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16 volt battery issue

14K views 62 replies 18 participants last post by  Mitch H 
#1 ·
So i have a XS 16 volt battery and XS charger. This is the 3rd season on them both. 1st race of this yr my charger popped and had a small flame and smoked badly. I bought a new charger and have been fine every week until this past weekend. Went to start the car sat morning before time trials and it cranked slowly and stopped. Battery is completely dead. It will not charge at all. So the battery is junk now as well. So does XS stuff just not last? Both charger and battery needed replaced after only 2 seasons of racing. Have to buy a battery this week so should i look into another brand? Had several racers tell me Saturday that XS batteries are junk and to buy a different one.
 
#3 ·
Truth be told, the battery is what most likely took out your first charger.

What type of battery were you running? AGM or lead/acid type? And is the charger the right one for the type of battery you are running?

Does XS have recommendations / guidelines to follow when charging their battery? With my Turbo Start lead/acid batteries I ran, they recommended that before each race, the battery charger be allowed to complete the charging cycle in full. It needed to go into "float mode" and that was near the end of the cycle. And to put the charger on the battery after each round if possible.
 
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#4 ·
I am on my 3rd season on 2 XS 16v batts and they are going out as we speak. I also run a 16v alt. I have a dsr 16v charger. Seems to be about the life span from what I've heard. Supposedly, the c-tek pulse charger is what you want as it charges the battery different/better. I didn't use any batt tender or anything on mine during the winter and it's not a heated garage. So that doesn't help either.
 
#5 ·
I have the xp1000 series xs battery. The correct xs charger with float mode. Battery stays on charger all winter long in a heated garage. I literally just loaded the car 2 days before i went to the track Saturday. It turned over slow which was strange. Then come saturday there was nothing. Wouldn't even run the water pump. When the charger popped at the start of the season it was right when turned it off. Before i clould even turn to take cables off battery it popped and melted down.
 
#8 ·
The only thing I like about 16 volt batteries is how fast the engine turns over and how fast power windows work, that is it!

When they puke, whatcha gonna do? I stick with 12 volt crap, can always steal the battery out of my trailer or tow vehicle if I am desperate. I run a heavy ass battery in both of our race cars, group 34 or something. Think it weighs 50 pounds or more. Anyway, those bitches as great and I am not worried one bit about the weight, we slow the cars down for 10.00 and 11.50 Index Racing anyway.

A 16v battery below 14 volts is as useless as tits on a bull, they are DEAD! Seems crazy huh, since a 12v battery works just fine........... It's the way it is.

And OP, electronics are only good if you keep the magic smoke inside the semiconductors. Once you let it out, it no-worky no more! :) Sorry, just had to, I've done electronics all my life. You may be able to fix that charger, really surprised a fuse didn't pop first inside of it.
 
#11 ·
.

My D1000 lasted several seasons.
The turbo start before that did puke out at the track, so I did stick a 12V in and finished the event.
The only issue was the recessed plugs didn't work, so I had to charge from inside the car.
Just because you run a 16V doesn't mean you can't throw in a 12v in an emergency.

.
 
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#18 ·
That sucks. Sometimes even if lots of people are having good luck with something and you are not it is better for YOU to switch to something else. Case in point. I had a number of friends that were running Goodyear tires. Even though I had never had any luck with Goodyears I went ahead and bought a set. Total crap on my car. I wouldn’t run them again if you gave me some. Maybe it’s time for you to switch. Good luck!
 
#23 ·
for those who run a 16v battery with an alternator, your accessories dont have any issues with the 18.5-19 volts? (ignition, racepak, pumps, fan, etc)
Ive been looking at the two post and three post 16v rock battery but I still cant decide on which one because I dont think my electronics will handle more than 18v
 
#24 ·
Yensen,

The only issue I had was with the water pump. It was cavitating on 16, reduced the voltage on it and it works great. No other issues with anything else. Good luck!

BTW, I bought a three post Rock battery from a SS racer that was supposed to be nearly new when I first decided to try 16 volts. It was junk, probably not the battery’s fault since it was used. I didn’t bother trying to get my money back, I just bought a new XS battery and I’ve been running it ever since. YMMV
 
#25 ·
Got 4 cars all had 16v turbo start with turbo start chargers. 3 of them went bad in 2 weeks. Threw them all away bought red top Optima changed alt to 12v never looked back 3 years ago big blocks and small blocks. Put house of Payne starters on too cranks good round after round. But I have heard good things about the rock bat nice piece
 
#26 ·
I switched to 16 volt battery 7 years ago. I bought a rock battery and charger package. Battery was always plugged into the charger 24/7. The battery decided to take a shit on me in the staging lanes with 6 cars in a $5K race it was only 1.5 years old. Replaced it with a XS battery and have never looked back. Still using the Rock charger to this day
 
#27 ·
Im between a 14v xspower battery with an alternator or a 16v rock battery without alternator, which one do you think would be the best option for a bracket only race car? Is there another brand offering 14v batteries besides xs?
Not sure but I guess an alternator can help with battery life because you wouldnt need to charge the battery every round, right?
 
#29 ·
Im between a 14v xspower battery with an alternator or a 16v rock battery without alternator, which one do you think would be the best option for a bracket only race car? Is there another brand offering 14v batteries besides xs?
Not sure but I guess an alternator can help with battery life because you wouldnt need to charge the battery every round, right?


My no-box car always has an alternator, will not race without it.
I learned my lesson decades ago.

My T/S car has never had one, but if I ever do switch to EFI, it absolutely will be getting one!!!

A dial in class really has no reason not to use it.

Good luck, race safe!!

.
 
#31 ·
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Even if true, what in the frick good is that 0.10 when weather starts coming in and they give you 10 minutes between rounds!!!
Some guys just don't get it. I'm there to win rounds, not set personal best every week :rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes:


.
 
#34 ·
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I'm switching my no-box car to the rock also.
Several very smart guys highly recommended them as long as you use their charger.
I guess it is pretty badass??


.
 
#36 ·
.

I'm switching my no-box car to the rock also.
Several very smart guys highly recommended them as long as you use their charger.
I guess it is pretty badass??


.
Battery is 4 pounds lighter then my xs was. Charger seems to be of higher quality but i dont know. They better be a good set up for 700 bucks it cost me.
 
#39 ·
I run a msd digital 7+, udx racepak, biondo 450, electric water pump, spal 14"fan, transbrake, line lock, throttle stop, rons primer plus electric fuel pump, air compressor, front and rear lights, I dont know if all of this things could handle the 19volts, Im going to ask them for recommendations.
What electronics do you use?
 
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