I think I have the room but I don't want to buy another set of wheels right now. They ain't cheap. Plus I screwed up a second time by not changing bolt pattern. I had 5 on 5 axles so when I ordered new wheels I ordered same bolt pattern. That's not a very popular pattern so they are hard to sell. Should have done 4 3/4" since I was going to have to get new axles anyhow. Didn't plan far enough ahead. Act in haste, repent at leisure.
That's why I run tubes. I ran the 10" tire for years but without the tubes they would really wad up. I could only run 10 1/2 or 11 lbs of air to eliminate spin. I haven't played with air pressure on the 13.5 tire yet.
I have just had to swap from the pbr 29.5x10.5 to the Hoosier 29.5x10.5 CO7 due to no new pbr 's in Australia .
I have retained the same shock settings , and found the Hoosier likes more psi . Gone from 19 1/4 (pbr) to 24psi , stopped improving @ 24
The issue I have is the Hoosier is simply...
I’m about switch from Hoosier 275/60/15 DR2s to the captioned 28x10.5/15 biased ply slicks and wanted to hear from anyone who may have ran this slick on their C6 or if anyone has done a comparison of them to a 28” drag radial on an auto trans car.
The reason for the switch is that traction is...
From a strictly traction standpoint on a 12" rim which is the better tire? From my research it seems they are the same compound and construction but with the R having more tread cuts. My initial thought is that it's larger size would more than make up for the additional tread voids. Thoughts?