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That seems like a band aid to a larger issue.
I hope it isn't. I'm running a 3 core radiator and the largest cfm fan I could find. If there's something I'm missing let me know. I'm presently running 12v without an alternator so I'm not getting the benefit of 14v from an alternator that's why I'm switching over to 16v.
 

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I hope it isn't. I'm running a 3 core radiator and the largest cfm fan I could find. If there's something I'm missing let me know. I'm presently running 12v without an alternator so I'm not getting the benefit of 14v from an alternator that's why I'm switching over to 16v.
There's certainly a LOT more someone would need to know to make suggestions.

However, as someone stated already, it's doubtful more voltage is going to improve the cooling significantly. And if it does, it will only be a idle and slow speeds.
 

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Are you running a thermostat or a flow limiter to slow the water enough for the radiator to remove heat?
 

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The Liquor Makes Me Think
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How clean is your tune up? Timing could be putting excessive heat into the block.
 

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+4 volts will make a substantial difference in the amount of
work your fan can do.....whether it fixes your issue cant say.
 

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Are you running a thermostat or a flow limiter to slow the water enough for the radiator to remove heat?
Please don't throw out that "water moves too fast to cool" statement that is wrong.

More water flow = more heat transfer. Period.
 

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Please don't throw out that "water moves too fast to cool" statement that is wrong.

More water flow = more heat transfer. Period.
From the attached link.

Eliminating the Thermostat
One of the greatest — or perhaps worst — cooling system myths is that you can remove your thermostat to eliminate overheating. This will only add insult to injury! When coolant never has a chance to give up heat via the radiator, it gets hotter and hotter, especially if you’re stuck in traffic. And even on the open road, coolant never has a chance to park in the radiator long enough to give up heat energy to the atmosphere.
Never operate your engine without a thermostat!



https://www.onallcylinders.com/2016/07/21/9-cooling-system-myths-and-mistakes-and-why-to-avoid-them/
 

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The Liquor Makes Me Think
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From the attached link.

Eliminating the Thermostat
One of the greatest — or perhaps worst — cooling system myths is that you can remove your thermostat to eliminate overheating. This will only add insult to injury! When coolant never has a chance to give up heat via the radiator, it gets hotter and hotter, especially if you’re stuck in traffic. And even on the open road, coolant never has a chance to park in the radiator long enough to give up heat energy to the atmosphere.
Never operate your engine without a thermostat!


https://www.onallcylinders.com/2016/07/21/9-cooling-system-myths-and-mistakes-and-why-to-avoid-them/

and so it begins.


If you slow the flow down to increase the time to "cool it". dont you also increase the time it has to "heat it"?
 

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Moving coolant too quickly does not allow the heat to dissipate. More info from another site.



Typical design
The oil radiator for the coolant radiator may also be a separate component. The individual components are assembled. This endows the coolant radiator with its form. Cooling is effected by means of cooling fins (mesh). The air flowing through takes heat out of the coolant. The coolant flows from top to bottom, which is called downdraft, or with a cross flow (right to left or vice versa). For both variants, sufficient time and a sufficient cross-section are necessary for the air to efficiently cool the coolant.

https://www.hella.com/techworld/uk/Technical/Car-cooling-system/Engine-cooling-2800/
 

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If you notice neither of the articles in those links are written by Engineers but by laymen with no formal technical background. Read blogs and other "articles" and you find this and other misconceptions all over the place on the internet. My credentials are Bachelor of Science in Mechanical Engineering and am registered as a Professional Engineer in Florida. I've got almost 40 years engineering experience including 10+ years in power generation plants. Heat exchangers are the life and blood of these plants.

Years ago I wrote this and posted in on YB.

https://www.yellowbullet.com/forum/showthread.php?t=981810

If you want to discuss any of the points in the above thread, feel free to bump it with your question and I will respond.

Finally, as someone else stated, we want as much air as possible to pass thru the radiator. To do that we increase the speed of the air which effectively increases the mass of the air. Air doesn't need to go slow thru a radiator to be effective. Air and water both reject heat better at higher flow rates.
 

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From the attached link.

Eliminating the Thermostat
One of the greatest — or perhaps worst — cooling system myths is that you can remove your thermostat to eliminate overheating. This will only add insult to injury! When coolant never has a chance to give up heat via the radiator, it gets hotter and hotter, especially if you’re stuck in traffic. And even on the open road, coolant never has a chance to park in the radiator long enough to give up heat energy to the atmosphere.
Never operate your engine without a thermostat!



https://www.onallcylinders.com/2016/07/21/9-cooling-system-myths-and-mistakes-and-why-to-avoid-them/
But wouldnt the water stay in the engine longer also making it hotter when it gets to the radiator . :)

I dont run a thermostat .

It was 97 degrees the other day and my turbo SBC never got hotter than 185 even with the AC on . :smt102
 

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I hope it isn't. I'm running a 3 core radiator and the largest cfm fan I could find. If there's something I'm missing let me know. I'm presently running 12v without an alternator so I'm not getting the benefit of 14v from an alternator that's why I'm switching over to 16v.
It's a Reher Morrison 540 running 38 degrees timing.

Here's a little form to fill out as playing 20 questions on "whatcha ya got" helps no one. I'll even help ya out with some of yer info:


Car:
Race or Street: Race
Engine/fuel: 540 BBC/
Water Jackets - block and heads, heads, partially filled:

Power adder:
Timing: 38 deg

Water Pump:
Hoses - AN size or stock:
Radiator core size (height, width, thickness, rows, fins/inch): , , , 3,

Radiator material - aluminum, brass, painted:
Radiator sealing to radiator support:

Coolant - water or AF mix:

Fan(s) - belt drive or electric, diameter, brand name, cfm, rpm, volts:
Fan shroud - yes, no:
Distance between fan and engine:

Thermostat or restrictor, restrictor size:
Other coolers mounted in front of radiator:
Overheat/hot running condition, i.e. return road, pits:

Pix of setup (highly recommended):
 
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