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Old 12-06-2018, 10:34 PM   #31
asel.mike
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As I continue to try to decide on an engine, I keep coming back to the Jeep 4.0 and the Vortec 4200. I like the 4200 better in almost every way except it wasn’t offered as a manual. In order to do the manual conversion a custom flywheel is required, and factory parts from a Colorado can take you the rest of the way. So what I’ve been considering is swapping the 4200 with the automatic trans. Then driving it as an automatic for a while to decide if I want to do the manual conversion or not.

If this was y’alls project, what would you do? 4200 with auto then possibly manual later, 4200 with manual right off the bat, or jeep 4.0 with manual right off the bat?
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Old 12-09-2018, 01:47 PM   #32
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Default Re: 63 AMC Classic Pro Touring Build

I got to work on the Rambler quite a bit this weekend. I made good progress on the wheel wells!

I needed to cut the inner fender well and the fender lip to clear the tire. I lifted the tire as high as I could to check clearance. The sidewall of the tire was rubbing close to full bump, so I cut the fender lip off to get better clearance.





Cutting the fender lip let me take the tire up to full bump. I marked the inner fender about 2" above the tire. This will leave plenty of clearance if I go to a bigger tire.

After I got everything cut the way I wanted I had to grind the undercoating off the metal so I'd be able to weld it. This SUCKED. I had to wash my hair and face 3 times this evening to get all the rubber out.

Next I cut paper templates to fit the spaces I needed to fill.



I transferred my templates to sheet metal and left a lip to make plug welding tabs. I thought I wanted to do plug welds on both sides of the filler piece, but after cutting them and starting to bend the tabs, I decided I'd rather do a regular weld where the inner fender met my filler piece. I just couldn't bend the second set of tabs the way I wanted to get a decent fit up.



This realization was kind of a bummer, after having punched SO MANY FRIGGIN PLUG WELD HOLES. But it turned out to be the right choice.



I cut off the second set of tabs, then finished fitting the filler pieces. I tacked them all in, and got the drivers side welded all the way out.

I also bent a piece of 1/4" round bar to match the curve of the fender lip. I welded it in to add back some rigidity that was lost by cutting out the fender lip. I think the round bar should be less likely to shred the side of a tire if it rubs too.



I got about half way through welding the passenger side, and ran out of welding gas. Cry

Since I couldn't keep welding, I ground down the welds on the outside of both sets of fender flares. I tried not to go too crazy so I didnt burn through a panel. I think a little bondo will finish it up just fine.



After this, I zip tied my sway bar up under the car to do some visualizing. I think I've got a plan now for how to integrate the sway bar with my crossmember.

I'm going to build a new mount to bolt to the upright. The mount will move the tabs the sway bar end attaches to. It will move the tabs out toward the wheel enough that the mount clears the crossmember.

Then, I'm going to heat up and bend both ends of the sway bar out enough to match the new width of the mounts on the uprights. I'm thinking if I do my heating and bending in the right places, it shouldn't compromise the sway bar. If it does... Oh well. I'll get one of those kits for making a custom width sway bar, or I wont run one after this one breaks.



It looks like the sway bar will fit perfectly in front of the gas tank. It should just take some simple brackets for the mounts to bolt into.



What do you guys think of the Sway bar plan? Anybody ever bent a sway bar?
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Old 01-01-2019, 11:44 PM   #33
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Default Re: 63 AMC Classic Pro Touring Build

I just about finished up the sway bar and mounts today.

I started by building my new mounts where the sway bar end links attach to the upright.





Then I mounted them up to the uprights to figure out my plan for bending the sway bar.



My new tabs move the mounting position outward 1" and forward about an inch. This guided how I bent the sway bar.

First I traced the bar out on the ground and made some reference mark. I decided to bend the bar out right before it starts going across the car. Then I'd bend it back in 3" away from the first bend. This would move the entire arm of the sway bar out.



I heated and bent both sides at the first bend point. I ended up bending them out 4" at the tips.



Then I heated and bent both sides 3" further down the bar. This time I bent them back inward. I was aiming for a mark 1" outside of the original end position. Offsetting my bends moved the entire arm outward.



Then I test fitted the bar with the end links. I realized I couldn't reach full bump because the bar was hitting this link on the rear of the upright. I'm not sure what the technical term is, but the going name at my house today was "pain in the butt".



I pulled the bar back out to heat and straighten the bend in the bar where the bar was hitting the "pain in the butt".

This opened up gobs of space around the "pain in the butt. Here it is test fitted at about 2/3 of bump.



This gained me the clearance I needed on the sway bar end links. Now I've got some light trimming left to do on the crossmember, and I'll be able to get the suspension all the way through its travel.



While I waited on the sway bar to cool today I went to oreilly's and bought a set of universal bump stops.

Here they are mocked up where they're going to get mounted. I've got to cut out a simple bracket and weld it in for these to mount to. The stop will be a little further out, and about 3/4" higher. I think this position will just barely keep the suspension from bottoming out on the cross member when all the trimming is done.

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Old 01-03-2019, 09:42 PM   #34
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I got my sheet metal brake in a usable state today. I started the project by cutting all the angles to length. Then I cut out the angles for the hinges to get inset.



The center line of the hinge has to line up with the tips of the bender so the tips rotate around each other. I cut out WAY too much for the hinges. This made positioning the hinges and welding them in very difficult.

In case anyone was looking for a way to discourage themselves on a project, I highly recommend cutting out an angle way too big for a hinge. Positioning them SUCKED.

I made my upper cap out of a flipped piece of angle. I blew holes in it and welded in pieces of tube to give the bolt somewhere to seat.



I welded handles to the bender, and clamped it to my utility trailer. I don't have space to use it in my garage, so the trailer is a perfect spot to use it!



I made a test bend in about a 24" wide piece of 18 gauge. It bent it, but the upper cap/ die lifted up a fair bit. The widest bend I need to do for the gas tank is 39", so I'll probably weld braces into the cap to do that. I'll definitely have to beef up the top piece before I try to use it on anything close to full width (76").

It's definitely not perfect, but I'll make it work for me. I'm pretty sure in it's current state it could do the gas tank. It will just scream and complain the whole time.
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Old 01-03-2019, 09:53 PM   #35
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Default Re: 63 AMC Classic Pro Touring Build

Hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm.....juz sayin but anti-sway bars are springs. What are you doing to re-temper it?
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Old 01-04-2019, 08:36 AM   #36
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Default Re: 63 AMC Classic Pro Touring Build

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Hmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmmm.....juz sayin but anti-sway bars are springs. What are you doing to re-temper it?
I'm not going to do anything. There's a chance it wasn't heat treated. Some sway bars are, others are not. I'll keep an eye on it. If it breaks or deforms, I'll remove it and replace it with a custom sway bar. If it doesn't break, then we saved $160!
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Old 01-04-2019, 09:46 PM   #37
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Default Re: 63 AMC Classic Pro Touring Build

I made another test bend without modifying the bender. Its not fantastic but I decided to go ahead and use it as is for the gas tank. I'm going to beef it up later on for other bigger projects.



I cut out the main piece for the tank, and laid out all the bends on the sheet.



Then I made the bends one by one, checking them with a speed square.



It bent up much better than I expected, and I didn't have to tweak anything to line up! I didn't expect it to go that well!

I welded the seam on the tank, and bead rolled the bottom of the tank to add a little rigidity. It probably didn't need it. I don't get to use it very much, so I didn't want to pass up the opportunity. When you're holding a hammer, everything looks like a nail.



The bead rolling put some stress in the bottom of the tank, so it curved inward.



I cut out the end plates for the tank, and pulled the bottom back into shape. It all came back into shape really well.



I marked out the places the inserts will go, and cut them out with the angle grinder.





Then I cut out the baffles, and welded them into the tank through the cutout holes. This part sucked, a lot. I'm not sure how I would do it different next time yet. I would probably tack the baffles in with the mig welder, and do the rest of the welding with tig.



Now I've got to cut out both of the insert pieces. Then I'm going to weld it out. Last thing will be to make the access hole and weld it in.
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Old 01-06-2019, 04:58 PM   #38
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Default Re: 63 AMC Classic Pro Touring Build

I picked back up on the fuel tank today. The strip between the two cutouts was buckling from stress in the body. I cut a small strip out of it, and tacked it back together. Then I fitted the sump and pump recess.





Then I checked the fit up on everything and sat down to weld it out! It was really fun welding. I got the fit up tight enough on most of the outside corner joints to do a fusion weld. I just dipped filler when the keyhole opened up too much.

The only real problem I ran into was my vent hole was too small, and I blew out the last half inch of weld when I was sealing the tank up. You can see it in the middle of the pump cut out. I drilled the vent bigger, and welded it out.







Now I've got to make the pump access, and weld in the fittings. Then I'll have to paint it. I don't think I'm going to work on plumbing it until I've got my engine in the car.
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Old 01-16-2019, 07:58 PM   #39
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Default Re: 63 AMC Classic Pro Touring Build

Not a car post, but a tool for the car! I ordered a new welder, and yesterday I picked it up. Unlike the one I already have, it has a foot pedal, and it has high frequency for welding aluminum!





This should be handy for making an intake and oil pan for the new engine! I havent had access to a tig welder for aluminum in a few years, so I'm pretty excited.
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Old 02-09-2019, 10:36 AM   #40
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Default Re: 63 AMC Classic Pro Touring Build

use less heat on both your aluminum and steel. I have and might consider selling all the 5 sp swap stuff, Colorado transmission and custom flywheel.
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Old 02-10-2019, 08:36 AM   #41
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Default Re: 63 AMC Classic Pro Touring Build

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use less heat on both your aluminum and steel. I have and might consider selling all the 5 sp swap stuff, Colorado transmission and custom flywheel.
I'm definitely interested in the flywheel. I'll PM you.
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