with factory ls3/l92 heads on it. The motor only has 20k miles on it.







The better flowing square port heads were a big plus for me.....why do you ask? Because I also bought this....




An LSA blower with a ZL1 lid. My buddy and I are both doing very similar swaps. His is going into a 70's C10. Already replaced the spring isolator and now there is zero play on the stock pulley. Grabbed this low mileage blower for 650.

Also bought an 03-04 cobra steering rack and a Maximum Motor sports hybrid steering shaft.


Chris
 

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Good score if even a chevy. Lol. I fight the urge every day to stay with a ford motor vs. A cheap easy power chevy Ls.
I'm true to the car and a 5.0 it will stay with a Coyote. Looking forward to the numbers and how quick the car will be regardless of my all ford hype. HP is HP. Not hating at all. Should be a quick and fun car. The blower will make some power for sure
 

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If I missed it I apologize, what color is the car?
Looks great. Love whit fox body's. I'm quit fond of the original Oxford White myself. Almost looks like 1997 GMC glacier white??
 
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