496 break in procedure

[G-Code]

Originally Posted by [email protected]

That works for me. I always thought they would seal alot faster as well. I've read too much in the past and although I don't think it hurt waiting some time I'm glad.to hear it isn't needed. Any thoughts on what ring in the total seal line up?

For what it's worth ... I've been told that with the right honing procedure and proper ring installation that rings are "seated" when the engine comes off the engine stand. They certainly are from the factories as they don't break them in with Convent oil then change it.

[CFMCNC]

In just about every build we do the rings are happy at the end of the first pull on the DYNO!.WE use a lot of Total Seal AP rings and no gapless .Bill C.

[RCM Racing engines]

Originally Posted by G-Code

For what it's worth ... I've been told that with the right honing procedure and proper ring installation that rings are "seated" when the engine comes off the engine stand. They certainly are from the factories as they don't break them in with Convent oil then change it.

You were told right, to know for sure you really should have a blow by meter on the Dyno.
I got my honing down to a science, my first three pulls usually make within 2 HP of each other, when I see that and vacuum climbing I know they were seated of the engine stand, but I still ain't got big enough ballzz to run Synthetic oil right away, and for me it's just not worth it, I'll run break in oil atleast 10-12 pulls, then change it... been working for me so I ain't changing it... LOL

[RCM Racing engines]

I also got engines that'll pull 20+" of vacuum with regular ring/ non gapless.
I do see a little more with gapless though, but not much.

[wolf Wengler]

IMHO If you are going to break this engine in on the street (instead of on a dyno) I would make SURE you have the timing and everything set correctly so you can start it up and drive it. Letting an engine idle for 30 minutes does not help ring seal at all.. And you don't want to drive in traffic or steady speed freeway miles. You want to start it, take a quick look for leaks and drive it until it warms up.
Then run 1500 to 3000 and back of and let it decelerate back downto 1500 in gear, repeat two more times, then do the same, three times to 4000 and to 5000 letting it back down in gear each 'pass'. Try and do this in consecutive 'runs', some place not far from your garage. Get back, drain the oil, it will be sparkly, change the filter. Look at it if you want, I like to look at the secnd one.
From there I'd run non-synthetic, drive it hard, change the oil at 500 and then at 1500. I like WIX filters. If you want to run premium valve springs put them in after the 2nd or 3rd oil change ...when you could go to synthetic.

.....all this is useless without good machine work

[G-Code]

Originally Posted by RCM Racing engines

You were told right, to know for sure you really should have a blow by meter on the Dyno.
I got my honing down to a science, my first three pulls usually make within 2 HP of each other, when I see that and vacuum climbing I know they were seated of the engine stand, but I still ain't got big enough ballzz to run Synthetic oil right away, and for me it's just not worth it, I'll run break in oil atleast 10-12 pulls, then change it... been working for me so I ain't changing it... LOL

Lol ...
Neither do I, but after break in and 8 pulls I feel comfortable.

[[email protected]]

Great info thanks everyone!

[[email protected]]

I was planning to start engine on start up stand and run for 25-30 minutes at varying rpm between 2500-3000 like you would for a solid flat tappett break in. I was going to do this reguardless of whether I choose the solid flat tappett or hydraulic roller approach. Then I was going to install engine after I knew all aaas well and make some hard high hear type passes to help with ring seal. If it's just hydraulic roller it sounds like I can start it up and go ahead and make those passes to help with the ring seal and forgot the so called break in period. I wasn't planning on dyno. I am however planning on chassis Dyno. Am I off base with this thinking?

[69427]

If you do a solid flat tappet. I use a bottle of GM EOS with a good dinosaur break in oil like Brad Penn and a WIX 51061r filter. Another suggestion is to buy a filter mount without a buy pass, this way you will filter all the oil.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/c...SABEgIAIvD_BwE

https://www.superiorperformance.net/...ilfilters.html

Do the break in like you said varying the rpm for the first 15 minutes 1500-3500 rpm. Like others have said make every effort that it is ready to start and run first time.

[[email protected]]

Thanks everyone.

[WoundUp]

Originally Posted by 69427

If you do a solid flat tappet. I use a bottle of GM EOS with a good dinosaur break in oil like Brad Penn and a WIX 51061r filter. Another suggestion is to buy a filter mount without a buy pass, this way you will filter all the oil.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/c...SABEgIAIvD_BwE

https://www.superiorperformance.net/...ilfilters.html

Do the break in like you said varying the rpm for the first 15 minutes 1500-3500 rpm. Like others have said make every effort that it is ready to start and run first time.

You really think there's a need for EOS AND break-in oil?

Personally I'd use one or the other. Regular oil and EOS or break-in oil, but not both. More isn't always better.

[Horndog]

Originally Posted by [email protected]

Here is my current plan or thoughts anyways. Rather I run solid flat or hydraulic roller I plan to go thru the 30 minute break in process if for nothing else ring seal. I'm an Amsoil guy so I plan to use their break in oil. Following that break in procedure i plan to change oil and filter and go with one of their oils. What do you guys think of the break in procedure. If solid flat I will of course break in on outer springs only. Should I run a conventional oil for a few hundred miles and then switch to the synthetic for ring seat purposes?

Sounds good.


Pre-oil until you see oil coming out of all rocker arms.


Make sure carb is filled with motion lotion before you start it for the first time. You'd be surprised how many do not --- those running mechanical fuel pumps.

[TheNovaMan]

Originally Posted by 69427

If you do a solid flat tappet. I use a bottle of GM EOS with a good dinosaur break in oil like Brad Penn and a WIX 51061r filter. Another suggestion is to buy a filter mount without a buy pass, this way you will filter all the oil.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/c...SABEgIAIvD_BwE

https://www.superiorperformance.net/...ilfilters.html

Do the break in like you said varying the rpm for the first 15 minutes 1500-3500 rpm. Like others have said make every effort that it is ready to start and run first time.

Originally Posted by WoundUp

You really think there's a need for EOS AND break-in oil?

Personally I'd use one or the other. Regular oil and EOS or break-in oil, but not both. More isn't always better.

GM changed the EOS formula several years ago. I use Valvoline VR1 and Rislone's zinc supplement
https://rislone.com/product/3x-conce...reatment-4405/
I mix it so I get about 1800ppm zinc. I can't remember the ratio, but I can look it up if you like. From what I've read, 1800 is approximately the point of diminishing returns with zinc. I also like to plug my bypass and run a filter with a stiffer internal bypass, like Hastings LF349, Baldwin B279 or B1441, or Casite CF524.

[[email protected]]

Thanks for all the advice Nova you've been nothing but up front and honest with me with all my questions. I don't see alot of those filters around here. I will see what Amazon has to offer. Again thanks for the info....Chris