: Landrover Series 1 resurrection


A sad fat dragon
09-16-2016, 03:03 PM
Well as the Torino is now dead for a while I've moved back to something I used to mess with before I bought the old muscle car.......

Say hello to my little friend! 1957 88" Series 1 Land Rover, I got it back in 2014 before the prices went stupid, took it green laning, killed the engine (forgot to turn the electric fan on and cooked a head), rebuilt that engine, lost interest, sold the engine, put a new engine in, lost interest and bought the Torino so sold that engine to fund some speed parts, bought another engine then sold it again when I decided it had to be a V8 not an Essex V6, lost interest again....and now the White Whale is dead and a bit more costly to repair than this I'm back to rebuilding the 88!

So here are a few old pics, a video and some new pics.

Spent today cutting off the old engine mounts as I'm going to solid mount the new engine.....prefer having a bit of vehicle rocking when you rev the motor and thats kinda hard with a 3.5L Rover (not my favourite engine by a longshot but it was only 2 packs of Haribo!)


Bit of off road action and I'm pretty sure this was the lane I cracked the head on


http://youtu.be/9_Ld4FXxWLo


Just a bit of revving and idle


http://youtu.be/ChlGZRzgvTY


And the pics!


So this was it when it was in use


http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/3755357dc3fa96ba96.jpg

http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/3755357dc3fb614aa7.jpg

http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/3755357dc3fb1dde5a.jpg


And that brings use nicely onto here where some magic is about to take place! My welding skills haven't really been taxed for a while and this month I've got this to repair, new engine mounts to make and a set of 12 Merlin engine exhaust stub pipes to fabricate, means I'll be getting a lot of TIG practice


http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/3755357dc3f83b6343.jpg

http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/3755357dc3f895be7a.jpg

http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/3755357dc3f9185783.jpg

http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/3755357dc3f9a8ae89.jpg

http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/3755357dc3f971aca4.jpg


And as of yesterday the front end was off, only took about 35 mins....this evening was then spent cutting off the old mounts and getting the frame ready to be welded.


http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/3755357dc3fadac59a.jpg

http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/3755357dc3fa61ed12.jpg

http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/3755357dc3fa2849da.jpg

http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/3755357dc3f9f7a4a3.jpg


Finally a baby V8! Its strange being able to carry the block round one handed when I cant even do that with one of the 429 heads without struggling! The valve pic is one of my 429 intake valves Vs. the whole chamber of the 3.5


http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/3755357dc40aab3c37.jpg

http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/3755357dc3f758828c.jpg

http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/3755357dc3f7fb3b20.jpg

http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/3755357dc3f7be56de.jpg

Firetruck1
09-23-2016, 08:01 PM
Nice of the wife to let you haul parts in the Volvo wagon! Ive always wanted one of these but state side their hens teeth and worth more then a pot of gold.

What year did they go to aluminum bodies? Cool project.

A sad fat dragon
09-24-2016, 08:34 AM
Oi thats my wagon :p I sold the other landrover and got a nice cheap runaround....although I think it may need a clutch and timing belt at some point in the next 15k

Always been ally bodies since 48, means they're nice and light. Got my engine mounts ready for forming and the mock up block ready to go in. All I need now is a dry day and a bit of motivation

A sad fat dragon
10-13-2016, 05:47 PM
Minimal motivation and a lack of progress until Monday....

Carried the mock up block round to where the car is languishing and bolted it up, real nice being able to hold an engine block with one arm and wrestle it into place whilst having a hand free to stick the bolts through the bellhousing and tighten it!
Couldn't do that with the 429!

So plan of action is to triangulate the chassis mounts back to the chassis then put a nice radius on them so they don't look so agricultural, take a set of standard engine mounts and modify them to bolt up to the new chassis tabs then pull the mock up block out and drop in the new running one thats arriving next Monday......simple right?

The modified mounts will have two positions one 4" further back than the other, this will allow me to do a 5 speed conversion in the future as the engine needs to come 4" forward in order to allow the transfer case and handbrake assembly to clear the central crossmember



http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/3755357ffffb7c9b67.jpg

http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/3755357ffff88f13a2.jpg

http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/3755357ffff7b16f89.jpg

A sad fat dragon
12-03-2016, 01:22 PM
Change of plan on this, bought a 5 speed box so now I'm making the whole lot fit.....alongside that, thanks to uni I haven't had as much time as I thought I would.

Managed to get a little welding in and remembered how much I hate welding bodywork, its not pretty but its solid now.






http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j448/Chaotic_Crayfish/Mobile%20Uploads/0D440493-0D32-4A1A-9B6F-ADFDE0CF1165_zpsiwddpbri.jpg (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/Chaotic_Crayfish/media/Mobile%20Uploads/0D440493-0D32-4A1A-9B6F-ADFDE0CF1165_zpsiwddpbri.jpg.html)

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http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j448/Chaotic_Crayfish/Mobile%20Uploads/2D0A64CA-14D0-446A-9350-D49DE655D98A_zpstwam6bm8.jpg (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/Chaotic_Crayfish/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2D0A64CA-14D0-446A-9350-D49DE655D98A_zpstwam6bm8.jpg.html)

A sad fat dragon
12-03-2016, 01:22 PM
http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j448/Chaotic_Crayfish/Mobile%20Uploads/D54173C5-6718-4769-8C85-218752BB1A39_zpsa5rhta8n.jpg (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/Chaotic_Crayfish/media/Mobile%20Uploads/D54173C5-6718-4769-8C85-218752BB1A39_zpsa5rhta8n.jpg.html)

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The new engines also been here for a while, this is what a 14,000 mile engine looks like internally.


http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j448/Chaotic_Crayfish/Mobile%20Uploads/EF7DDA00-1DC4-472A-93AC-BB2392BE4857_zpsjuhgdv0k.jpg (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/Chaotic_Crayfish/media/Mobile%20Uploads/EF7DDA00-1DC4-472A-93AC-BB2392BE4857_zpsjuhgdv0k.jpg.html)

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Now as a 5 speed LT77-LT230 set up comes in around 8" longer than an LT76 Series transmission I have to move the engine forward in order to make it all work.

To do this I've simply made up some ally brackets with slots cut out, not neat but for measurement purposes it'll be fine. Plan is to slide the engine all the way forward (I know I need to leave 6" for the crank pulleys and water pump)

From there I can mark up exactly where the engine can sit in its maximum forward position and work back from there. The box actually only needs about 4" more clearance so you can get the hand brake drum off easily.....so basically I'll shove the engine and box back as far as I can if theres any leftover space, but the further forward I can get away with putting it the better the rear prop shaft angle

http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j448/Chaotic_Crayfish/Mobile%20Uploads/5B513277-54D5-41A5-845A-3BD3B744230C_zpsx3qswbdg.jpg (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/Chaotic_Crayfish/media/Mobile%20Uploads/5B513277-54D5-41A5-845A-3BD3B744230C_zpsx3qswbdg.jpg.html)

http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j448/Chaotic_Crayfish/Mobile%20Uploads/8308AE80-C658-419B-9D00-57308BEF75F4_zpsiinzureg.jpg (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/Chaotic_Crayfish/media/Mobile%20Uploads/8308AE80-C658-419B-9D00-57308BEF75F4_zpsiinzureg.jpg.html)

A sad fat dragon
12-04-2016, 02:14 PM
Mmmmm oily, one 5 speed for the Series collected though


http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/375535844651349c7e.jpg

440roadrunner
12-04-2016, 02:37 PM
One thing is for damn sure. You are a glutton for punishment. I would not have a Rover up my ass. So, to each his own. I thought those things were aluminum? Shows what I know.

Closest thing to "Brit" is when my Gramps came home on my 14th birthday (he was a widower then) with a 54 Jag XK120 which he'd just bought for ELEVEN HUNDRED dollars. This was June, 1962. He kept it, drove it a bit, and mostly stored. Dad bought it from Gramps later on, and had it painted, but not restored. HE drove it a bit more. Managed to dent on front fender. Dad died at only 71, in 95. Mom sold the thing for 18K

This is Mom and the Jag not long after Dad bought it from Gramps, before it was painted. It was originally white, this is not the original paint

http://i68.tinypic.com/34pkpap.jpg

A sad fat dragon
12-04-2016, 05:42 PM
One thing is for damn sure. You are a glutton for punishment. I would not have a Rover up my ass. So, to each his own. I thought those things were aluminum? Shows what I know.

Closest thing to "Brit" is when my Gramps came home on my 14th birthday (he was a widower then) with a 54 Jag XK120 which he'd just bought for ELEVEN HUNDRED dollars. This was June, 1962. He kept it, drove it a bit, and mostly stored. Dad bought it from Gramps later on, and had it painted, but not restored. HE drove it a bit more. Managed to dent on front fender. Dad died at only 71, in 95. Mom sold the thing for 18K

This is Mom and the Jag not long after Dad bought it from Gramps, before it was painted. It was originally white, this is not the original paint





Oh yeah I'm a moron and I know it.....

You're kinda right, its an aluminium body with a steel bulkhead and chassis. Very early ones (like 48-53 I think) had an aluminium bulkhead and front panel (the bit I've had to repair) but as ally became less cost effective they changed


Thats a lovely jag though! Worth a fortune now, I'd happily drive one if I could. I like cars with a danger factor.....so for me, this wins on the fact it has no doors and no seatbelts

A sad fat dragon
12-05-2016, 12:19 PM
Seat box out and some measurements taken.

LT77 = 31 1/2" long, front drive flange 11" back from bellhousing lip

The space between engine and central crossmember is 32"

Pushing the engine forward 3 3/4" should allow enough space to take off the handbrake drum, if not a disc setup can be used

Wide angle UJs will solve the short ish rear prop issue

Amazingly my rough bastard engine mounts for mock up both lined up perfectly....s'aaaall good so far


http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/375535845a0f062b37.jpg

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A sad fat dragon
12-09-2016, 01:42 PM
Bought myself a new welder to help finish this stupid project off and it makes my toolbox look kinda small.....






http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/37553584af8c8179b6.jpg

http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/37553584af8c6a95be.jpg

A sad fat dragon
12-10-2016, 01:13 PM
About the most sunlight the series has seen in years.....removed the tarps and shoved it into a new position to work on. Much nicer now its not facing down a hill

Also turns out the new LT77 isn't in too bad a condition underneath the shitload of grime but its definitely not a one man lift like I thought it was....LT76 no problem as I lifted that out easily, but this must have another 50kg on the series box!

But progress is being made, I've now got the lovely job of tig welding the ally mounts tomorrow seeing as I've measured and cut the plates to brace them....definitely my least favourite metal to weld






http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/37553584c45452636d.jpg

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A sad fat dragon
12-11-2016, 11:49 AM
Welded up the chassis mounts and engine side mounts today, not the nicest job crouching between chassis rails.....but can you guess which side I fucked up the measurements on?


No pics of the ally bits because they really do look like shit! They're melted together but fuck they're ugly, they're like the Hilary Clinton of welds, fat, ugly and not fit for the light of day





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A sad fat dragon
12-12-2016, 12:18 PM
And with a bit of help from the death wheel the LT77 fits. There's even enough room to get the transfer case in and out

The chassis gearbox mounts nearly line up too!


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A sad fat dragon
01-13-2017, 05:19 PM
If I fits I sits! Might be a tight squeeze but it's in the series and ready for a top end rebuild now ��
Just wish I wasn't working on a fucking gravel hill.....

Got the fat crack in the bellhousing welded up by a friend too. Landrover aluminium quality is absolutely wank.



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71 Trans Am
01-14-2017, 01:13 AM
Man, this is quite the project!

I always liked the old Land Rovers. Cool truck!

A sad fat dragon
01-14-2017, 12:32 PM
Engines in and built back up. Just need to add plugs, leads, fuel and it should be good for a test




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Got the gearbox and transfercase in, just need to make up some mounts for it




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A sad fat dragon
01-16-2017, 01:21 PM
Modified a crank pulley earlier, can see the amount of space this will give back when installed.


The engine will only run an alternator, the water pump is being replaced with an electric one so I'll fabricate a blanking plate with -16 fittings on it



http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j448/Chaotic_Crayfish/Mobile%20Uploads/201A0EFC-1FC3-43AC-8C73-1C62290CD32B_zpsmukjou8n.jpg (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/Chaotic_Crayfish/media/Mobile%20Uploads/201A0EFC-1FC3-43AC-8C73-1C62290CD32B_zpsmukjou8n.jpg.html)

A sad fat dragon
01-17-2017, 01:40 PM
Minor injury today.......the nice A&E nurse says I'm not allowed to get it wet, get oil on it or lift anything heavy to make sure it stays sealed up.....no more progress this week then :((


Rather annoyed considering it happened due to excessive health and safety......had I not been made to use a fucking clamp to hold what I was cutting and done it the normal way like I would at home, this wouldn't have happened!



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A sad fat dragon
01-23-2017, 01:33 PM
How do you make sure a blanking plate fits? Butcher the piece it's replacing for a template.

So an AN-16 fitting welded to the front of it, plus hose is still shorter than the old pump. That frees up space for a deeper rad. Then on the crank pulley....losing the pump drive gains about 2.5" back and saves paying out the arse for a P6 set up, that would be around 280! EWP cost me 110 and by the time I've bought AN-16 hoses I'll be around the 160 mark, much more palatable





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A sad fat dragon
02-01-2017, 02:01 PM
Isn't it lovely when a bodge job works out perfectly....

No space for a conventional cotton reel mount so I'm doing it old school with rubber bushings clamped between the box and mounting plate. Amazingly the off cuts from making the passenger side were the perfect angle for making the drivers mount! Just need to weld it all up now

Doing the clutch over the weekend so might even be able to drive it soon


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A sad fat dragon
02-02-2017, 06:02 PM
Been having an issue with the transfer case locked solid.....Turns out I'm a total spacker....apparently my idea of nipped up was too tight. LT230 works perfectly, I'd just locked it up by tightening the bearing retainer plate and cover too much

Fuck knows how. I used a tiny little Allen key but apparently I'm an ape

A sad fat dragon
02-03-2017, 01:02 PM
Isn't it fun working on a gravel slope.....

Had to finish welding up the transfer case mount which was simple but after that shit went south. Pulled the engine to do the clutch, no issue getting it out of the engine bay but apparently no matter how many blocks of woods and bottle jacks I used I couldn't get the angle right to put the engine back onto the box!
This meant I had to split the transfer case and gearbox again, wouldn't be an issue if the transfer case wasn't the best part of 50kg and awkwardly shaped. Managed to wrestle the engine back onto its mounts then man handle the box into clutch...

On the plus side I am now a prop shaft, clutch pedal and a bit of wiring away from being able to attempt and drive it round the yard :cool:

After that it'll just be a case of making up a new seat box, floor, bolting the wings back on then sorting out the cooling and charging system got all the parts, they just need a bit of tweaking!

A sad fat dragon
02-06-2017, 12:47 PM
Front crossmember clearance issues solved with the EWP set up, can even get the handbrake drum on and off without moving the transfer case.

Also started my least favourite job...deciphering 59 year old electrical wiring....custom dash is going in with better made gauges.

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A sad fat dragon
02-09-2017, 03:59 PM
Well it's starting to look like a landrover again! Spent today drilling and tapping the buggered exhaust manifolds, refitting the wings and my new radiator arrived....the to do list is getting shorter


The rad is for a 70-73 Cuda with smallblock, should keep the terribly unreliable Rover cool. As will the no bonnet thing as my cars sit a little too high to close the bonnet due to being raised for the transmission swap. I'll build a new one at some point but first up is the custom seatbox, ally for that arrives tomorrow


http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j448/Chaotic_Crayfish/Mobile%20Uploads/91E70B91-4F0A-43F2-A28D-E36A79235AB1_zpsyonw1wp0.jpg (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/Chaotic_Crayfish/media/Mobile%20Uploads/91E70B91-4F0A-43F2-A28D-E36A79235AB1_zpsyonw1wp0.jpg.html)

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A sad fat dragon
02-10-2017, 03:22 PM
Stuck the radiator where I want it, just need to make some brackets to weld to the cage and then build an enclosure just incase something bad happens and it decides to spit fluid!
Coming along nicely now, mostly requiring left now that the body has been bolted back together

http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j448/Chaotic_Crayfish/Mobile%20Uploads/2B89B3CB-87E4-4C51-AE85-79618E413FA6_zpsz64zjiwr.jpg (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/Chaotic_Crayfish/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2B89B3CB-87E4-4C51-AE85-79618E413FA6_zpsz64zjiwr.jpg.html)

A sad fat dragon
03-05-2017, 02:14 PM
Set static timing, install flywheel and clutch, engine won't start....must be electrical, add extra earths and rebuild starter motor, nope. Use bigger battery, nope....but I just rebuilt it and turned it over to set timing before putting the clutch on.....Check to see if it turns, does it fuck.

Did I remember to take out the old dowel pegs for the 10.5" clutch when the bellhousing only takes a 9.5" clutch?

No, you fucking shit gibbon. ��



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A sad fat dragon
03-06-2017, 12:51 PM
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y1pYS6tRpdg&feature=youtu.be

A sad fat dragon
03-06-2017, 01:08 PM
Try a link that works this time.......


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5kzY4cjTlvA

Jebchevelle
03-06-2017, 01:37 PM
looks like you are making progress.

A sad fat dragon
03-06-2017, 01:51 PM
Slowly but surely! Big job thats left is the rad ducting and shield just incase it goes pop....don't want any of that shit on me

TomP
03-12-2017, 03:01 AM
It runs! You must have better weather than here. I have got bugger all done on my cars this winter. I have to drop a tank and a change a fuel pump on someone's crappy GM thing out in the freezing rain tomorrow.

I'm not sure I like that roll bar rad idea... 'smatter with between the headlights like normal?

GLHS60
03-12-2017, 03:58 AM
Nice little Buick V8!!!

A sad fat dragon
03-15-2017, 02:58 PM
It runs! You must have better weather than here. I have got bugger all done on my cars this winter. I have to drop a tank and a change a fuel pump on someone's crappy GM thing out in the freezing rain tomorrow.

I'm not sure I like that roll bar rad idea... 'smatter with between the headlights like normal?

Its been cold and wet most days but I'm making progress whenever its dry! Rather mild if damp winter.....haven't had any snow!

I would put it between the headlights like it originally was but I've shoves the engine forward to fit the 5 speed in the chassis, this means if I put a rad up front I wont have room for headlights!
I managed to plumb it in today using some rubber hose, plan is to drive it 8 miles to a mates shop and then use the pipe bender to make stainless ones front to back with a rubber coupler at either end. Minimal leak points that way and much tougher, rad will be totally shielded to protect occupants

A sad fat dragon
03-24-2017, 05:25 PM
Footwell butchered, clutch pedal temporarily fitted, custom length prop bolted in and downpipes fitted to the manifolds.....little bit of brake bleeding and re fabricating the footwell tomorrow and it'll be ready to go!



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A sad fat dragon
03-25-2017, 03:36 PM
Pretty productive day today! Bled the clutch up fully, sorted out the engine mounts and got a first test drive in...back of the house to the front, but the point is it drives!!


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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oZ2WYqIusqI&feature=youtu.be

A sad fat dragon
03-27-2017, 03:22 PM
Not much today....but I rebuilt the tow hitches, filled the boxes with oil and made a suitably agricultural looking bumper for it, just need to dress a few welds back and paint it black


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Lumbergh
03-30-2017, 10:46 AM
Cool build, but I gotta ask about the hole in the frame at the front, can this ride be manually cranked over?

A sad fat dragon
03-30-2017, 05:29 PM
The old engines could be turned over by hand, even the diesels! With the V8 I highly doubt it..... but these used to come with a 1.6, 2L or 2.25L engine and you'd get a hand crank that clipped into the bulkhead behind the seats just incase you needed it.

They're that easy to bump start that you'd never really need it though, more a get out of jail thing if you ever stalled whilst stuck off road or on a flat area where you couldn't push it easily

A sad fat dragon
03-31-2017, 04:24 PM
Battery box made up, seatbox riveted together, seat and handbrake fitted....might take it for a drive through town tomorrow! Once I've fitted the rev limiter of course....cant drive without flat shifting



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A sad fat dragon
04-01-2017, 02:33 PM
Rev limit set at 2k for a test run, this is going to be fun when it hits 4800 with twin side pipes! Flat shifting = fireballs!!

Got the passenger seat in, seat box mostly complete and the floor bolted in.....just need to sort the alternator out and finish boxing in one of the engine mounts




http://youtu.be/e353DXXYySo

TomP
04-02-2017, 02:08 AM
Little short stroke engine like that ought to be nine grand rev limit at least!

I am now befuddled by the clutch pedal and stuff.
I would just assume all Land Rovers are manuals and already had hydraulic clutches as British vehicles here in colonies are.

Next, it looks like a Wilwood clutch master cylinder. Aren't those the same as the very common Girlings available everywhere in UK?

For what it's worth, on my Consul Capri i'm ditching the hydraulic clutch and using a cable. I am using the larger square Wilwood for the brakes and it mounts just like the stock Girling.

A sad fat dragon
04-02-2017, 02:49 PM
Little short stroke engine like that ought to be nine grand rev limit at least!

I am now befuddled by the clutch pedal and stuff.
I would just assume all Land Rovers are manuals and already had hydraulic clutches as British vehicles here in colonies are.

Next, it looks like a Wilwood clutch master cylinder. Aren't those the same as the very common Girlings available everywhere in UK?

For what it's worth, on my Consul Capri i'm ditching the hydraulic clutch and using a cable. I am using the larger square Wilwood for the brakes and it mounts just like the stock Girling.


These engines are turds! They fall flat on their face at 5k, don't like going past 5500....at which point all power has dropped off and at 6k the pistons and rods let go!

Land Rovers are manual, you're right there....however these old ones are a geared shaft system rather than hydraulic, hence I dropped in an old Tilton pedal and a Wilwood master. It is a Girling basically, but Wilwood offer more size options.
The brake master is a proper Girling one

68roadrunner
04-02-2017, 03:02 PM
Cool build, but I gotta ask about the hole in the frame at the front, can this ride be manually cranked over?

Its not for that, its so a PowerTakeOff or PTO can be taken off the crank to drive whatever it needs to, usually a huge mechanical winch or such things.

TomP
04-02-2017, 03:08 PM
I've seen crank holes on a lot of 50's and 60's British sports cars... can't be for a winch on them. I suspect it could be dual purpose on a LandRover but a winch would not likely be crank driven, it would need it's own clutch. I've usually seen them off a PTO on the side of the transmission with about a 1" shaft running forward alongside the engine.

A sad fat dragon
04-02-2017, 05:46 PM
Its not for that, its so a PowerTakeOff or PTO can be taken off the crank to drive whatever it needs to, usually a huge mechanical winch or such things.

You can use it for both, if you have a winch fitted you obviously cant start it with the handle though

I've seen crank holes on a lot of 50's and 60's British sports cars... can't be for a winch on them. I suspect it could be dual purpose on a LandRover but a winch would not likely be crank driven, it would need it's own clutch. I've usually seen them off a PTO on the side of the transmission with about a 1" shaft running forward alongside the engine.

You can get crank driven winches, my friend has one on his series 3......cant remember how they work though.
This is a pic of one, usually you'd go for a PTO driven winch that uses the transfer case and then you can run it through the gears to change the speed


https://pangolin4x4.com/img/inventory/702lg.jpg

68roadrunner
04-02-2017, 07:02 PM
I've seen crank holes on a lot of 50's and 60's British sports cars... can't be for a winch on them. I suspect it could be dual purpose on a LandRover but a winch would not likely be crank driven, it would need it's own clutch. I've usually seen them off a PTO on the side of the transmission with about a 1" shaft running forward alongside the engine.


It does have its own clutch, hardly anyone used it for a starting handle, it was sometimes used for setting tappet clearances though, I've been working on a '72 SWB for 12 months now, glad the thing went out of the shop last week LOL, They have a hole through the rear xmember too so it can be driven from both ends.
I also have a '60 Consul sat here on the drive:cool:

A sad fat dragon
04-08-2017, 04:33 PM
Well the old rotten soft top has been removed now......as you can see it was fucked. Just disintegrated when I pulled it off the windscreen shark tooth rail



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A sad fat dragon
04-10-2017, 04:46 PM
Its not quite a 1950's dash but I now have working switches, can tell how fast I'm going and know the engine temp.....my to do list has become very short, just need to sort out the alternator, fit the trans tunnel and fan and thats it.

Once done I can drive it into town and get the exhaust made up and some stainless coolant pipes bent to replace the temporary rubber ones



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A sad fat dragon
04-11-2017, 05:24 PM
Big day today! Put the doors back on to hide the fact I'm missing the transmission tunnel, made an alternator tensioner bracket, remade the passenger side engine mount, drove it to the petrol station, filled her up and now I'm ready to take it into town and get the exhaust fitted, brakes bled by someone who knows how these stupid TLS fronts work and install the stainless pipes for the radiator.




http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/3755358ed487404c02.jpg

327Stocker
04-12-2017, 02:52 AM
Looking good man

A sad fat dragon
05-12-2018, 01:34 PM
So if you have a Series and want a bigger V8 thats better than a Rover what do you do?

Buy a Muncie SM465! Just need a 9" axle or an 8" on the back, remote mount the LT230 transfer case (they're tough as nails, been used behind plenty of Cummins Defender swaps) and voila! Bring on the madness



http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/375535af7256241342.jpg

http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/375535af725608c69b.jpg

A sad fat dragon
05-13-2018, 04:34 PM
Little bit of a haul today! Paid 550 for a 350 Chevy engine with 327 Camel Hump heads, it needs a full rebuild as theres two scored bores but well worth the price. Got a spare flywheel, T18 transmission and bellhousing with it too so for that money I'll buy them every day of the week

Just need to drop it at my machine shop once stripped and see if it needs to go +30 or +40 so I can order pistons


http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/375535af8a0968d7fd.jpg

http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/375535af8a09485403.jpg

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http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/375535af8a08ddd191.jpg

A sad fat dragon
05-18-2018, 07:11 PM
This might have had a rebuild in the past.......which would explain why it had a random shaped piston in one of the damaged bores!

I'll get some more pics tomorrow if I have time to drop it off at the machine shop in the morning. But a nice little bonus is its a 4 bolt main block, now I just need to decide if its worth buying a stroker kit for this or leaving it as is and running new pistons and rings on the stock parts instead. I'm thinking if I get my new job role then I'll go stroker /:) 383 would be a very nice little motor!



http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/375535aff5cffd3a4e.jpg

http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/375535aff5d06eab17.jpg

TomP
05-18-2018, 09:34 PM
Of course as a Ford guy i'd say that engine is a festering heap of poo, but it does seem to have some good pieces (for a Chevy) and that cam should be decent. If the crank needs grinding and rods resized and new bolts the stroker adds very little to the cost.

A sad fat dragon
05-19-2018, 02:21 AM
Oh yeah yeah I've been looking at kits already. Only $800 on summit did a 388 kit as this block will need +60 due to a score mark

A sad fat dragon
05-19-2018, 03:48 PM
This has had a retard rebuild at some point in its life.....all bearings spun, big ridges in the crank journals, one head has a burned out exhaust valve, one piston was a different shape than the others and apparently the guy couldn't size rings either.....look at those score lines!!

But it's come out as a 4 bolt main with camel hump heads so will make a good core engine for my stroker build

http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/375535b007ed76018d.jpg

http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/375535b007ed5230c1.jpg

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http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/375535b007ecc6db24.jpg

A sad fat dragon
05-19-2018, 03:52 PM
Seeing as I got the engine to the machine shop in the morning I turned my attention to the boxes this afternoon.....

The Muncie and T19 have both had pretty hard life's and pretty shitty owners. Especially the Muncie (turquoise one) look at the teeth on reverse �� and the shifter top! It was locked solid, brute force and a large pry bar freed it up but still a lot of effort....it will need a full overhaul before I use it.

The T19 rotated fine in neutral but locked solid when shifted into gear. It was owned by the same guy who rebuilt the engine so no surprises there.
Look at the reverse gear arm. It was out of position and locking reverse in at all times so when a forward gear was selected the box locked solid.
At some point the front bearing retainer has broken too and then been welded back up.....poorly, very very poorly
Teeth are still a little chipped but no where near as bad as the Muncie. Hadn't intended on using the T19 but it's going to get fresh oil and I'm going to send it.

If it breaks it breaks....the Muncie will go in once rebuilt.




http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/375535b007f2b4fcc4.jpg

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http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/375535b007f088983f.jpg

Geerbangr
05-23-2018, 03:13 PM
Big day today! Put the doors back on to hide the fact I'm missing the transmission tunnel, made an alternator tensioner bracket, remade the passenger side engine mount, drove it to the petrol station, filled her up and now I'm ready to take it into town and get the exhaust fitted, brakes bled by someone who knows how these stupid TLS fronts work and install the stainless pipes for the radiator.




http://imagehosting.rodsnsods.co.uk/3755358ed487404c02.jpg

Pretty cool old unit.

A sad fat dragon
05-23-2018, 04:27 PM
Pretty cool old unit.

Its basically a rip off of a Willys jeep :p but they're even easier to work on

A sad fat dragon
07-20-2018, 06:18 PM
More parts for the engine started to turn up this week, got the stroker kit and Manley race series valves for the old camel hump heads


http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j448/Chaotic_Crayfish/37418488_2105404159471396_1443823174323011584_n_zp s7i1k3xgb.jpg (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/Chaotic_Crayfish/media/37418488_2105404159471396_1443823174323011584_n_zp s7i1k3xgb.jpg.html)

http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j448/Chaotic_Crayfish/37638128_2105404202804725_9081323406653128704_n_zp shu2bqgij.jpg (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/Chaotic_Crayfish/media/37638128_2105404202804725_9081323406653128704_n_zp shu2bqgij.jpg.html)


Turns out the Scat kits come with decent bearings and pistons too


http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j448/Chaotic_Crayfish/37537796_2105404379471374_7302192380344532992_n_zp sg4giftv4.jpg (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/Chaotic_Crayfish/media/37537796_2105404379471374_7302192380344532992_n_zp sg4giftv4.jpg.html)

http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j448/Chaotic_Crayfish/37500598_2105404336138045_436130096135274496_n_zps rwkrwu9j.jpg (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/Chaotic_Crayfish/media/37500598_2105404336138045_436130096135274496_n_zps rwkrwu9j.jpg.html)

http://i1086.photobucket.com/albums/j448/Chaotic_Crayfish/37619944_2105404512804694_2262156345635504128_n_zp sfz2iotxl.jpg (http://s1086.photobucket.com/user/Chaotic_Crayfish/media/37619944_2105404512804694_2262156345635504128_n_zp sfz2iotxl.jpg.html)