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Old 04-09-2010, 12:10 PM   #121
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Default Re: The Silicone Thread!!

I use Valco All-In-One silicone, Hendricks does use it on the NASCAR engines and so does John Force Racing and most every other major race team. And yes Valco is a family owned small company that will bend over backwards to try and help folks. They even do some school training at various colleges and places like UNO high performance school.

Valco shows people how & why silicones work and the best way to apply them. They started out with their Tube-Grip tool and expanded from there. They have 3 different color "ALL-IN-ONE" Silicones, Clear-Black-Aluminum, they are all meant to seal well and be removable without bending pan rails and such. All three silicones are rated at 600 degrees constant temperature. All are 02 sensor safe and all are meant to cover a very wide range of applications, hence the "ALL-IN-ONE" name.

Valco has other neat products too....Silicone Solvent 200....This stuff is like paint thinner is to paint for silicone, You can thin silicone out, brush a thin coat on a surface and it will still cure as normal. It will also take fully cured silicone and swell it up and soften it to make it very easy to rermove.

And the Guys that Mentioned the GM/Nissan OEM sealants? Valco now sells that silicone too, its light grey starts to skin in 3 minutes and cures very firm. Valco calls it the "EXTREME" silicone. But its not cheap. roughly twice the cost of the All-IN-ONE and its only rated to 417 degrees where as the others is 600. But there is several high end engine builders using the EXTREME now too. (And its most certainly not repackaged permatex grey) totally different product. Valco doesn't make it but they distribute it with good pricing.


I use almost exclusively the "ALUMINUM" All-in-one. It actually has 5% powdered aluminum content in the silicone that makes it firmer and gives it 100% heat transfer ability. I have used it around my turbo and on all headers.

And for the guy who just bought the Tube-Grip, The tool has been around about 20 years now, I actually have one of the very first tools that is welded together and not a stamping. The original tool looks nearly identical though. Used to be a two piece tool that had a rubber band holding to two halves together. They added the spring about 10 years ago so it wouldn't fall apart as easy. (The rubber bands would break after awhile) Basically its a pair of pliers to squeeze the tube and give you ten times the pressure than a hand can produce. When you first put a new tube into it, You have to push it in firmly then fold the crimp up with your thumb and the new tube will stay in place very well. Its amazing how much silicone really is inside of a 3oz. tube!!

The first engine builder to use the Tube-Grip saved roughly 45 minutes per engine putting on sealants, He no longer found silicone in his Oberg oil filters because he was using the right amount. And his hands quit hurting him...He thought he had arthritis...It was just pain from squeezing tubes.
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Old 04-09-2010, 12:35 PM   #122
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Default Re: The Silicone Thread!!

I forgot to mention that the All-In-One silicones are also available in a 11.17oz. cartridges too for the guys that swear by using them. Its the very same product in both the tubes and the cartridges. The cartridges use a "Euro" nozzle that screws on and has a snap on cap too.

Also the best way to keep silicone from hardening in the tube is to leave the nozzle on the tube, not the cap use the cap to puncture the tube and throw it away. Then screw on the nozzle and cut your desired hole size. when you are finished using it leave about a 1/2" string of silicone hanging out the end. let it cure, then even up to a month later you can squeeze your tube-grip tool and gently tug on the string from the nozzle and 9 times out of ten it will pop out and your right back to work.
Valco also sells 6packs of nozzles for the tubes for people who need a different cut or find themselves with a plugged nozzle, that should be the only time a nozzle is removed from the tube until the tube is used up.


Also alot of guys mentioned "drying" Silicone doesnt actually dry, It absorbs moisture from the humidity in Room Temperature Air...Hence RTV, (Room Temperature Vulcanizing) That is why silicone must remain applied and uncovered for a period of time before assembly can be completed. If it doesn't absorb enough moisture it will not cure fully or possibly not at all. Spraying water on it will not speed it up. But humidity will. So hot southern humid air will cure much faster than a dry western air conditioned shop.

And when removing silicone, silicone loves to stick to silicone so there is no need to clean 100% off a part to reassemble....Only remove what interferes with the fit or is hanging loose.

I prefer electrical contact cleaner aerosol before applying silicone, leaves ZERO residue. Laquer thinner actually does leave a residue guys.

And last no matter if your using Acetic Acid cure/ Oxime cure/ or Amine cure silicone they all three smell different but they all cure by absorbing moisture and they all end up the same product in the end. Some harder than others.

Most of the time Color means nothing to a silicone, But blue silicone tends to degrade over time because of the mineral used to color it, Thats the reason Valco no longer sells a blue, Also RED can be a misnomer...Used to designate "HIGHTEMP" but its a marketing ploy more than anything.

Metallic silicones like Valco's Aluminum and Permatex Copper actually contain metal and that gives them a advantage with heat. (This is a exception to color not meaning anything.)

Otherwise most silicones start off clear and have additives put in for color, some affect performance in one way or another, either by degrading faster or insulating more, or in the case with the metallic's give it more desirable performance around heat and add body to the silicone.
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Old 05-29-2010, 10:03 PM   #123
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Default Re: The Silicone Thread!!

What would be the best silicone to use to seal the lid on a sheetmetal intake and still be able to disassemble if needed?
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Old 06-01-2010, 09:45 AM   #124
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Default Re: The Silicone Thread!!

I wouldn't use a silicone for the chance of the fuel weakening it and causing a air leak at the worst possible time. Yes silicone would work, but for a undetermined period of time. It depends on what fuel is being used and how much contact it may have with the actual silicone. If the contact is near zero (Port Fuel Injection) and its just literally the lid of a intake silicone such as the Valco 710xx195 aluminum all-in-one will work terrific, look good, and come apart easily when the time comes to tear down.

If your running Carburetors there will be alot more fuel in the intake and the vapor will be too strong for silicone (IMO) Your not out of luck, In that instance I would use a product called "HYLOMAR" universal blue. The universal blue is totally fuel-proof and it never hardens. The Hylomar is the perfect choice for use when fuel contact is un-avoidable and airleaks could wreak havoc. The Hylomar is also available from Valco and its part number is 710xx285 for a 100gram squeeze tube, about the same size as a 3oz silicone.

Hope this helps!
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Old 06-02-2010, 01:16 AM   #125
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Default Re: The Silicone Thread!!

Thanks flynbrian, It is a Two carb tunnel ram.
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Old 06-02-2010, 01:42 AM   #126
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Default Re: The Silicone Thread!!

Is that the same product in the spray can for head gaskets, Valco has it listed, but does not say it is or it is not.
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Old 06-03-2010, 05:29 PM   #127
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Default Re: The Silicone Thread!!

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Originally Posted by flynbrian View Post
The original tool looks nearly identical though. Used to be a two piece tool that had a rubber band holding to two halves together. They added the spring about 10 years ago so it wouldn't fall apart as easy. (The rubber bands would break after awhile)
LOL I have one of these also.

Where can I get a replacement rubber band??

Valco is good stuff.

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Old 06-14-2010, 09:57 AM   #128
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Default Re: The Silicone Thread!!

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Is that the same product in the spray can for head gaskets, Valco has it listed, but does not say it is or it is not.
Yes, the product in the aerosol can is the very same product that is in the squeeze tubes, brush top cans, cartridges, and so on. It just has varying degree's of solvent in it and it is made that way for various application ease.

There is other "Hylomar" products as well. Silicones (Pricey) and non-solvent forms of universal blue too. It can get confusing. There is no good reason to ever use the non-solvent version of Hylomar unless you have a "EPA/Chemical Czar/Goon" that says no solvents allowed. Because frankly the solvent free stuff is not nearly as good.

SO If you want to try Hylomar stuff for Automotive use, these following part numbers will be the best options.
710XX285, 100gram squeeze tube.
710XX260, 250ml brush top can.
710XX294, 12oz. aerosol for head gaskets
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Old 06-14-2010, 10:05 AM   #129
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Default Re: The Silicone Thread!!

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LOL I have one of these also.

Where can I get a replacement rubber band??

Valco is good stuff.

Jim

Freezer section at the super market...LOL The blue rubber bands that hold the vegetables together work pretty darn good. Actually if you want a make your old rubber band tool work better, you can drill one small hole near the top edge of the front handle and another small hole next the the existing top hole on the back handle and put a small spring between the handles. They work great like this and never fall apart.
If you see a Valco booth at a trade show they always have those springs for free for those who need one to upgrade or have lost or broken their spring. You wouldn't believe how much better the tool feels to use with the spring in it vs. the rubber band.
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Old 06-14-2010, 07:11 PM   #130
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Default Re: The Silicone Thread!!

The best I have used is the motorcraft 7.3 diesel grey silicone.it comes in a 13oz tube for a caulk gun.
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Old 06-14-2010, 07:27 PM   #131
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Default Re: The Silicone Thread!!

yea what he said ^^^^ the black shit is the shit also from ford for the caulk guns. i put a pan on a bbc once and forgot the bolts all of them. i run it on the dyno and three passes down the track before i seen it didn't have any bolts when i went to change the oil. this is a true story i showed everyone at work and we just laughed.
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Old 06-14-2010, 07:32 PM   #132
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Default Re: The Silicone Thread!!

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The best I have used is the motorcraft 7.3 diesel grey silicone.it comes in a 13oz tube for a caulk gun.
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Old 06-14-2010, 10:02 PM   #133
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Default Re: The Silicone Thread!!

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Originally Posted by flynbrian View Post
Yes, the product in the aerosol can is the very same product that is in the squeeze tubes, brush top cans, cartridges, and so on. It just has varying degree's of solvent in it and it is made that way for various application ease.

There is other "Hylomar" products as well. Silicones (Pricey) and non-solvent forms of universal blue too. It can get confusing. There is no good reason to ever use the non-solvent version of Hylomar unless you have a "EPA/Chemical Czar/Goon" that says no solvents allowed. Because frankly the solvent free stuff is not nearly as good.

SO If you want to try Hylomar stuff for Automotive use, these following part numbers will be the best options.
710XX285, 100gram squeeze tube.
710XX260, 250ml brush top can.
710XX294, 12oz. aerosol for head gaskets
Thank you again, you have been a great help.
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Old 06-15-2010, 01:59 AM   #134
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Default Re: The Silicone Thread!!

Say, do any of you guys use only RTV between headers and cylinder head? I was thinking about trying some ultra copper.

Great thread by the way. I learned more about silicones reading this thread for 10min, than I have in my life up to now!
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Old 06-15-2010, 09:44 PM   #135
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Say, do any of you guys use only RTV between headers and cylinder head? I was thinking about trying some ultra copper.

Great thread by the way. I learned more about silicones reading this thread for 10min, than I have in my life up to now!

I do it all the time.just make sure it sets up before you start it.
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