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I ordered a rock battery just now. He said they only have a 30 day warranty which is not ideal and zero warranty for not using there charger. Hopefully it turns out to be a better battery
I told you I've had 2 of them last me 6 seasons of racing before i switched to Go lithiums only for weight savings, not a problem....
You should be fine if the charger you have does AGM style batteries, i used an older Turbo start charger, it was fine, put it on once a month and top it off on the off-season months.
 
for those who run a 16v battery with an alternator, your accessories dont have any issues with the 18.5-19 volts? (ignition, racepak, pumps, fan, etc)
Ive been looking at the two post and three post 16v rock battery but I still cant decide on which one because I dont think my electronics will handle more than 18v
 
Yensen,

The only issue I had was with the water pump. It was cavitating on 16, reduced the voltage on it and it works great. No other issues with anything else. Good luck!

BTW, I bought a three post Rock battery from a SS racer that was supposed to be nearly new when I first decided to try 16 volts. It was junk, probably not the battery’s fault since it was used. I didn’t bother trying to get my money back, I just bought a new XS battery and I’ve been running it ever since. YMMV
 
Got 4 cars all had 16v turbo start with turbo start chargers. 3 of them went bad in 2 weeks. Threw them all away bought red top Optima changed alt to 12v never looked back 3 years ago big blocks and small blocks. Put house of Payne starters on too cranks good round after round. But I have heard good things about the rock bat nice piece
 
I switched to 16 volt battery 7 years ago. I bought a rock battery and charger package. Battery was always plugged into the charger 24/7. The battery decided to take a shit on me in the staging lanes with 6 cars in a $5K race it was only 1.5 years old. Replaced it with a XS battery and have never looked back. Still using the Rock charger to this day
 
Im between a 14v xspower battery with an alternator or a 16v rock battery without alternator, which one do you think would be the best option for a bracket only race car? Is there another brand offering 14v batteries besides xs?
Not sure but I guess an alternator can help with battery life because you wouldnt need to charge the battery every round, right?
 
Definitely an alternator with either choice. My East Coast alternator has been flawless but House of Payne stuff comes highly recommended. Whatever you do, do not buy some Ebay POS thinking it’s the same. We changed out my friend’s at the last race when it took a dump.
 
Im between a 14v xspower battery with an alternator or a 16v rock battery without alternator, which one do you think would be the best option for a bracket only race car? Is there another brand offering 14v batteries besides xs?
Not sure but I guess an alternator can help with battery life because you wouldnt need to charge the battery every round, right?


My no-box car always has an alternator, will not race without it.
I learned my lesson decades ago.

My T/S car has never had one, but if I ever do switch to EFI, it absolutely will be getting one!!!

A dial in class really has no reason not to use it.

Good luck, race safe!!

.
 
Discussion starter · #30 ·
My no-box car always has an alternator, will not race without it.
I learned my lesson decades ago.

My T/S car has never had one, but if I ever do switch to EFI, it absolutely will be getting one!!!

A dial in class really has no reason not to use it.

Good luck, race safe!!

.
I agree. My inlaws and buddies dont run a alternator on any of there bracket cars because of power loss. Says its worth a good tenth. I can take my belt off and see no difference in my et. If you have room for one then it needs to be on there.
 
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Even if true, what in the frick good is that 0.10 when weather starts coming in and they give you 10 minutes between rounds!!!
Some guys just don't get it. I'm there to win rounds, not set personal best every week :rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes:


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I agree. My inlaws and buddies dont run a alternator on any of there bracket cars because of power loss. Says its worth a good tenth. I can take my belt off and see no difference in my et. If you have room for one then it needs to be on there.

If you are worried about the drag of the alternator then put a switch on it (97% of the drag is the current it outputs to satisfy coil, pumps, fan etc) and take it out of circuit before you stage. I always run an alt on any bracket car as repeatability is paramount not et. On a 6 second ride then yeah no alt and a 20v power tool battery for the run and a crank pack with a quick disconnect for starting are the shit.
 
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I'm switching my no-box car to the rock also.
Several very smart guys highly recommended them as long as you use their charger.
I guess it is pretty badass??


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I have used Go-Lithium batteries for years with zero issues, just over 9 lbs ea., 2 of them use the same space as 1 group 24. I have had Rock batteries as well with zero issues, I needed the .07 the weight difference gave me to run my index in the heat.
 
Discussion starter · #36 ·
.

I'm switching my no-box car to the rock also.
Several very smart guys highly recommended them as long as you use their charger.
I guess it is pretty badass??


.
Battery is 4 pounds lighter then my xs was. Charger seems to be of higher quality but i dont know. They better be a good set up for 700 bucks it cost me.
 
I run a msd digital 7+, udx racepak, biondo 450, electric water pump, spal 14"fan, transbrake, line lock, throttle stop, rons primer plus electric fuel pump, air compressor, front and rear lights, I dont know if all of this things could handle the 19volts, Im going to ask them for recommendations.
What electronics do you use?
 
6AL Programmable, K&R delay box, Racepak Sportsman, Dedenbear electric water pump, Spal 14 inch fan, transbrake, throttle stop, throttle enhancer, Rons primer plus electric pump, air compressor system, front and rear lights, dash lights. My old water pump was cavitating and I used a step down box on it. Never tried this water pump without it, for all I know it could be fine. No problems so far.
 
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