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Switching to a 16 volt but which one... been doing research on some but which one is the best bang for your $$ leaning towards the rock but then there is turbostart, xs,odyssey, kinetik, braille and I'm sure I'm not even scratching the surface I've been told no matter what get a good charger or you'll trash the battery, how many years do u get out of em
Etc ect...
 

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Maintaining a battery is no different than any other component of the race car. There are many good ones out there and you're gonna get different opinions. Me, I ran Turbo Start batteries and their charger and never had any issues.

Two pieces of advice:
1) if you are bracket racing ... stay away from the light weight batteries.
2) use the correct charger for the battery you buy.
 

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#1 Killer of all batteries is Improper charging by the user IMO.
In other words letting them set up in a state of discharge and dieing out.
Keep your batteries charged up.

I think the Rock 16v built by Lifeline/Concorde is the best AGM and you need the Rock charger built by Interacter,its a fully automatic charger that you leave on your battery 24/7/365.
The charger is the life blood of a battery IMO.

Below is some good info to read about all type of batteries.
http://www.solar-electric.com/deep-cycle-battery-faq.html

John can give you some good info as well.
Good Luck.
 

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Maintaining a battery is no different than any other component of the race car. There are many good ones out there and you're gonna get different opinions. Me, I ran Turbo Start batteries and their charger and never had any issues.

Two pieces of advice:
1) if you are bracket racing ... stay away from the light weight batteries.
2) use the correct charger for the battery you buy.


Number 3. Don't be mad when you don't see a difference going from a good 12 volt battery to a 16 volt after you spend all that money.

After buying and using two turbo start batteries I went back to a Diehard Platinum 12 volt battery in my 8.40 Daytona and never lost a thing. And that was even without an alternator.
 

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I have had good luck with the turbo start 16 v battery & charger. Going on my 3rd year no problems. I Put one in my kids car also.
 

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All three of us in our group are running the Rock 16v, We all bought them about 3 years ago and they have been great. If you do buy one get the charger that goes with it.
 

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We have run Turbo Start, Xs, Kinetic and know several guys that run Rock.... I do think there is a difference in performance though. Most guys are running two 12 Volt batteries and drop to 1 16Volt so that is a 40 lb savings... also.. you should see a pick up on several other things... the Coil will have more ignition power.. this is physics... if a coil has 1000 turns then the math is simple.. 12 volts (primary wires) x 1000 turns = 12000 volts (secondary voltage).... when you go to 16 volts those 4 extra volts are multiplied by the turns.. so 16 v x 1000 = 16,000 volts ...
The key is to adjust the spark plug gap for this and maximize the tune up... not just ignition but fuel also.

also the fuel pump will flow better, the water pump will flow better, and even the fan will run faster....

If you use all of this in your tune you should be able to pick up the car some amount....


One of the other posts were dead on also.. make sure you have the proper charger.....

Also if you are going to hot lap the car and do NOT have a 16v alternator, consider doing a 12v tether... here is what we built:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SzZJdTc5Luw

I would get some quotes from guys on here for different packages... there are plenty of guys that have deals and can hook you up. The key is to find someone that can help you on shipping.. that is what kills you on batteries.

For example... Ronnie Davis is a Rock dealer... so if you are going to be at a race he is at, then you can save some shipping....


We can get Turbostart, Xs, and Kinetic thru different sources..... like Nickles... same deal... if you are going to be somewhere together then you can save some shipping....just have to see who is close to you.

If you need it before the season starts.. then just ask guys to send you quotes.. that is the best way.
 

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There's definitely a significant difference between any 12v system and 16v, no question. We used two different LithiumPros 16v batteries and have been very pleased with the performance as well as how little time it takes to charge them. We run no alternator and plenty of current draw with all the electronics, nitrous systems, etc. They have also been great people to work with.
 

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There's definitely a significant difference between any 12v system and 16v, no question. We used two different LithiumPros 16v batteries and have been very pleased with the performance as well as how little time it takes to charge them. We run no alternator and plenty of current draw with all the electronics, nitrous systems, etc. They have also been great people to work with.
X's2 Lithium Pro t1600 no issues and I bracket race with it. Great service.
 

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Is anyone using a Schumacher psc-32516a-dsr with any of the listed batterys
 

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Rock 16v and charger here,very happy with its performance thus far
 

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I have had ZERO issues with XS Batteries and their charger. I also run an alternator on mine.
 

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We have run Turbo Start, Xs, Kinetic and know several guys that run Rock.... I do think there is a difference in performance though. Most guys are running two 12 Volt batteries and drop to 1 16Volt so that is a 40 lb savings... also.. you should see a pick up on several other things... the Coil will have more ignition power.. this is physics... if a coil has 1000 turns then the math is simple.. 12 volts (primary wires) x 1000 turns = 12000 volts (secondary voltage).... when you go to 16 volts those 4 extra volts are multiplied by the turns.. so 16 v x 1000 = 16,000 volts ...
I designed ignitions, parts of ignitions and charging systems, and ignition and charging system test gear in the 1980's.

What you say is only true if the coil is in a transformer mode and is not near saturation. An example would be a transformer with 1:100 ratio, operating at less than flux saturation. This is the ONLY case where what you say would be true. Someone extrapolated that to all cases, and that is absolutely wrong.

A transformer system, like used like a CD ignition (ie MSD), steps up the charge in the "coil". It hits the coil with a charge from an energy storage capacitor. Above a certain voltage the supply voltage has little to do with the coil output in CD. They mostly depend on how the electronics charges the capacitor, and that is often regulated. This is why the things run to a certain discharge point and then quickly lose energy.

For a flyback type system or induction coil, which is an interrupter system that breaks coil current (ie points or Duraspark), the spark energy and voltage is dependent on stored magnetic flux and how rapidly it drops. On the interruption, the more flux and the more rapid the flux loss the higher the kick. With the Duraspark current is limited by transistors, so any increase in supply does not increase stored flux. That means it cannot increase spark. It only increases heat in the TFI module.

Also, most properly designed induction coils (for break systems) or transformers (for CD) are near saturation. This is done to squeeze maximum energy out at design operating charge currents (flyback systems) or discharge voltages (CD transformer systems).

You might see some spark improvement, but mostly you see a heat increase. Also, once the spark fires and ignites the fuel, it is all done. It doesn't matter if 1 joule fires the spark, or 15,000 joules fire the spark. If it lights it lights. Only if it misfires will more spark make more power.

The key is to adjust the spark plug gap for this and maximize the tune up... not just ignition but fuel also.
Good luck on actually see a result from that. We ran dozens of engines on dynos and never saw anything like that, and we were looking for it.

That of course, does not keep the marketing guys from making shit up to sell parts. Get an engine that is misfiring on the test stand, and a hotter spark can double power. Makes for great ad copy.

also the fuel pump will flow better, the water pump will flow better, and even the fan will run faster....
The only case where a faster moving fuel pump, fan, or water pump will improve something is if you do not have enough to start with.

Conventional DC electric motors speed regulate by back-EMF in the windings. The spinning armature generates a counter voltage that increases with speed, and eventually matches the supply voltage (after allowing for voltage drops for the running current through resistances). What you wind up with is much less than 1 for 1 increase in flow, but much more than 1 for 1 increase in heat.

But you have to ask yourself, "is my system already starving for fuel or cooling?" I suggest, if a system does not have enough fuel to make power or enough cooling to maintain temperatures, you need to improve the system. It is really pretty stupid to crank up the voltage to make up for something being so small it can't keep up with demand.

Unless you cannot buy an electrical part that has adequate head room to run the ignition, fuel, or cooling, upping voltage is really pretty dumb. It is like waxing your car with go-fast wax so the air slips by.

If adjusting voltage up actually made a power improvement, you would see it done all the time. Too little voltage can hurt, but once it reaches a normal operating voltage, anything more just beats the shit out of your parts. The only thing faster is how fast your electrical stuff will wear out.
 

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http://brinkracecraft.com/
Call Mike & ask about the
Lithionics Batteries... several to choose from,
very light 16 volt works very good, I got 1 for each of our cars , came with chargers .. very good price & good warranty too!!
Mike will treat you right, tell him Terry Henry sent you.

 

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Holly Crap! didn't mean to get a lesson in Electrical Engineering......thought I was done with that in 2001 when I actually graduated with a degree.....but oh yeah...mine was Mechanical....

so I will have to concede this pissing contest......LOL

however since I do know Mechanical things :p When you drop from TWO 12V batteries (the accepted standard for non-alternator drag cars) to ONE 16V battery (the 16V standard) you loose 40 to 45 lbs...... Hell even my lawn mower is faster with 45 less lbs......

As far as if 16V helps.......if it didn't help Pro-Stock ...they wouldn't have ever converted...


Now where is my Flux-Capaciter? Anyone seen a "Mr Fusion" for sale...

I hope someone got that refference.....
 
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