: It can't be pigeon holed!

09-15-2014, 10:10 PM
I am going to drop this here because I just can't seam to find the right slot for it otherwise.
My latest creation is a Miata based car called an Exocet. Basically you pull the body off a Miata and drop what looks like your neighbor's playscape over the top of it, add some fiberglass to it and there you go!
Me being me I can't follow directions so I am going to use an LS-1/t-56/CTSV rear diff and then toss a supercharger at it. The whole damn thing should weigh under 1800 pounds wet and ready to go. If the engine comes out right it will be somewhere between 600 and 800 HP and that puts me between 2 and 3 pounds per HP power to weight.
The end game is to go do the Fireballrun Adventurally again. I was invited in 2012 and brought a 1990 Miata with a '99 Corvette LS-1 stuffed into it. We went from Ohio to Maine handing out flyers of missing kids and had a ball doing it. I got to play with Lambo's, Ferrari's, Porsche's, the Local Motors Rally Fighter, and a lot more very cool cars.
My baby was seen in the movie they shot of the run, was featured at the NYIAS as part of Mazda's 25th anniversary slide show, and got page 86 of the Feb '14 issue of Car Craft! Say what you want about a Miata, "Nadine" brought a lot of attention to missing children here in the USA!
So far I have ordered my new Race chassis from Exomotive and it is due on my garage floor any day, the engine is here along with the trans and rear diff, I had gauges custom built from Speedhut that include a GPS powered speedo and a Quad gauge to match, V-maxx Race Pack shocks, and a lot of other small parts.
More pics as the car comes together.....

09-15-2014, 10:13 PM
Ya got the talking part done..

09-18-2014, 08:08 AM
Ya got the talking part done..

I can back up the chat :rolleyes:

My wire harness is inbound now. I ordered an 8 circuit "Hot Rod" type as the car won need a lot of options. I would like to build out a dash for it but that will have to wait until the car is nearly assembled to see if it is even possible with the space provided. I wouldn't mind having heat in it even with the open cockpit design. I have seat heaters that are going into it either way...New England nights get chilly. My only other "Must have" is a radio... I gotta have my tunes!

09-19-2014, 08:27 PM
I picked p an LS-1 to T-56 SFI bell housing today for $225 shipped. It will allow me a bit more room in the trans tunnel of the Exocet.
Just for sharts and gaggles, when do I get permission to post up pics around here? Is there a number of posts I have to hit first?

10-06-2014, 12:17 PM
New chassis is stuck in Postal limbo... Bank Check never arrived to the builder and the bank has a 2 week hold on it before they will reissue it. In the mean time I have received the 8 circuit wire harness and I think it will work out well with what I have to do. I am thinking of selling off the LS1 to build/buy an LS3 crate motor. The LSX 376 with a 4.0 whipple will make 768hp with just a cam and injector change. Drop the size of the pulley from 4.75" to 4" and I will be well over my goal of 800HP, and the combo will be very reliable.

10-06-2014, 01:35 PM
Drugs are bad.

10-17-2014, 08:29 PM
Drugs??? I don't do drugs... I have lofty goals but they are not drug induced.
BTW, Car Craft just did the same build swapping only the cam/springs and injectors to produce these numbers. If there is enough snow to plow this winter the engine combo is very attainable for me.

10-18-2014, 04:53 PM
youre right down the street from me!...Naugatuck now..originally from Terryville

10-22-2014, 11:27 PM
Delivered the donor from my project to a young man in Richmond, Va last night.... round trip from/to CT in 22 hours. He paid my travel expenses and I made a couple bucks on the car. Best thing is this kid will learn more by tearing down the wreck than he could ever learn from a Haynes manual. Sometimes it's about paying it forward.....

11-17-2014, 02:29 PM
Worked out the tail lights for the car last night. Took a 69 Trans-Am/Firebird tail light and split the light box width wise. Used a piece of Aluminum sheet cut to fit and then glued it in with Ultra Grey RTV. Installed yellow 9" LED strips in the top halves for turn signals and a white 30" LED strip in the lower for park and brake lights. I have a circuit board coming that will cut voltage until the brake lights are needed and then the LED gets full power. Once it is all assembled my body guy will cut te rear panel so that only the two red strips show through with their stainless trim.
I have pics but so far I am not allowed to attach files.

11-18-2014, 07:02 PM
Dream world..

11-20-2014, 07:15 AM
Mine is more of a race car world, but enjoy all types of cars (especially ones that people do theirselves). Your build is sounding like it is a lot different than most others...your going to have to get us some pictures to enjoy. I'm going to agree with bondo92, it sounds like you have started a build that will never be finished (thus a dream). I've built cars for many years and have seen many times where someones' "dream" ended before it was real....DON'T LET THAT HAPPEN.

Matt Hill
11-20-2014, 07:25 AM
Attachments aren't allowed here. You'll need to remotely host your photos.

Why the weak CTS-V rear? On the CTS-V cars we remove them and put an 8.8" center section in their place along with stronger axles...

11-20-2014, 08:23 AM
Yep, you have to host your pics on Photobucket or somewhere and post them here.

11-20-2014, 08:29 AM
Dream world..

What's with the Negativity?

This isn't a pipe dream, I have had some projects that failed due to money issues, timing, marriage (Haven't we all?).... but the last car was a complete success and this one will be too. Need proof? Look up the Fe '14 issue of Car Craft. "Nadine" was on page 86. Can you say that about one of your cars?

I used the Ford 8.8 Cobra IRS diff on the last one. In fact, Ric at Boss Frog used my changes to his mount for the Cobra option his company now offers. I liked it and had another here when I began this project. The issue I have is with space. That big diff takes up the room I need to run the exhaust. I could use side exit pipes but This car will sit much lower than the stock Miata. That and I want the noise behind me. Using the GM diff means I can buy a stainless exhaust for it from Flyin' Miata and it will bolt on. They have built a lot more V-8 Miatas than me and know what fits without rubbing.

11-23-2014, 09:03 PM

Just a couple shots of the chassis and the gauges I am using....While you are at my bucket, check out the other folder on Nadine.

11-23-2014, 10:37 PM
Here you go

http://i1288.photobucket.com/albums/b487/comeier/Natalie%20build/Chassis1_zpse584aed6.jpg (http://s1288.photobucket.com/user/comeier/media/Natalie%20build/Chassis1_zpse584aed6.jpg.html)
http://i1288.photobucket.com/albums/b487/comeier/Natalie%20build/Chassis2_zps417748a3.jpg (http://s1288.photobucket.com/user/comeier/media/Natalie%20build/Chassis2_zps417748a3.jpg.html)
http://i1288.photobucket.com/albums/b487/comeier/Natalie%20build/diff_zps2a228fe2.jpg (http://s1288.photobucket.com/user/comeier/media/Natalie%20build/diff_zps2a228fe2.jpg.html)
http://i1288.photobucket.com/albums/b487/comeier/Natalie%20build/VeqaL7K_zps6a3f3013.jpg (http://s1288.photobucket.com/user/comeier/media/Natalie%20build/VeqaL7K_zps6a3f3013.jpg.html)

11-24-2014, 06:59 AM
Thanks for the help..... The black car is the Exomotive USA test mule. My chassis is the first one fro the company to have the bond in windshield and textured powder coated frame. The nose and hood have been redesigned fro the test mule's 2 piece to a one piece unit.

12-02-2014, 10:24 PM
Picked up a new sandblast cabinet today... cleaned up and painted the front hubs and spindles. Paint drying now. Lower A-arms will be a project for Wednesday and then I can assemble the front end again. New ball joints and bushings to make everything tight.
Thinking of grabbing a used oven to powder coat small parts on my own....hmmm

07-26-2015, 03:44 PM
Looks like it will be bad fast and fun as hell to drive. Keep us updated and congrats on doing something unusual.

07-26-2015, 08:17 PM
Damn that thing looks really effing fun! I want one! :)

01-07-2016, 09:22 AM
I have been tinkering away at this and have the entire front and rear suspension on the car. Tubular and adjustable control arms, Wilwood brakes are mounted, I even dropped the engine and trans in for a test placement to see how I am going to run fuel and brake lines. The radiator is test fit and I just need to get the tabs fab'd for it to go in permanently.
I have a wire harness and ECU coming with a tune to match the BTR cam in the LS1. Then I get to wire the lights and the RF ignition module.

01-07-2016, 09:46 AM
BTW, 35 pics at the Photobucket

01-07-2016, 10:04 AM
One of the replies asked about the Getrag vs 8.8 diff..... I used the Mustang Cobra 8.8 alloy diff on the other LS1 Miata and it presented challenges running the exhaust. In order to get by the diff I had to go under the center of the rear subframe. I needed to make spacers to raise the rear springs 3/4" or the exhaust would touch down on hard dips. Also the rear diff mount had to be changed as the T-bird iron 8.8 or 7.5 IRS is smaller externally. I made the changes to the mount and Boss Frog offered to buy my design. Since I didn't really reinvent the wheel on this I let them have the design and it is now part of their catalog.
My exhaust on this car will be 2 1/2" down pipes to a Y becoming 3" single pipe to the center in, dual end outlet muffler. A couple resonated tips should take the rasp out of the pipes.
I have to make a few changes to the floor to get the t-56 cross member installed but my nephew has offered his plasma cutter. If I drill the corners I should get some nice clean cuts.
I have the fuel system ready to go but have to finish the tank mounts. Time to fire up the lathe.
I have found a 48" metal break so the next step is to begin making the dash area so that I can hide some wires and mount the radio and heater box.... yes even open air cars need heat or the wife wont ride in it on cool summer nights. Heated seats can only do so much!

01-10-2016, 02:40 PM
Lucky for me the Miata uses a small bracket to hold the clutch tubing to the firewall and then has a flex hose go to the clutch slave cylinder. The hole is shaped to hold a hex the same size as the brake lines I am using so I am able to use two of these brackets for the front brake lines to the frame. I am going to drill and tap a hole in my tube frame for the brackets and my brake system will be complete and functional once I bleed the air from the lines. This weekend's project completed!

01-30-2016, 03:21 PM
I was able to get the clutch master cylinder mounted and connected to the pedal yesterday. The trick is that the Miata MC uses the same offset boltpattern as the pedal to firewall mount. The Stock MC is too small a diameter to push the GM style slave so I needed to use the Wilwood 3/4" bore MC. That has a mounting position of say 12 and 6 o'clock.
Lucky for me the Exocet has a very thick firewall behind the pedal box and I was able to just mark and drill new holes without using the mounting adapter that is sold in many of the V8 Miata conversion kits meaning I saved about $200 on this build. The only hiccup was I had to remove the pedal assembly and retap the clevis that attaches to the pedal arm from metric to 5/16x24 of the MC pushrod.
Now it is on to wiring the car and resealing the LS-1 after swapping in the new BTR cam and spring kit.

01-31-2016, 04:13 PM
What's with the Negativity?

Because yellowbullet...

Post some more pictures.


02-03-2016, 12:32 AM
I would love to but for some reason even following all of the directions laid out in the FAQ section I can't get to the part where I can post pics or attachments. This is even still shown as "May Not" on the "Posting Rules" at the bottom of all my pages while viewing. I have sent two messages to the site contact page to see if there is something I need to change but I have not received a reply.
I know it's a pain but I have a large file of pics in my photo bucket if you are interested in following that link.
Maybe an Admin can see this post and PM me a couple ideas.... sorry but I am much better with torches and hammers than I am computers ;-)

02-03-2016, 10:32 AM
You should contact Frank at The DriveShaft shop and have him make you a double CV joint driveshaft. I'm using one in my Cougar and it is amazingly smooth.


02-04-2016, 12:33 AM
DSS makes the axle shafts for these conversions. I am using the GM G-80 diff from a Caddy CTSV. V8Roadsters makes a kit to install it in the Miata rear sub frame utilizing the Miata uprights and hubs. The driveshaft is so short from the trans to the diff that standard ujoints are fine. That and with the diff being stationary the angle between the trans and diff never changes.
On the last car I used a Mustang Cobra IRS 8.8 and the size made it difficult to run the exhaust. With this set up I can run 2 1/2" pipes off the headers to a 3" single running back to a muffler that has an inlet in the center of the can and tips out the ends for the resonated tips. The car should have a healthy growl.

02-08-2016, 12:08 PM
The Brake Master and calipers have been mounted for a while. This weekend I got to tinkering with the lines themselves. The car is very open and has a lot of room to work. Since this is my second V8 Miata based car I know that it is going to fill up quick.
I was able to bend up the lines for the front brakes and the line from the master to the stock proportioning valve. I have a Wilwood proportioning valve as well but it is a one line in/one line out restrictor type valve. I am going to mount that in the cockpit close to the steering wheel so that I can adjust on the fly if I want to. I need to mount it and run the line from the stock prop valve to the adjustable one and then I can run back to the engine bay and down the frame to the rear "T" for the rear calipers.
Just a tip..... if you need to make a bend close to a flare fitting, install the nut and flare the line. Then slide the nut up to the flare and using a male air fitting clamped in a vice, bend the line around the fitting below the retaining ring. The u shaped grove keeps the line from kinking and if you slide the line as you bend you get a smooth transition to a 90* or better in a tight radius.

02-09-2016, 04:17 PM
Be sure to pop the diff vent cap off and stick 2 feet of vent hose on it a la the TSB they put out for them. The installed angle will have it puking all over your underside otherwise, ask me how I know.