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16 volt alternator

4K views 15 replies 9 participants last post by  GregS 
Twin Fuel pumps- 30 or 40 amp each
Twin Fans 30-40 amp
XFI ?
MSD 7531 with HVC 2 coil
LED FAST DASH
Meziere 55gpm electric water pump
Meziere 55gpm elec water pump for intercooler
Tach and 4 gauges
line lock
transbrake

Lights when running at night....

Should be about it.

Greg
I agree that a properly working 140a alternator will run everything you have. Have you checked the alt output voltage setting? As stated, if it's under the battery voltage, it will discharge your batteries. 16v batts fully charged are around 17-17.2v so the alt needs to be set above that, 18-18.5v preferrably.

The t/brake, line lock don't add to the alt requirement as they are momentary.

The fuel pumps, ECU drivers and CDI will pull only pull the max current under heavy load. The highest drawing fuel pumps I've ever seen are the Magnafuel at about 27A at 75 psi, yet they are around 15A or less at 40-43 psi. Low impedance inj's can pull 5-7A ea at 90% DC and 15-20 ms, again they pull much less at lower operating parameters. Some elec fan designs will pull 12-15A on start up, but fade off as the blade gets up to speed and only pull 8A or so while running. Anyway, your current alternator, unless it's faulty, should easily run your car IMO.
 
I will check the alternator...I don't think the alternator is adjustable. I have looked before. It has one single wire. It has been back to powermaster twice. I think they found something last time.

I am running 8 160lb injectors...which are low imped. The fuel system is by Product engineering....which I believe is similar to the Magna Fuel company in design.

I will start it up and put a meter on it. Good point on reading the voltage....I will check. When I charge the batteries, they are around 17-17.5 volts. The single wire is attached via #2 wire to the trunk positive side.

It is a powermaster....
Whoah, #2 charge wire is huge, although you really can never get too big off a wire.

If you are ever curious to see exactly what current a component pulls, buy a little inductive low amp probe for your Fluke meter. They are also available for about every other type of DVOM. They are non-invasive, fully adjustable and usually have a selector switch that allows you to check up to 40A or 400A and a little dial to zero them. They are darn accurate.

You can test components individually on either the ground or power wire; or you can clamp it on the alt wire, start the car, disconnect the battery and see how much the whole car is pulling from the alternator; of course you don't want to run any alternator like that for very long.
 
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