I think I have the room but I don't want to buy another set of wheels right now. They ain't cheap. Plus I screwed up a second time by not changing bolt pattern. I had 5 on 5 axles so when I ordered new wheels I ordered same bolt pattern. That's not a very popular pattern so they are hard to sell. Should have done 4 3/4" since I was going to have to get new axles anyhow. Didn't plan far enough ahead. Act in haste, repent at leisure.
That's why I run tubes. I ran the 10" tire for years but without the tubes they would really wad up. I could only run 10 1/2 or 11 lbs of air to eliminate spin. I haven't played with air pressure on the 13.5 tire yet.
I have just had to swap from the pbr 29.5x10.5 to the Hoosier 29.5x10.5 CO7 due to no new pbr 's in Australia .
I have retained the same shock settings , and found the Hoosier likes more psi . Gone from 19 1/4 (pbr) to 24psi , stopped improving @ 24
The issue I have is the Hoosier is simply...
Just a question to some of you that may have any tricks up your sleeve to seal mickey thompson 32x14-15 bias ply slicks when using beadlocks? I just purchased a brand new set of billet specialties single beadlock wheels and a brand new set of MT slicks but I have noticed they have been loosing...
Have room for either tire on a 16x16" beadlock, no rules.
3300lbs, back-half ladder bar 68 camaro, building a new engine and looking for 1,000whp.
Which tire is better? Just go bigger since I have room?
Ive been running the 27-10.5.15 Hoosier QTP for 7 years. I am looking for a little consistency and everyone is telling me to try the Mickey Thompson R drag radial (255/60/15). It is a leaf spring car, all Calvert rear components, Viking double adj up front, 3500lbs, c4 w/brake, 3.89 gear, and...