Yellow Bullet Forums banner

1 - 14 of 14 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi guys,
question from the topic. Does anybody know of one? I only find greasable ones..
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,248 Posts
I don't believe they exist. I called/emailed several distributors and was told that none exist. Most if not all of the 1310/1350 crossover u-joint bodies are cast/formed by the same manufacturer (I believe in China) and then finished out by the brand owner. Even the so-called heavy duty units are using the same u-joint body.

They don't hold up to much power either. I broke one not all that long ago and trashed my driveshaft and trans yoke straps. Low 400s on the whp/wtq in a light car. I ended up upgrading the pinion yoke to a 1350 and had a 3" 1350 drive shaft made. Go all solid 1310 or 1350. Don't use a crossover if you make decent power and can avoid it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I don't believe they exist. I called/emailed several distributors and was told that none exist. Most if not all of the 1310/1350 crossover u-joint bodies are cast/formed by the same manufacturer (I believe in China) and then finished out by the brand owner. Even the so-called heavy duty units are using the same u-joint body.

They don't hold up to much power either. I broke one not all that long ago and trashed my driveshaft and trans yoke straps. Low 400s on the whp/wtq in a light car. I ended up upgrading the pinion yoke to a 1350 and had a 3" 1350 drive shaft made. Go all solid 1310 or 1350. Don't use a crossover if you make decent power and can avoid it.
Yes a complete upgrade of drivetrain will follow, probably next season. Until then i thought i might replace at least the U Joints with solid ones and install a SFI loop..

May i ask in which scenario your Joint collapsed? How did it happen? And why did it take the yoke/driveshaft with it?.. i am sorry for your loss
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,248 Posts
It sheared the 1310 ends off about 10-15' feet off the line while slipping the clutch. Driveshaft and yoke were spinning at different speeds and it ripped one ear off the driveshaft, tore the other and broke a billet strap off the yoke. When inspecting the aftermath, the grease holes were fairly large and not centered. Probably only an 1/8 inch of metal or so on the thinnest side.

I was able to reuse the 1350 trans yoke after I cleaned it up and purchased new straps.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I checked my trans side combination joint, its a greasable one 1350-1310 from SKF. But at least its in good condition, moves freely with zero play.
Whereas the diff side joint is a 1310. It has zero play, but moves rather unwillingly and seems very old, probably the original one.
I ordererd a 1310 solid as a replacement, its the least i can do.

Did you have a drive shaft loop? did it prevent further damage?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,682 Posts
I remember being told there is a correct way to install geaseable u joints. You want to compress the grease hole versus pulling on the grease hole.
 

·
Satans Daddy
Joined
·
17,048 Posts
Someone ^^^ has been drinking the bong water.........again
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,248 Posts
Did you have a drive shaft loop? did it prevent further damage?
No loop. It is a C4 Corvette and my dumb ass thought the driveshaft was pretty damn secure by the torque arm (C beam) and the tunnel. No real chance of it hitting the ground but it did poke a small hole in the trans tunnel from bouncing around in there. I am installing a loop in the next few days while I have everything apart doing carrier and suspension bushings. I only need half a loop, it will be bolted to the C beam.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,382 Posts
I'll second the "doesn't exist". Checked with Spicer, Moog, Neapco, and Strange years ago to no avail. 1310 non greasable no problem, 1330 to 1350 non greasable no problem, but never 1310 to 1350.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,682 Posts
Someone ^^^ has been drinking the bong water.........again
Educate yourself and get back to me.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,600 Posts
  • Like
Reactions: Camaromeo

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,248 Posts
Listed as solid, might work for you.
I saw that one back when I was searching and couldn't get a definitive answer. Summit tech on the phone said it appears to be a cast piece and if it is greasable then it couldn't be solid. Definitely appears to be cast from the photo and not a forging like other solid u-joints. I couldn't get an answer out of Speed Master on it. I called and emailed them.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
15 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Listed as solid, might work for you.
It def. looks like cast. And i think its just an error of the manufacturer to lable it as solid, since the looks of it and the proclaimed greasability contradicts that 100%

Procomp u-joint? LOL ... don't even think about it.
Yeah well.. i will never buy something from them that in any way has to convert a force.. maybe a timing pointer or a carb spacer but not this stuff..
 
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
Top