: 68 vw baja putting it partly back together.


Jebchevelle
05-08-2016, 05:39 PM
I am putting my 68 vw baja back together somewhat I have it for sale, to fund other projects. That said this is not a for sale ad. just putting up what I am doing to it since it is not your everyday car build.

So far bought it as a rolling chassis and purchased a extra engine a 1600 cc dual port engine, put on a new clutch today around 2pm, picked up front seats from a 2002 for fusion to put in it. It came with two fiberglass off road seats. I am getting ready to put the engine back in in the next day or so.

Jebchevelle
05-08-2016, 05:41 PM
the only pics I have are on craigslist and since I am not advertising it here I don't want to link to them will see if I can get them on a online host somewhere.

Jebchevelle
05-08-2016, 07:30 PM
here are some pics as I got it.

http://s1044.photobucket.com/user/onebadelcamino/media/20160330_131132_zpskqmqzpoq.jpg.html?sort=3&o=3

http://s1044.photobucket.com/user/onebadelcamino/media/20160330_131151_zpsb1vekfpp.jpg.html?sort=3&o=2

http://s1044.photobucket.com/user/onebadelcamino/media/20160330_131206_zpsuwbhww22.jpg.html?sort=3&o=1

http://s1044.photobucket.com/user/onebadelcamino/media/20160507_095126_zps8z3dongp.jpg.html?sort=3&o=0
http://s1044.photobucket.com/user/onebadelcamino/media/20160330_131132_zpskqmqzpoq.jpg.html
http://s1044.photobucket.com/user/onebadelcamino/media/20160507_095126_zps8z3dongp.jpg.html?sort=3&o=0

http://s1044.photobucket.com/user/onebadelcamino/media/20160330_131206_zpsuwbhww22.jpg.html?sort=3&o=1

http://s1044.photobucket.com/user/onebadelcamino/media/20160330_131151_zpsb1vekfpp.jpg.html?sort=3&o=2

http://s1044.photobucket.com/user/onebadelcamino/media/20160330_131132_zpskqmqzpoq.jpg.html?sort=3&o=3
http://s1044.photobucket.com/user/onebadelcamino/media/20160330_131151_zpsb1vekfpp.jpg.html?sort=3&o=2

http://s1044.photobucket.com/user/onebadelcamino/media/20160330_131206_zpsuwbhww22.jpg.html?sort=3&o=1

http://s1044.photobucket.com/user/onebadelcamino/media/20160507_095126_zps8z3dongp.jpg.html?sort=3&o=0

Jebchevelle
05-09-2016, 01:51 AM
title does not seem what I wanted to say lol. I am working on it just not restoring it. this has a fiberglass kit on it called a bug eye kit. I am turning it into a running driving car, I am putting in the engine and new seats and putting on new tires and wheels.

Jebchevelle
02-15-2017, 06:09 PM
got the new seats cleaned up and ready to go into the bug in replace of the old fiberglass one's, new clutch is installed. I need to get some exhaust pieces painted and then this thing will be ready to go back together and running. I need to get the malibu rolling again so I can get this in the garage and finish it or find a way to move the malibu over so I can get both in the garage.

Jebchevelle
05-25-2017, 06:49 PM
gonna get back to this car soon guys.

Jebchevelle
05-26-2017, 10:54 AM
gathering parts for a turbo e-85 air cooled setup.

Larry84GT
05-26-2017, 01:40 PM
Looks like a cool project.... those things look like fun...

Jebchevelle
05-27-2017, 09:22 AM
they can be, right now gonna run it N/A, just to get it out and shaken down.

Jebchevelle
05-28-2017, 09:32 PM
got the engine back in with help today, also got half the exhaust installed and got the electric fuel pump mounted and half the fuel line installed. should have it running tuesday barring any problems. will be ready for the stick shift drags at bandimere next saturday.

Jebchevelle
05-29-2017, 09:12 PM
got the new rear rims and the tires 26-8.5x15 slicks and I have the fuel lines run now to rebuild the carb and fix any small problems that come up.

Jebchevelle
06-04-2017, 03:36 PM
bug is up and running did not make the track tow vehicle broke so will try for next friday.

Jebchevelle
06-09-2017, 08:52 PM
bug is running great. New clutch is a little softer then I prefer won't use that brand again even if it is said to be the best stock replacement, I used sachs supposed to be made in Germany lets just say not impressed will look at other options for the next clutch. I am gonna be putting a aftermarket fly wheel in her with 8 dowls when this clutch burns out.

dragvw2180
06-10-2017, 07:29 AM
Kennedy makes some decent clutch assys but for the time being using what you have is the smart move. With the 4 dowel setup if it bites too good it will shear the dowel pins and wreck the crank and flywheel. The butt of the crank is a machined surface so if there is any damage there it will cause runout on the flywheel. I would also recommend spending the money for a better gland nut to retain the flywheel to the crank. There are some really knowledgeable guys out near you , I think Eric Madson is out that way ,
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QqkPDWXY-LA A guy who has been racing for years who can help/save you a lot of money. There are aftermarket flywheels out there but in my opinion the stock vadiam steel is the best for your application. It is what I used on my 400 plus hp turbo engine until I went to a double disc Ron Lummis set up. The aftermarket cast flywheels explode under abuse . Hope you have fun .
Mike McCarthy

Jebchevelle
06-10-2017, 01:30 PM
I know a few guys back east that run bugs, I know one in ohio that is turbo low budget deal or was any way. I never really messed with these things for racing always kinda just a toy lol. The race I was trying to make had several bugs in it from what I was told by a friend that made it to race. I am new to the air cooled racing so, I have much to learn but I knew about the 8 dowl pin being better. I watched a video the other day on swapping out the gland nut and resetting crank play using aftermarket parts.

Jebchevelle
06-10-2017, 01:32 PM
I was looking at forged 4140, not cast. I would not run a cast fly wheel on anything except maybe my tow vehicle.

dragvw2180
06-10-2017, 04:05 PM
Great, sounds like you are heading the right direction. I have drilled stock crankshafts for 8 dowels with the engine assembled but it takes patience and a little effort . It is a lot of fun for very little money at that level of racing , we have had a blast doing it since 1985 .

Jebchevelle
06-10-2017, 06:16 PM
Great, sounds like you are heading the right direction. I have drilled stock crankshafts for 8 dowels with the engine assembled but it takes patience and a little effort . It is a lot of fun for very little money at that level of racing , we have had a blast doing it since 1985 .
Thanks for the advice.
I been researching as much as I can, nice thing is parts for these are pretty cheap compared to say my bbc in my malibu. I was looking at Porsche axles. The trans in it now is supposed to be out of a early 914 but I can not confirm that, it is IRS and looking on the bugget and a samba they make some good axles for these. They are not as strong as the swing arm style though from what I read and this trans has 2 case ribs? and one of the things I read is you want a van trans that is 4 rib? Not sure about that.

Jebchevelle
06-23-2017, 12:16 AM
This thing has what vw guys call a freeway flyer transmission. It is supposed to be a pretty good unit. still have not had the funds to get her to the track yet.

dragvw2180
06-23-2017, 07:10 AM
When they talk about the number of ribs on the transmission case they are actually talking about the transmission from a late model VW bus. It uses a larger outside diameter ring and pinion so it is stronger than a type 1 trans like you have. In order to put one in your car requires some special mounts / parts but is substantially stronger than a type 1 trans.. I have a 400 plus hp turbo car and I am still using a type 1 transmission but with the swingaxle setup rather than IRS like yours. Both are good and both can be made to handle a lot of HP. To me the clutch package is more important than the the transmission. The free way flier usually means that you have a higher gear ratio 4th gear . What I would recommend is a 3.78/2.05 stock main shaft trans with the 3.88 ring and pinion , all stock parts. I use stock 3.88 r/p in my turbo car so they are pretty tough .I will be happy to point you in the right direction on anything you want to do VW wise , maybe even save you some money .Mike McCarthy

Jebchevelle
06-24-2017, 02:43 AM
yes the high ratio 4th gear is supposed to be better for 1/4 mile then the other or so I was told as it lets you run it out the back better then the bus trans. Not sure if that is true but will get her to the track next friday and see how she does. I am not expecting much with a stock engine and trans.

dragvw2180
06-26-2017, 03:30 AM
Sounds like you are having fun at the very least. Are the tracks you go to all 1/4 mile ? I have never run a 4th gear that tall in a race car before , but I was also not running a stock engine either so my opinion will not help you . Something to think about is removing your fan belt in the staging lane and run the car down the track without it . Stop after your pass and put the belt back on, very east to do and will free up some noticeable HP .

Jebchevelle
06-26-2017, 04:39 AM
Sounds like you are having fun at the very least. Are the tracks you go to all 1/4 mile ? I have never run a 4th gear that tall in a race car before , but I was also not running a stock engine either so my opinion will not help you . Something to think about is removing your fan belt in the staging lane and run the car down the track without it . Stop after your pass and put the belt back on, very east to do and will free up some noticeable HP .
yes both PMP and bandimere are 1/4 mile. I did not know about the fan belt deal, I will try that. thanks.

Jebchevelle
07-07-2017, 10:19 PM
so I have the turbo for the turbo build and have the holley 2bbl carb got my eye on the intake manifold it is a draw through. so starting to get ready to turbo her. I got a fuel issue it is getting a lot of fuel in the gas. I believe it may need a regulator the pump is a vw specific low pressure pump but it seems to be flooding the engine. any way that is all so far.

dragvw2180
07-08-2017, 08:51 AM
I would definitely run a regulator . The Chassis Shop makes a nice manifold , there is no dip below the carb for the fuel to puddle in like some cheaper manifolds.
http://s91.photobucket.com/user/dragvw2180/library/
this is the manifold I use on 4 barrels carbs made by the Chassis Shop .

dragvw2180
07-08-2017, 08:57 AM
Sorry about the Photobucket BS , it is not working correctly .

Jebchevelle
07-10-2017, 12:24 PM
yeah have the same issue with photobucket. here is the intake I was looking at.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/DRAW-THROUGH-TURBO-TURBOCHARGER-CARBURETOR-2-BARREL-INTAKE-ADAPTER-/292177697227?hash=item440725d9cb:g:v00AAOSw-3FZHz6S&vxp=mtr

dragvw2180
07-11-2017, 05:37 AM
That looks like a 4" inlet , what size inlet do you have on your turbo ? It is hard to tell if the inside of the intake drops below the round tube or if it is actually flush with the bottom in the picture. If I come across an intake cheap I will let you know. Mike

Jebchevelle
07-12-2017, 06:06 PM
That looks like a 4" inlet , what size inlet do you have on your turbo ? It is hard to tell if the inside of the intake drops below the round tube or if it is actually flush with the bottom in the picture. If I come across an intake cheap I will let you know. Mike
it is 3" where it goes to the turbo and my turbo has a 3" opening. I am putting dual carbs on it for now, while I gather turbo parts.

dragvw2180
07-12-2017, 07:20 PM
Which dual carb kit are you using ?

1fastacvw
07-12-2017, 10:33 PM
kind of skimmed over your build. in type 1 box with stock gears youll be shifting into fourth on a 26" tire at the strip on 1/4 mile track. type 2 is far stronger by a mile because the pinion and ring gear mesh with two teeth vs one as in type 1 box. what kills a box in an instant is at the hit. so as you put power to it look to get some clutch slippage and dont get aggressive with the release as its just bracket racing. type 1 box will last a while if your easy on it and run a cms setup.

as far as axles go, i think lummus has some decent aftermarket axles if your going swing, if IRS then there is a set of Folts axles, tubes, etc for a grand right now for sale on FB vw page.. these typ. cost about 2200 new as a set.

you might look or call AJ at low bugget for info .. he is good guy and can help you out. CB has some great stuff too.

for clutch's there are a few options, if you get a Kennedy, be prepared to get it surfaced after you run it a little bit. for whatever reason they cup immediately. if your going to push some power you can look at J&G. if your pretty much stock motor with little upgrade, maybe look at F&s plate and cushlok disk, four puck.. all depends on what your doing and how much money you want to spend.

id pass on that intake and look on samba, contact shag or low bugget for 2 barrel intake.

its easy to go blow lot of money unnecessarily. personally, if you go turbo just look to run high 10 or low 11 and enjoy it. shoot for 10.60 index or 11.60 index type of deal. once you start to want to go sub 10's then it will add up, maintenance, down time, etc and the fun goes away and next thin you know your building a v8 haha.

there is a great group of races in the mountain area there and have a five or six race event and run in SLC, denver, grand junction, NM (somewhere). those guys can help you out too.

1fastacvw
07-12-2017, 10:34 PM
youll pick up 1/2 sec just by getting 3rd and 4th gear and slicks usually will help you out almost another 1/2 sec.

Jebchevelle
07-12-2017, 10:40 PM
Which dual carb kit are you using ?
the cheap empi epc 34 ict's it is all I can afford right now. I really was gonna buy a new holley 2bbl or use the one off my boat lol but decided not to take the one off the boat and a new holley xp I want is 500+ new so got this kit, up here where the air is thin these are said to work pretty good as you want velocity vs volume. I will find out. I thought about buying another pic34 for now but they are so close in price went the dual route, guys I talked to local said duals weather single or double work better up here. With this being a stock 1600cc should not need a lot of carb most where saying to try and find some 36mm deltoro's or 40mm HPMX or 40mm webers. could not find any I could afford. I will have to jets these down for the altitude any way.

Jebchevelle
07-12-2017, 10:54 PM
youll pick up 1/2 sec just by getting 3rd and 4th gear and slicks usually will help you out almost another 1/2 sec.
you posted while I was typing lol. I am shooting for low13's high 12's. The turbo I have is good for about 10lbs boost on the jeep liberty crd it comes off so figured maybe 6-10lbs max on the bug engine. I was looking at low buggets intake and their ignition system.
My trans is out of a newer bug but I have no idea what year or anythingelse about it other then what I was told they call it. lol It is the single sided case and is IRS.
Guys at the track last weekend told me should be good N/A but said I should up grade to a LSD once I go turbo for the 4 pinion gears over the 2 I have now. Also told me I need to upgrade to porsche 536 aftermarket axles. They said this case is pretty good because it is stronger having only one side cover. They advised me to get a kennedy stage 1 clutch once I get a new 8 dowel pin fly wheel and get the crank drilled for the extra dowels. I am pretty sure right now it is a 17 second car maybe? I will find out once I get working carbs lol.

1fastacvw
07-14-2017, 10:12 PM
you posted while I was typing lol. I am shooting for low13's high 12's. The turbo I have is good for about 10lbs boost on the jeep liberty crd it comes off so figured maybe 6-10lbs max on the bug engine. I was looking at low buggets intake and their ignition system.
My trans is out of a newer bug but I have no idea what year or anythingelse about it other then what I was told they call it. lol It is the single sided case and is IRS.
Guys at the track last weekend told me should be good N/A but said I should up grade to a LSD once I go turbo for the 4 pinion gears over the 2 I have now. Also told me I need to upgrade to porsche 536 aftermarket axles. They said this case is pretty good because it is stronger having only one side cover. They advised me to get a kennedy stage 1 clutch once I get a new 8 dowel pin fly wheel and get the crank drilled for the extra dowels. I am pretty sure right now it is a 17 second car maybe? I will find out once I get working carbs lol.

well... single side cover is usually 3.88 ring and pinion which is the one everyone wants becuase it has the biggest teeth of the three for type 1. just get a super dif, you dont need to spend the money on LSD. if your on a budget i would plan on a super beetle main shaft, get super dif, and then if anything have third and fourth welded. after market mainshafts are 7 to 12 hundered (light duty vs hd) and gears are generally about 250 a set. axles, you can use sway a way's. if your gonna stay IRS then just get HD stub axles for trans as if you hit it hard and dont have clutch mgmt youll prob snap one assuming you upgrade the internals as suggested. personally id put a swing box in it. the super dif is less money, axles are cheaper etc. you can change teh spring plates to swing and just get tubes and your good. have to use a dif trans case which is no big deal. just find a core and use your ring and pinion.


concerning the motor.. here is where you need to think ahead a bit. if your gonna 8 dowel the crank imo your gonna tear the motor apart to do it correctly. might as well just get a counterweighted crank thats already 8 dowel and throw it in. there are a gazillion options you go with.. but since your going to turbo it. just get stock 69mm counterweighted crank, throw that in and lightened fw. rodney from rad designs has stock 1600 blow through setup and is almost into the 11's i think with stock bus trans. actually, you might call him to pick his brain a bit. seee what he did to stab the bus trans in his bug.

id invest in solid shaft's rockers. they are cheap and good insurance. there is a lot more but those are two things i would do min.

might look at some kadron's they are great carbs and 40mm i think. AJ i think sells them too.

once you tear into the trans or motor and want to hop it up a bit, cost adds up quick. one thing you might do for now is just get the turbo setup on and running.. just play with the car till something breaks but have couple grand on hand to fix it the right way once it does. if the fly wheel shears off just get new crank.. like 250 bucks. but youll spend a grand minimum putting the motor back together even if stock.

ignition, check out CB performance black box (i think). or just get a msd 6al and a good coil for now with an 009 dizzy.

Jebchevelle
07-14-2017, 11:31 PM
the cheap empi epc 34 ict's it is all I can afford right now. I really was gonna buy a new holley 2bbl or use the one off my boat lol but decided not to take the one off the boat and a new holley xp I want is 500+ new so got this kit, up here where the air is thin these are said to work pretty good as you want velocity vs volume. I will find out. I thought about buying another pic34 for now but they are so close in price went the dual route, guys I talked to local said duals weather single or double work better up here. With this being a stock 1600cc should not need a lot of carb most where saying to try and find some 36mm deltoro's or 40mm HPMX or 40mm webers. could not find any I could afford. I will have to jets these down for the altitude any way.
I found out they thought I was getting different carbs they now say these are a waste of money lol got a local pace to rebuild my solex pict 34-3. I am sending the empi epc 34 kit back to the seller, I have my reasons like empi basically telling me to get lost when I asked questions about the carbs.

well... single side cover is usually 3.88 ring and pinion which is the one everyone wants becuase it has the biggest teeth of the three for type 1. just get a super dif, you dont need to spend the money on LSD. if your on a budget i would plan on a super beetle main shaft, get super dif, and then if anything have third and fourth welded. after market mainshafts are 7 to 12 hundered (light duty vs hd) and gears are generally about 250 a set. axles, you can use sway a way's. if your gonna stay IRS then just get HD stub axles for trans as if you hit it hard and dont have clutch mgmt youll prob snap one assuming you upgrade the internals as suggested. personally id put a swing box in it. the super dif is less money, axles are cheaper etc. you can change teh spring plates to swing and just get tubes and your good. have to use a dif trans case which is no big deal. just find a core and use your ring and pinion.


concerning the motor.. here is where you need to think ahead a bit. if your gonna 8 dowel the crank imo your gonna tear the motor apart to do it correctly. might as well just get a counterweighted crank thats already 8 dowel and throw it in. there are a gazillion options you go with.. but since your going to turbo it. just get stock 69mm counterweighted crank, throw that in and lightened fw. rodney from rad designs has stock 1600 blow through setup and is almost into the 11's i think with stock bus trans. actually, you might call him to pick his brain a bit. seee what he did to stab the bus trans in his bug.

id invest in solid shaft's rockers. they are cheap and good insurance. there is a lot more but those are two things i would do min.

might look at some kadron's they are great carbs and 40mm i think. AJ i think sells them too.

once you tear into the trans or motor and want to hop it up a bit, cost adds up quick. one thing you might do for now is just get the turbo setup on and running.. just play with the car till something breaks but have couple grand on hand to fix it the right way once it does. if the fly wheel shears off just get new crank.. like 250 bucks. but youll spend a grand minimum putting the motor back together even if stock.

ignition, check out CB performance black box (i think). or just get a msd 6al and a good coil for now with an 009 dizzy.

Been looking at the super diff thing is right now I have no money to tear things apart. I herd about the stubs but did not know witch one's to swap to , Have no idea what sway a ways are. where do you get the stub axles you speak of? I been searching around only found the super diff on a few sites aircooledvw,net is one place have not found many trans upgrade parts.
As far as 8 dowel goes I am getting the jig and drilling it in the engine and getting a forged 4140 light weight fly wheel as soon as funds permit, prolly in the next few months if I can swing it. I only have so much a month I can spend.
Right now I don't have all the parts to turbo it all I have is the turbo its self. This is just a toy Not looking to spend a lot on it gonna stretch it out over time.

Jebchevelle
07-14-2017, 11:38 PM
well... single side cover is usually 3.88 ring and pinion which is the one everyone wants becuase it has the biggest teeth of the three for type 1. just get a super dif, you dont need to spend the money on LSD. if your on a budget i would plan on a super beetle main shaft, get super dif, and then if anything have third and fourth welded. after market mainshafts are 7 to 12 hundered (light duty vs hd) and gears are generally about 250 a set. axles, you can use sway a way's. if your gonna stay IRS then just get HD stub axles for trans as if you hit it hard and dont have clutch mgmt youll prob snap one assuming you upgrade the internals as suggested. personally id put a swing box in it. the super dif is less money, axles are cheaper etc. you can change teh spring plates to swing and just get tubes and your good. have to use a dif trans case which is no big deal. just find a core and use your ring and pinion.


concerning the motor.. here is where you need to think ahead a bit. if your gonna 8 dowel the crank imo your gonna tear the motor apart to do it correctly. might as well just get a counterweighted crank thats already 8 dowel and throw it in. there are a gazillion options you go with.. but since your going to turbo it. just get stock 69mm counterweighted crank, throw that in and lightened fw. rodney from rad designs has stock 1600 blow through setup and is almost into the 11's i think with stock bus trans. actually, you might call him to pick his brain a bit. seee what he did to stab the bus trans in his bug.

id invest in solid shaft's rockers. they are cheap and good insurance. there is a lot more but those are two things i would do min.


If I do anything with the engine I am gonna build a new bigger engine. Already looking at 82mm crank, aftermarket aluminum case with aftermarket rods, mahle pistons, and jugs.gonna port my stock dual port heads for the new engine till I can afford CB performance heads. cam will be a turbo grind if and when I build a new engine. I am gonna run this one stock it does have solid rocker shafts already nothing else is done to it.
I would just drill it for now engine runs great and I am not tearing it apart until it breaks.

1fastacvw
07-15-2017, 11:42 AM
I found out they thought I was getting different carbs they now say these are a waste of money lol got a local pace to rebuild my solex pict 34-3. I am sending the empi epc 34 kit back to the seller, I have my reasons like empi basically telling me to get lost when I asked questions about the carbs.



Been looking at the super diff thing is right now I have no money to tear things apart. I herd about the stubs but did not know witch one's to swap to , Have no idea what sway a ways are. where do you get the stub axles you speak of? I been searching around only found the super diff on a few sites aircooledvw,net is one place have not found many trans upgrade parts.
As far as 8 dowel goes I am getting the jig and drilling it in the engine and getting a forged 4140 light weight fly wheel as soon as funds permit, prolly in the next few months if I can swing it. I only have so much a month I can spend.
Right now I don't have all the parts to turbo it all I have is the turbo its self. This is just a toy Not looking to spend a lot on it gonna stretch it out over time.


call folts transmissions, rancho transmissions, here is link to stub axles. https://www.google.com/search?q=mckenzies+vw&spell=1&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjIxdmpzovVAhXJz4MKHR8YBXUQvwUIJSgA#q=ir s+transmission+vw+stub+axles

sway a way manufactures axles, torsion bars, etc. the least expensive way to do this is convert to swing axle. requires dif case, dual side cover.. but its a stock trans so just get another stock trans and stab it in. buy some HD swing axles, and your good to go (for a while).

considering what your doing, just leave it alone. you wont make enough power to hurt anything for a while. if you did anything get something to slip the clutch a little at the launch so that initial hit doesnt break anything. you can make your own hydraulic clutch mgmt system for about 100 bucks. just get biondo line lock and a parker flow control valve.

Jebchevelle
07-15-2017, 01:06 PM
call folts transmissions, rancho transmissions, here is link to stub axles. https://www.google.com/search?q=mckenzies+vw&spell=1&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjIxdmpzovVAhXJz4MKHR8YBXUQvwUIJSgA#q=ir s+transmission+vw+stub+axles

sway a way manufactures axles, torsion bars, etc. the least expensive way to do this is convert to swing axle. requires dif case, dual side cover.. but its a stock trans so just get another stock trans and stab it in. buy some HD swing axles, and your good to go (for a while).

considering what your doing, just leave it alone. you wont make enough power to hurt anything for a while. if you did anything get something to slip the clutch a little at the launch so that initial hit doesnt break anything. you can make your own hydraulic clutch mgmt system for about 100 bucks. just get biondo line lock and a parker flow control valve.

This clutch is so soft I really wish I had got a kennedy. The clutch in it now is brand new but just does not grab like I would have thought a new clutch would should have just got a pressure plate and reused the old clutch it is sitting on the shelf and is still good but the pressure pate was older style and would not fit this transmissions throw out bearing.

Jebchevelle
07-15-2017, 09:47 PM
She runs!!!! I rebuilt both carbs but the German solex would not idle no matter what I did, so I rebuilt the spanish carb I bought local it is newer and seems it need a good cleaning and a new float. It runs does not smoke idles at 900-1000rpm and revs nice. gonna put those EPC34's right back on the UPS truck lol any way very happy it is running properly finally. Just hit the key and she fires right up.

dragvw2180
07-16-2017, 03:56 PM
Look at this , https://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=2075476 a decent price and a big improvement over what you have.

Jebchevelle
07-16-2017, 06:08 PM
Look at this , https://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=2075476 a decent price and a big improvement over what you have.
Thanks for the link but I don't have that kinda money right now. I do a lot of trading and such most times I am cash limited.

dragvw2180
07-17-2017, 05:35 AM
I understand that ! Cash is hard to come by .

Jebchevelle
07-17-2017, 07:38 PM
know a guy looking but he wants a fully assembled and done motor.

dragvw2180
07-20-2017, 08:41 AM
I will have a 2332 turbo engine that will be dynoed and tuned by Dave Kawell in a few weeks for sale. Guaranteed 400 HP that you can drive on the street , a clone of my engine in my car that I drive . Mike McCarthy

Jebchevelle
07-23-2017, 01:40 AM
I will have a 2332 turbo engine that will be dynoed and tuned by Dave Kawell in a few weeks for sale. Guaranteed 400 HP that you can drive on the street , a clone of my engine in my car that I drive . Mike McCarthy
I he was looking for a stock 1600 dual port nothing too fancy he has a light weight sand rail and does not want to put too much into it.

Jebchevelle
12-10-2017, 02:01 PM
well update never got her to the track tow vehicle broke down anemd then a string of things made it so I just could not get it there, the carb decided to take a dump again not sure why but it just won't stay working have rebuilt it twice but still it acts like it is not getting enough fuel at idle you have to keep pumping the carb to get it to run. then it just dies randomly. I will try and get a new carb this winter, engine itself runs good from what I can tell I am no expert on air cooled vw's but when it was running last summer it seemed to pur like a kitten.

Jebchevelle
12-17-2017, 01:09 AM
well gathering parts for my home built turbo for this car. kinda glad I went stock clutch now so it will slip a little and make it easier on the transmission. lol but any way will update with pics of parts when I get them.

Jebchevelle
08-30-2018, 03:42 PM
Considering going with A weber 32/36 carb for the blow thru but not sure on that yet, right now just want a reliable carb the one on it froze up this winter and now it won't idle again the pict 34-3 is a finicky carb lol any way not had time or money to do much with it. but looking at picking up the 32/36 just for now, I know the pinto guys from over the pond had decent luck making these carbs preform with turbo's on the ford stuff so been doing some reading on that. Any way that is all for now.

Jebchevelle
09-03-2018, 03:00 PM
So I picked up a weber 32/36 and intake. looks in decent nick, was running on a vw bus at one point looks pretty black inside so was running real rich. it has one confirmed 140 jet on the secondary side, cannot read the primary or the air bleeds also the idle jest are un readable. So I ordered a kit with everything in it based off of John @ aircooled.net's advice and write up on that site, also from emails with him. gonna start with a 127/175 main jets, 42/52 Idle jets, 180/200 Air bleeds. I wish I had the money for a wide band lol. any way wish me luck guys hoping to have better luck with this seup then the old pict 34 carbs I have rebuilt several times. This carb came with a rebuild/repair kit from the local VW place in Denver it is empi brand but gonna use it for the parts and gaskets needed. This kit has the gaskets/rubber parts for use with modern ethanol fuels.

Jebchevelle
09-06-2018, 11:31 PM
Tore apart the weber 32/36 and found it to have been running super rich. It has a really large needle and seat never seen a weber 32/36 or holley 5200 series carb with that big of one. Looked it up, seems it is made for running this style carb on e-85 or for turbo use for more fuel flow to the bowls. Some of the jets are unmarked and seem to have been drilled out. So I am glad now that I decided to order a complete jet kit assortment and start from scratch. Gonna put some o-rings on the throttle shafts to seal them before putting boost to it.

Jebchevelle
09-08-2018, 09:45 PM
So if any onr cares about this project and it's progress, I soaked the carb starting on Thursday in white distilled vinegar that got a good amount out of it but did not completely clean it so it got a can of cabr cleaner and some mineral spirits run through it still was not clean enough so I soaked the smaller parts and chock linkage in 70% alcohol over night, and soaked the carb body and top in PB blaster over night friday. Went out today and it was a ton cleaner looks like they was running e-85 or another alcohol type fuel from the residue in the carb only type of fuel I seen that leaves that kinda residue. Any way i bottle of 70% alcohol and 2 cans of break clean later it looks like brand new all ports are completely cleaned out and she is all reassembled and jetted for the 1600 air cooled in the jets John from air cooled said to start with. had some linkage binding got rid of that and am building a new linkage that will use the stock cable without cutting the end off and should make the angle from the carb to fan shroud less of a bind.
Any wy waiting on a full engine gasket set from erling to reseal the engine since it needs it any way and I have to pull the generator to swap intakes anyway. Wish me luck might just get this car to the track if not this month then next just to get a pre boost time slip to base line it on. Still got some weight removal to do but will get it weighed once it is turn key again.

Jebchevelle
09-16-2018, 07:38 PM
Had a bad valve cover leak on passenger side has a repop cheap valve cover gonna get some aluminum bolt on when have the extra scratch. trade for 5.0 is off. guy decided he needed cash more then another toy. no big deal gonna finish getting this car race ready have to install a nutrual safty switch on the clutch pedal. and put in some longer wheel studs. any way it is moving along and running great. now with no oil leaks.

Jebchevelle
05-14-2019, 07:30 PM
Well all the wasted time on used carbs was a bust. the 32/36 weber I got had a bad shaft and was leaking air. So I bought a brand new carb from Pierce Manifold it is a 32/36 as well but new, engine sounds good and is running great now. This engine has a cam in it for sure now, it refuses to idle below 950rpm even with new everything. Gonna recheck timing, re gap plugs again and just go over it some more before I run it friday at test and tune. wish me luck guys. might finally get it to the track. lol

Jebchevelle
05-25-2019, 04:15 AM
bug is running great with the new carb but still slow lol. made 42whp. I think with my limited budget it is time for a subaru swap. looking at a 96 2.5l in a outback. gonna double the HP in one fell swoop.

Jebchevelle
06-01-2019, 03:27 AM
Deal fell through on the subaru swap no big deal.


I did find my big fuel problem, and of course it was my fault! I had put a cheap plastic fuel filter after pump and before the carb it was restricting flow to the carb it idled great but left me on the side of the road twice. Removed it and put a pressure gauge in place of it to see what was going on and she is running top shelf. Put a new metal in line filter right after the pump it has a pre pump filter that came with the pump. Any way 2 fuel filters later and it is flowing fuel, but that little pump and stock 5/16" fuel line will get replaced with (2) 3/8" lines one for feed and one for return with the new regulator and pump she is getting. First thing though getting new wheel cylinders and new rear wheel bearings as the right is grinding and so just gonna change both inner and outer on both rear with seals.

dragvw2180
06-01-2019, 07:56 AM
I had not seen your posts , I could have helped . The stock carb has an idle jet located near the choke assemble, a hex brass screw that plugs up VERY easily. I understand you are on a tight budget but keep your eyes on this web site and you may be able to find a set of rear disc brakes ,
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/ . I have used them on my race car and buggies also . I think I have a 2 barrel Dellorto setup for blow thru turbo carbs with manifold that might work better than the progressive carb. Intake manifolds freezing in the winter is pretty common, next winter try ducting some hoses from under the pushrod tubes to your air cleaner . It will preheat the air and help with the freezing . Dual carbs with their short manifolds pretty much end it . Many guys run a low pressure electric fuel pump like a Facet with good results , https://www.ebay.com/itm/Facet-FEP42SV-Cube-Electric-Fuel-Pump-1-5-4-Psi-Includes-Clamps-Fittings-Filter/113687322653?epid=227100856&hash=item1a784ae01d:g:VGIAAOSwCyVcjDVi .Make sure you have a good vent on your fuel tank . Hope some of this might help , Mike

Jebchevelle
06-02-2019, 01:16 AM
I had not seen your posts , I could have helped . The stock carb has an idle jet located near the choke assemble, a hex brass screw that plugs up VERY easily. I understand you are on a tight budget but keep your eyes on this web site and you may be able to find a set of rear disc brakes ,
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/ . I have used them on my race car and buggies also . I think I have a 2 barrel Dellorto setup for blow thru turbo carbs with manifold that might work better than the progressive carb. Intake manifolds freezing in the winter is pretty common, next winter try ducting some hoses from under the pushrod tubes to your air cleaner . It will preheat the air and help with the freezing . Dual carbs with their short manifolds pretty much end it . Many guys run a low pressure electric fuel pump like a Facet with good results , https://www.ebay.com/itm/Facet-FEP42SV-Cube-Electric-Fuel-Pump-1-5-4-Psi-Includes-Clamps-Fittings-Filter/113687322653?epid=227100856&hash=item1a784ae01d:g:VGIAAOSwCyVcjDVi .Make sure you have a good vent on your fuel tank . Hope some of this might help , Mike
I have a MrGasket pump similar to that on there now. but since I am gonna turbo it next year, I will be upgrading pumps and the new one will require a regulator for sure with this carb. I know the ford guys run these carbs with the 2.3l and turbo's.

I know a lot of air cooled guys like the dellorto carbs. I set this carb up with the help of John from air cooled.net he knows them pretty well. The stock pic 34 was trash, I checked the air jet your talking about. The second carb I got a brazilian pic 34 had bad floats. Everyone I talked to about these carbs liked them but the first one I got was junk still have it. The new one from pierce manifolds works great, but I found out that sitting all winter the filters clogged up. blew the line out and put in new filters, now the pump is week but working.

I will keep a look out for the disk breaks want to upgrade to all disc later. Right now just trying to get it safe to run.

Jebchevelle
07-17-2019, 11:22 PM
So while I was in the hospital, ups, usps, and fedex was busy. I got a new re-pop fuel tank, new -8an fittings and so now the entire fuel system is new. and ready to be installed. I am installing a return fitting in the re-pop tank. old tank sat and rusted back out. got new engine/trans-mounts. new exhaust is on. thing is almost ready to roll N/A. it is slow but getting there, spending $40 bucks a month on it and that seems to be getting it closer then trying to save and buy the parts all at once.

Jebchevelle
08-12-2019, 05:43 AM
got to clean out the new tank, it has a protect-ant in it that has to be removed. was thinking acetone or vinegar.

Jebchevelle
09-08-2019, 09:46 PM
Well car did make one pass it ran a 18.65 at 72mph. I want to go 13's at least so it would take more boost then this little 1600cc could take lol. looking to do the subaru swap looking at a 2.0 jdm ej203 from a importer and thinking microsquirt to control it. then if I want to go faster later on the tdo4e turbo I got for the 1600cc will be a good fit since that is the turbo that comes on the 2.0l subaru engines. After talking to the local air cooled vw guys they got way more in their air cooled engines to go 12's then I can affored I thought a turbo and 7-8 psi Would get me there but they are saying no would need 12-14lbs boost and most say this 1600cc is only good to 8 in stock form with high rev springs and pump gas. I would need to run e-85 to go to 10-12lbs and that might be too much boost.

Jebchevelle
09-08-2019, 09:47 PM
I had not seen your posts , I could have helped . The stock carb has an idle jet located near the choke assemble, a hex brass screw that plugs up VERY easily. I understand you are on a tight budget but keep your eyes on this web site and you may be able to find a set of rear disc brakes ,
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/ . I have used them on my race car and buggies also . I think I have a 2 barrel Dellorto setup for blow thru turbo carbs with manifold that might work better than the progressive carb. Intake manifolds freezing in the winter is pretty common, next winter try ducting some hoses from under the pushrod tubes to your air cleaner . It will preheat the air and help with the freezing . Dual carbs with their short manifolds pretty much end it . Many guys run a low pressure electric fuel pump like a Facet with good results , https://www.ebay.com/itm/Facet-FEP42SV-Cube-Electric-Fuel-Pump-1-5-4-Psi-Includes-Clamps-Fittings-Filter/113687322653?epid=227100856&hash=item1a784ae01d:g:VGIAAOSwCyVcjDVi .Make sure you have a good vent on your fuel tank . Hope some of this might help , Mike
Any thoughts on my goals and how to reach them from my above post with an air cooled engine for under $1500. other then a subaru swap?

Jebchevelle
09-12-2019, 01:29 AM
well good and bad news for the air cooled bug. First did not do subaru swap as it was more then I figured. Second current 1600cc is low on compression in cyl #3 it is showing 90psi but goes up to 150psi if you put oil in it. other cyl. all show 120psi so engine needs rings min, so I ordered 88mm pistons and cyls the thick one's that slip fit at block and machine at heads to 90.5/92mm, I ordered nylon pin keepers as I have snap locks. I ordered new wheel bearings for both rears inner and outer plus seals and clips. looking at a new rear disc brake kit with my gm bolt pattern. only thing with disc is not finding a 12mm/7/16" studs. my lug nuts are 7/16" and don't wanna have to order 12mm nuts as I am using weld wheels that take special long shank nuts. Any way next thing I am looking at is either AA aftermarket heads with 40mm/35.5mm valves and dual springs. or get my heads fixed and milled to fit new jugs. After talking to the machine shop the AA heads are the cheaper route. They are $455. Machine shop wants $500. to fix the broken exhaust studs, mill out heads, new valves, new springs, and true up all surfaces. in the end my offer my stock dual port heads up on ebay or craigslist to try and offset cost of new heads.